bawater

It was covered some time ago in this thread: sea cucumbers i also posted a id link- the one u see on a regular basis in LFS are Hypselodoris bullocki (a sponge eater) seaslug forum

no need, just put them in container & pop into fridge-no smell. i find leaving them in normal room temp fouls the water stinko. hmmmm- now have to go visit see see.

Toa Payoh blk 69 $2 same as 5 packs(or cubes i guess)? so much! Yet to find that Japan Ranchu place........can't seem to. the Normal $3 pack only has 20g of shrimps. remainder is abt 600g-700g+ of water. The 20g is standard- measured a few packs already. creetin- forgot to answer your second question. No, corals don't need adult brine shrimp for food. They are too big, even baby brine shrimp are too big in most cases. Unless u mean bubble,anemones- which can be fed market prawns & silverfish. Its not a requirement for fishes either- it is your choice as a treat. Frozen(Hikari) is just as good & cleaner.

BB right, i do keep in a container with the water it came with in the fridge. They last approz 3 days with some die off(maybe 10%-20%), but while u keep them u should be feeding them abt twice a day so u don't get so much dead. Don't feed solely, meaning use live BS as a treat maybe once a week or so. The adult ones u buy are high in aminos...but that's abt it so use them as a supplement.(& they not cheap so a pack everyday is very taxing) Cheapest is TYP69 @$2.50(everywhere else is $3) i now include an extra stage of gut loading-meaning i feed spirulina while they in the fridge. I also raise a small continous culture on the stuff & phyto(for fun cause culture amount to little). Before feeding- u will need to strain(using normal strainer from NTUC will do). This is because the water it comes with will be full of bacteria(same applies to hatching water). If the BS are grown in SG then they will have been fed bacteria that grow from chicken manure, if they came from Thailand they will have been on bacteria from decomposing vegetables. A rinse under tap water before feeding won't harm them.

by right should be 3rd week, after u seen the peaks in ammonia,nirite then nitrates then a 10% water change & ready to start stock slowly- with a time gap in-between new introductions to allow the filtration bacteria to compensate for the bioload. A few days to a week is enough. by left- play it by eye. depends on how well tank has established,amount of LR, how good filtration is,water parameters stable, if old water was used. the trick is to stock slowly.To play really safe,for a 2ft bioload can start with one small fish to keep 'N' cycle going.

ian-i think one should be enough. i'm only using one but may fit in another one,depends if i have space when i re-setup. i really think its personal since u already have MH's. Its recommended on most reef sites for supplement if using FL or PL only.

u can get a small bottle from almost every good LFS. Aquamart is one of the nearest to u. $6-$8. should last a few months.(A pinch goes a long way) Clementi has $20 medium size cans. These are all quite low grade eggs(abt 60% hatch rate),mainly from china. Buts its easily available here. In bulk u can also order from china- by 12kg bags or vietnam/laos in 1kg tins(min order 12tins). i just got some from brine shrimp direct USA-Grade A eggs. reasonably priced.

steady! so far i only tried mushrooms,everything else still too small except for a bubble & some leathers.

dun think so,if u watch they open within minutes(which they won't if it harmed them). i've had my CBS do that for as long as i can remember.& Its now half a palm size(not counting feelers). come to think of it,my CS does that too only that it runs along faster.

harlequin- here's some methods with pics http://www.eparc.com/news/EPARCV2I10.pdf by William Horst http://fishdomain.com/article_propagatingcolt_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml ://http://fishdomain.com/article_propa...t_conger.shtml by Brian conger

Just in case somebody is a LH here: U don't need a heater for room temp 30c-31c water- u only causing undue stress?(i was told that too when i collected discus until i read up on amazon & peru ambient temp.) No TanGo, chiller better for health especially on our tropical island,blood circulation,stress,alertness,luck & digestion-those feeder catfish very spiky.Running air-con 24/7 for your LH is not economical,u also need one to run MH's. MH the best for colour enhancement- results 10 times faster than LH laser. also there is a preference, 150W & 250W for the orange base fishes, & 400w for the blue & green based fishes. warning: Non of the above items increases KoK growth.

