bawater

Major water change - as much as 70-80% if u can. Then add carbon and run the tank for a week or 2. Pop in a skimmer. should be fine. There was no solid conclusion that its contaminated- if it was the algae stuff, then water change & carbon should clear it. Don't disturb bioballs at the moment.

Nope, No Monkey liquid or Magic liquid will help Hook on a protein skimmer and maybe look over your filtration.

It could be too late but maybe transferring to a new tank may help- that is the new tank should have clean aged saltwater(not newly mixed) - some sort of filtration or bubbling airline for water motion. A protein skimmer if possible. It will act as a quarantine. Meanwhile you will have to deal with your main tank's water. A major water change and running activated carbon would be a good idea. A protein skimmer would be a good choice equipment to add on, you don't need to spend thousands of $- something rated for your volume will be fine. You should stop using that algae killer product. You may want to also stop that magic thingy, there is no magic just better filtration. You can just use a dechorinator when you make up new salt water. Nothing wrong about the epsom salts if used correctly.

Hi matong, it could be any 1 or 2 or both. point 3(liver damage) is related to usage of No.2 If it is liver damage, there's nothing much you can do - even for humans. A) It would be best to stop the usage of your chemicals- 2-Chloro-4.5bis(ethylamino)-1,3,5-triazine is a component of an algae killer product (algae stopper 90) ? so far i only found it used in koi ponds-& it killed koi as well) There are other methods to stop algae which are more gentle and natural to your livestocks. 1,3,5 triazine is used as a disinfectant, industrial deodorant and biocide in water treatment. It is also used as a bleaching agent. If ingested can cause gastrointestinal or liver problems. B ) Aluminium sulphate? used in water treatment to remove colour and non-filterable matter in raw waters. Aluminium levels are limited in drinking Water Regulations. So if its tap water, the levels should be too low to cause anything....... BUT high levels will cause gastrointestinal symptoms and long term exposure in high levels will cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, rarely haemorrhagic gastritis, circulatory collapse and multi-organ failure. . Long term exposure may also lead to Alzheimer's disease.(although i don't think think this will matter to your situation). C) Magnesium sulphate? from Epsom salts???Any excess amounts are quickly expelled by the body,It can however create a problem with kidney disease and toxic reactions to high levels of magnesium, include muscle weakness, coma, hypertension, and confusion. It could be any reason- its like picking a lottery number, BUT you can narrow the range down. *At best you can try for a 30% water change a week for a month and stop using the algae treatment. *Use your water purifying powder for mixing water a few days before adding to the aquarium(age the water)- IF you add this directly into the aquarium. Stop using it for a while. * you may want to try running GAC(activated carbon) 1gram per gallon of water, change carbon after 3 days. Run for 1 week. That's about it at best, but no promise. There is no medicine and nothing to use for treatment except improve the environment its in. All the best

This thread is going on the edge of flaming. i would suggest that everyone take a step back. Ekia & typrobin i would suggest you do not assume the background nature of other members. This is why posts blow up. milky & iewnehz- the both of you answered your own questions in your own posts....maybe you forgot!. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...15entry319332 mid page. mod deepblue has already attempted to tone down the thread to no avail. ever since the octo incident ,we spend more time containing these and other issues then we do talking abt reefing, i would rather have a beer & watch my tank. i would advise all to take any personal vendetta out of SRC. As to the fate of the 2 threads, its up to admin to keep them.

This would generally refer to the home breeders who in freshwater will do it for the previous lou han and now most probably ST. - Yes it would be an offence if anyone bred at home and sold it in the forum without AVA approval. - we do try to patrol the buy/sell as often as possible and weed out commercial posts. sometimes things get thru but you need to know that you are responsible for the post and if need be the authorities will be directed to the offender. ppl who sell corals harvested from local waters / ppl who sell commercially without license. ppl who try to cover commercial sales with hobby sales. Yes it happens and they are deleted or moved to a locked thread.

for 1 month, yes they will die. but for 1 week is fine, to be safe -harvest the culture the day before u go,(this will be fine for 4days on its own)+ 3days more of starvation. i usually don't worry abt going away for 5 or 6 days. Keep a portion in a bottle in the fridge. And if u really want, keep another bottle on the shelf next to the running culture. So u get 3 chances to find at least 1 rotifer alive. The thing is- the more you spread live cultures around between reefers, the easier it is to get starter cultures. If u keep a bottle in the fridge(abt 6-8c)- these are the survival rates: 1-4 days 95% 4/7 days 85% 10 days 50% 14 days 30%

yup, some will be on the walls of the container too. abt 1/3 the size of newly hatched bbs.

i don't know with rotirich (even though i got a 2 year old bottle in the fridge), its yeast based and i find water quality issues with using it.(water spoils within 1 batch) and i have to change more water = more money for salt. currently i only use the phytoplankton concentrate from aquaz (pure nanno) and i can get a batch ready to harvest in 4 days. (to split into a few cultures maybe in 2-3days) for a 12ltr culture i use up abt a bottle($10) just over a month- at your volume that bottle most probably last u 4-6mths 1ml of paste will feed 1million rotifers per day. but i use the eye method, just tinge the water green and feed again when it clears everyday/every other day. (2-3 feedings and its ready). 2 mins per day for feeding and 10mins for harvest, that's all i spend on it. i mix half a teaspoon with new salt water in a 500ml drink bottle and leave in the fridge (and leave paste in freezer). use this bottle to feed the cultures for the week,this feed solution can also be used for tank feeding . That's how i can feed everything so fast. The diluted solution will keep for a week easily in the fridge. and the paste in the freezer can keep for a yr. my batches are in 4ltrs. and with the nanno i can reused back 50-70% of the old water after straining.(meaning a 30% water change every harvest). saving me in salt.

yup, if that's your tank salinity. although they are brackish in nature- they can be acclimated to full strength SW. you want cultures to run as near as possible to tank conditions so that you don't send them into shock and die when feeding.

open vial, empty into a petri dish or plastic cup, add 20ml water, leave for 24hrs. After 24hrs transfer to 250-500ml saltwater, add phyto- enough to tinge light green. Once phyto clear- tinge water 2nd time. After 2nd feeding clears, density will be dense enough to Transfer to bigger volume (your actual culture container 1 or 2 or 3 or 4ltrs). from then to infinity maintain your rotifer culture factory. you only need 1 to hatch and you will get a culture. (one vial should contain abt 6000 eggs,if you bought the smallest) Try to use pure nanno in culturing rotifers, it helps to keep the cultures cleaner. Easier to strain and feed to the tank.

both are very different. activated carbon can reduce or remove Inorganic Contaminants: (Organic Arsenic Complexes,Organic Chromium Complexes,Mercury (Hg+2)Inorganic, Organic Mercury Complexes) Organic Contaminants: (Benzene,Endrin,Lindane,Methoxychlor,dichloroethane,dichloroethylene, trichloroethane,Trihalomethanes (TTHMs),Toxaphene,Trichloroethylene, Para-dichlorobenzene,Color,Foaming Agents (MBAS),odor,some organic chemicals like trihalomethanes,pesticides,industrial solvents,polychlorinated biphenyls, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons and some aquarium medications) Carbon does not remove microbes, sodium, nitrates, fluoride and hardness. Lead and other heavy metals are only removed by very specific types of carbon. It is used in water treatment plants around the world for processing drinking water. You can use carbon once in a while to polish the water (run for a few days) or in small amounts for 2 weeks to a month. BTW - recommended aquarium usage is usually 1gram per gallon of water. Phosphate media -change when phosphate levels begin to rise. (which means the media is exhausted). It would be better not to fluidised your phosguard. just run it in a bag in a high flow area.

In actual fact, there are 4 groups of plankton classification by size and 6 groups by organisms but we only need to look at phyto & zoo in our tanks (because we also have other things to do as well ) 1) Not all corals are carnivores, it does depend on the corals you choose to keep. Herbivorous corals need phytoplankton for sure to survive.(and is not an option NOT to feed) If you want to keep these corals for any length of time - you HAVE to provide for them. 2)Carnivore corals will feed on zooplankton, and yes some will also take up phytoplankton. Phyto has been found in the gut of even hard corals (studies done on porites & digita) but inconclusive that it was being digested. Also the size of the zooplankton plays a major role - Maybe a bubble coral can catch a adult brineshrimp but a sps polyp sure can't. And a sps polyp can catch a rotifer......but not the bubble. Its like a zoo, you can't feed all the animals like tigers,elephants,penguins,parrots,polar bears dog food can you?. 3)Phytoplankton is a major food source for some soft corals, LPS,tube worms,sponges and gorgonians. It's not particularly useful for SPS corals, which are much more accepting of zooplankton.But Particle size matters. Reseach/reading on individual coral needs is important if you want the coral to survive.

This depends entirely on the composition of the media you use - not the reactor. You may just want to have a tub of alk supplement as standby - its easier to tweak alk levels without fussing with the reactor once you have set it. Alkalinity additives are not expensive anyway.(Go for powder/dry versions since you have such a high uptake) Always use the calcium and alkalinity of your aquarium water as your guide. If the levels drop over time, turn up your CO2. If the levels go too high, turn down your CO2. If you make big changes in the CO2 input rate, you may have to adjust the water input rate to keep the output pH in the 6.5-7.0 range. ozy - yup.(that's how a KR works)

kalk drips lower the risks of raising pH levels too high too fast. It will gradually raise pH so not to affect the tank inhabitants too much. A drip can run throughout the day or night- your preference. Just pouring in works - try to do it in the morning when pH is at the lowest and in small amounts. Not all at one go. oh! you are suppose to use the clear solution.