Not only PH buffer with Kalkwasser will cause a snow storm, PH buffer with any type of liquid calcium solution will do the same. but if u rinse the dosing bottle after use, u can re-use the same bottle but dosing on different days.

frozen brine are low in most areas but high in aminos,ok if not fed solely on its own as main diet & i only stick to Hikari- other brands just don't look good. i use live adult & gut load them for 4hrs on Spirulina powder. Dry foods have phosphates too, i cut back on it to lower phos levels. Anyway- if u have fish there will be phosphates from feeding. but Bloodworms are FW(again i use only Hikari)- so i don't use solely but as an additional dish. i think its the rotation of the foods that does the trick. Its actually quite cheap considering the amounts they eat- only takes the time to chop(almost mince) to consider. i don't like ginseng- i prefer a cup of coffee in the morning while i feed my fish.

so far i've only tried 3 brands of actinic FL (not counting the Azoo moon crap), phillips Aqualux Arcadia(current) so far same results. Actinic 03 (420 nanometers)

thanks ian, gotta get myself one to try. thanks ong for the address.

i feed Fish dry pellets as supplement,mainly only for breakfast(its a blue can-i think Doromarine & also tetra bits-1 can last a yr)-sometimes they go without,sometimes a cube of frozen brine shrimp, Main diet dinner staple consist of a daily rotation of frozen foods: frz brine shrimp/live adult brine shrimp/mysis/chopped silverfish/chopped squid/chopped prawns/frozen bloodworms & sometimes chopped fresh mussles(all very cheap from NTUC,a pack cost $2 or $3 can last over 2mths frozen & fed in small amounts).weekend afternoon snacks consist of a piece of lettuce/cucumber or nori. i try to cover as many amino acids as i can.Fed on this diet Marine whitspot clears within 4-7days(without any garlic). 4yrs & a total of 3 whitespot outbreak,never had ick or any other. saves me medication money!!hee what u choose to feed is entirely your choice, i just think a variety makes for a happy fish- if they happy they don't get sick. even a rotation of dry & one type of frozen food does good. Warning!!-those pellets for good KoK growth won't work for your clownfish or tang reason being too much hormones in them.!!

i second that. its just a temporary illusion. Anything that swims faster than the SH will get to the food first.Sh will stalk their prey for a while...before eating it. by temporary, i mean maybe u will watch the SH starve over a period 6-8mths in a community tank.

once u add fish & start stocking , all those bugs will be gone. Those on the glass most probably amphipods/copepods/tintinnids- no worries,in fact very desired. The worms sort of thing could be- ciliates or other protozoans,also no a big worry except for viewing pleasures. All of them would have been hitchikers of the LR. u could start stocking with very low levels- maybe a single fish at first.

he owns a business, & wants bulk- what reason u figure! so if u do see those blocks u know where/whom. jeez the mods are fast! explains why the breeding forum so empty even though there are recent dated posts. a post on every thread & mannners are...............hmmmmmm seems kinda familiar. Have a look at singnet or yahoo.sg classifieds & u get an idea.

RRP-recommended retail price dodo- but if u include the freight charges to your US$31 -assuming just the phosguard (weighing 1kg of freight),won't it come to the same. If u can get it from Europe or canada(big al's online)- freight is cheaper. just checked petmart yest. & purigen cost $26 for 150g. scrap that though off my list!.

Tanzy explan the T numbers already so i won't dwell on it.(the higher the numbers the thicker the tubes) T5 tubes are not avail in SG yet, and only 2ft sizes are currently available in KL. Tanzy- soz !i'm new to MH, will my 150w+36wPL do for 2ft depth & softies? Ian- sorry i got another question- i intend to use those submerged lighting for my actinic tube- did u change the tube yourself? the light usually comes with a redish tropical tube- was it a simple matter of just unscrewing the end caps? i think it was CoralSun 20000k right?- its not blue & neither is it actinic 03. it has a higher blue spectrum than 10,000k or 17,000k for depth penetration. If u want florescence still better to go for pure actinic 03.(try to find this on the box packaging)- the reason i mention keong seong was cause she knows what kinda light she's selling- they are the JBJ agent for SG.(if there's a cheaper tube with the same effect, she'll recommend u that)

depends what blue u using ian, i came across a Azoo FL which is just blue(blue moon)- this is really for viewing only-even if it says good for corals within 12" of the tube its not.(i tried it & it blew in 3mths) Aquatechnic-could mean that its for personal viewing at night & a single PL is enough. i think tanzy touched on the subject oredi abt it somewhere. Actually your tube seems that kind of light blue-if i'm not wrong actinic 03 u won't that notice much till u switch off the main lights & everything glows. The tube has a darkish blue hue.(well the ones i've used over the years were anyway) Another factor is cost- actinics are not cheap(if i remember,tubes are not cheap ard $50 for the 4ft range) i think i paid ard $60- i got a few 4ft & 3ft tubes diff brands so i can't remember oredi. Don't know abt PL, cause i stick to FL for their results. Chk keong seong@havelock for their FL range (actinic). Even their phillips blue moon has that effect(they using that in their coral holding tank) i'm currently using Arcadia. PS: off the subject here> your tank has no bracing with LR all the way to the top & water level near the rim, is that safe- u have no problems?

i have a question on light for corals, i have aquired a 150w MH with a Arcadia AQI 10,000k bulb(double ended) for a upcoming setup 4x2x2 with 3ft sump. It will run with my currrent 4x 36w PL 10,000k+ a single 4ft FL actinic 03. the casing of the PL is quite slim(abt 11-12cm wide), going to mount it towards the frontish of the tank so MH light gets thru(MH will be mounted 12" from the surface to allow ample air flow-less heat) Actinic will be in a waterproof case mounted below bracings. It will resemble the part where the reef ends & sand flats start so LR & corals will be place in the MH zone(abt 2.5ft of the tank). the remainder will be a DSB & open swimming space(lit by the actinic & PL).(will change landscape if i find another MH cheap) will run- 6x fan set(those for sale in LFS) with a chiller on standby-depending on the final temp at midday. actinic will run abt 15hrs(08000-2300hrs),4 PL will run 10hrs(1200-2200hrs),MH will run 8hrs(1300-2100hrs),maybe 6hrs depending on coral reactions in growth. i will only concentrate on softies, various mushrooms/xenia/star polyps/sea mats etc. with hard skeleton corals like a bubble or 2,maybe sea fans(these are growing quite well under the current 4x PL+ 2x FL, i get abt 1cm per 60 days on the softies). i only got this when i stopped skimming & high particulate in the water column- supplemented feedings of live phyto,rotifiers,live BS,pinch of crush flake. Izit enough light for softies u think?i am looking for lush growth-something like an overgrown forrest of green star polyps/sea mats

i don't think just by keeping corals or fishes is the end-or the holocaust of the oceans, SW is relatively new & reefs only within the last 20yrs of so. u know how old the goldfish is?(which was a mutated carp in the first place). The indo reefs will be the first to go- they kill whole patches of reefs just looking for sea-cucumbers to sell as food.Not to mention dynamite/cyanide fishing that is on an economical scale that only their gov can help. i agree with tanzy & robe, the aquatic trade is only a scratch to nature(colletors need to be more responsible). Do u know that the amazon river is depleted by overfishing for the FW trade? Do u know how degraded Tioman reefs have become over the years due to tourist/Divers This is the reason why we should not only have succesful tanks, but we should have reproductive tanks- corals frags,fish,shrimps etc.The knowledge is very very limited on this area as many species have only recently started being studied. This is the area the hobby should be headed> helping to preserve the oceans what if u could farm clams at home? u ever think of that? or even the common clownfish? There is really no point in keeping a tank where u have to keep replacing livestock & corals every few months cause they keep dying.That is pure arrogance as the knowledge is available- might as well stick to keeping man made creatures like goldfish/guppies/parrotfishes/LH. i really can't complain on the LH trend, it has pushed equipment prices to all time lows(some anyway). Tank prices are unbeliveable & still dropping. Hikari products are carried almost everywhere now, even frozen silverfish are available now in packs from LFS(although got LH pic on packing). i can get live adult BS nowadays from most LFS. + when the trend dies, there will be a lot a lot of 2nd tanks & equipment going cheap i just wished ppl would use MH & chillers for their LH tanks!!!. Leave the LH Fish release problem to AVA. Yeh yeh! more LH!. To each his own fish hmmmm i wonder why we talking LH on a marine forum?

there was a quite good range of marine in the last one, & i think SW is picking up fast- not only here but around the world so Hopefully see more this year- ,mvii i think i saw some 4ft & 5ft last time, keep your fingers cross for a 6ft(leave them your contact for them to quote u a price if u do spot it). just have to wait & see.