Roughly 1 teaspoon will raise the alkalinity in 150ltrs 1 dKH, if you use supermarket food grade - the purity will be less, and there may be some additional stuff inside that ends up in the tank but yes it works.

yup,superbuffer will do. Its a alkalinity supplement

No no no master no expert just making sense

kalk is calcium, it is a balance additive with a ratio of 1 calcium to 1 alk. if you dose on an empty tank - both parameters will be maintained or increased. but everybody has different calcification rates so you will find different results in loaded tanks. Calcium chloride is pure calcium and should not be used as a long term additive if you do not know what your initial levels are(you should use it as a booster) -because it is not balanced it may cause ionic imbalance if you do not keep track of your levels or do water changes or balance dose with alk. If you mix kalk with water(1 tsp to 1 gallon or 1tsp to 2ltr or whatever you wish) and get a pH of 12.4 - the mixture will have a saturation of 800ppm calcium. This only applies to the kalk mixture.(once diluted into the tank volume doesn't mean will raise your tank to 800ppm) Using vinegar is at your own risk (just like dosing vodka), the vinegar allows more kalk to dissolve(but i do not know the saturation levels) Food grade lime can be anywhere from 40%-60% purity (very rough as everybrand differs) With hard corals like sps - calcification takes up 2 carbonate to 1 calcium (and some magnesium amount which i can't remember off hand). This is why with most reefs, alk drops faster and needs to be tested and maintained. (& why most brands will have a stand alone alkalinity supplement) from my previous readings that i logged, a single sps(staghorn open hand size colony) can suck up to 12-14ppm calcium per 24hrs & more as it grows and gets bigger. I also take my tank's 24hr calcification rate so i know how much to dose daily/weekly and how long i can not dose(when i go away). with up to 4-5 sps colonies and lps i could still manage to keep calcium levels at 450ppm just with kalk and dosing alk as extra. beyond that......it becomes a chore to maintain calcium & you would be better off with a calc reactor. (readings were done by home test kits on my tank and are my opinion and i only use it as rough guidelines)

seachem makes iodine test kits too. But iodine test kits are not cheap and not the most accurate. although they give you a better understanding of where your levels roughly are. 0.2ppm-0.4ppm is a guideline to stay within, 0.6ppm is considered still safe. Try not to exceed these levels. Overdose of iodine is not a good thing and can turn toxic. It is needed in small amounts for soft corals and macro algae. elegance may do better on the sand bed as they come from lagoon environments with nutrient rich substrates.

i use spirulina used in frozen food mixture for fishes, instead of garlic. 10% inclusion. also use some in dog food mix,2-3% inclusion. Spirulina is mostly used as a additional food mix for fishes. marine or freshwater (a lot of discus breeders use it)- if u chk a lot of pellet or flake foods has a little included. DT is phytoplankton and fed directly to the tank.

overdose? by how much? by 10 days the phyto will have used up most of it, using it on your tank won't affect much parameters, at most ammonia & nitrate gets a few ppm higher for a short period - which should not affect a established tank.

dude, i go by impurities & price, not brand. Same as additives. very few are willing to provide u with the information as they use lower grade materials. So i stick with those who do reveal ingredients. i keep 4ltrs of carbon by aquaz on standby. u never know when u need it. Learnt it when they fumigated my area while i was culturing peppermint shrimps. Went thru almost 3 ltrs of carbon. (changing carbon every 48hrs on every tank, including reef)

There is activated carbon for air molecules & there is activated carbon for water molecules. They have different pore sizes. Also the inner rubber seal cap in the aquaz tub is more or less airtight,Means it has 2 barriers. Carbon's lifespan in general should be used for 7-10 days. after that all carbon will start to leech back and turn into bio-media for bacteria. Use it to polish the water(removing the yellowish tint in water), to remove medication and organics. The leechable phosphate should be printed on the better brands of carbon. If it isn't...or just says low, then you will be in for a shock. using 1gram per gallon of water is good enough.

An easier way, divide a packet of Live adult Brine Shrimp into 2 containers (those microwave kind). Put 1 drop of aquaz supreme blend phytoplankton and 1 drop of selcon into each container. Stir & keep 1 container in the fridge. Leave the other container outside for a minimum of 4 hrs (more if u have time). Strain BS with sieve(normal $1 plastic strainer from NTUC) and feed. Throw away enrichment water. (do not feed this water to the tank as the selcon will lower water quality) The BS kept in the fridge will last 2-3 days Live and enrich themselves during the time. When u want to feed- leave container outside for 2 hrs till it becomes room temp, strain & feed. Its very easy and takes abt 5mins preparation time. You will see that the intestinal tract of the Brineshrimp becomes a dark green/brownish colour- this means it is packed with a phyto/selcon mix from head to toe(since they have no toes...head to backside ) You can use this method to feed any fish as a treat once a week or month, as they will benefit from the omega/lipid/vitamins that the phyto hold. You may also find that they get less prone to whitespots if on a rotational food feeding. The supreme blend holds very high amounts of protein/omega acids/carbo/vitamins,EPA/DHA and lipids, together with selco with high fatty acids,you have most of the elements covered- it makes a powerful enrichment solution.