roidan

top view of the clam tank.... i worry about the mantles of the clams touching each other...although they dun sting each other..but i dun want them to block each other's mantles from the light......

in that case you can bubble ozone through those sanders woodstone in the tank itself since no fishes, corals or inverts liao.....faster and more effective... the reason why we push it through skimmer is because we do not want excess ozone to leak into the main tank system... but since you are vacating all life forms, then u can effectively nuke the whole tank water with ozone injection directly

hehe..sure... my gf stays your area....can go the farms there...lol

bro, u mean you already gotten fish loss from isopods ah...they really eat up the fishes?

er...coz the questions were asked here in my thread mah, so i post here lor....hehehe anyway, i got tons of useful material on clams...but like i told you, if post in my thread abit wasted, so hope you faster come out with a clam section in the forum......i have lots of materials as stickys..hehe hehe...src wun explode one lah....so efficiently run by you.... hehe....

can't really recall....had them few months back...brought them over to the clam tank recently.... should be either t95 or those pasir ris farms very easy to find, quite common...

very difficult to pinpoint a time that cycling is over... depending on how much dying materials are there in the rocks now... use test kits....but as long as the water is smelly...dun bother using test kit, means definitely not ready yet.. when the water doesn't smell and water is quite clear and transparent, then you use test kit to confirm it...

looking at his own reflection

very cute fellows

my 2 6-liners patrolling

good article here...hehe http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm

an article in the net... < There are two forms of phosphate: a) inorganic organic. Unfortunately, the majority of aquarium hobbyists kits marketed for testing phosphate cannot discern between inorganic and organic forms of phosphate. Inorganic phosphate "could" be added to a synthetic seawater formulation. If that 'working solution' was destined only for use in a closed re-circulating system (salt water aquarium) that housed certain specific specimens that required some select form or forms of phosphate, or in an aquarium that was suffering from under lighting. Inorganic phosphate can be added to a synthetic sea water preparation that is used in an aquarium that is under-lit. Phosphate foments the growth of some algae. In a marine aquarium that is properly lit, the inclusion of phosphate will result in hair algae, "plating" and/or "ring around the tank" with heavy deep green alga. In most marine aquatic applications, this is undesirable. Healthy salt water aquariums use the best marine salts. These salts are low in phosphates and borate. Water changes reduce accumulated waste ions, like phosphate low and replenish essential elements that are metabolized by the biological filter as well as your captive marine animals. Organic phosphate is a naturally occurring by-product of a biologically active marine aquarium. This form of phosphate should be the greatest concern of marine fish and reef aquarium keepers. The best way to reduce the natural buildup of organic phosphate and other waste ions is through routine water changes, utilizing a high quality marine salt, that is void of organic phosphate. Regular water changes will reduce the buildup of waste ions and replenish major, minor and trace elements that are consumed by the metabolic intake of animals on display. Some elements are also depleted by the activity of a biological filter, chemical filtration and/or protein skimming. It is essential to use a marine salt that is formulated without phosphates. A quality marine salt will contain all elements found in natural sea water (NSW), at levels comparable found in nature. Many marine salts claim to contain all elements or dozens of trace elements found in seawater. The fact is that most marine salts are basic mixtures of major or bulk salts. Some add a few low cost minor ions. Most rely on impurities as a form of 'trace elements' to make their packaging and advertising claims, colorable. These trace impurities are described as 'ions in a free form', and do not stay in solution. >

there will always be trace amounts that will not be picked up by the test kits that will allow algae to grow... my phosphates also low but algae still growing...may be other factors.... and there are certain issues about organic and inorganic phosphates that testkits only can detect only 1 type of phosphates...this issue i really not sure...maybe experts on phosphates can give more info

wa...saw this since early back last year...still got ah... seems nice...but the wattage abit uncommon though...175w..hehe but the brand is good...hehehe

really heng suay.... last time i use 1x36 on those fern types also turn white very fast....then i scared of those fern types liao...maybe bro planetg got a more accomodating fern....hehe but there are many reasons why macroalgae turn asexual....lighting only one of the reasons, nutrient levels, iron levels, phosphate levels....and others..like overcrowding....yes...some will turn white when they feel overcrowded hehe sometimes they may be so efficient that no more nutrients left to absorb in the system and thus they start to die as not enough to support the algae mass.... so frequent pruning is important in finicky types so as to let them have growing space as well as enough nutrients.... they are almost as interesting as fishes themselves in a passive kind of way....

yeah..have to trial and error...anyway...endcaps are very cheap... or u just drill a hole to connect an airtube to the endcap and then use a airvalve to control the opening lor....till u get the sweet spot

maybe ian can help you.. but from what i experienced..i drilled the single hole bigger and the up and down stopped...

hehe.. then pray that nicer clams come along lor...hehehe..so that i can boot out some

yeah..very hot..but using the MH 150W for macroalgae will be the best...nitrates CONFIRM near zero due to the prolific algae growth... i know the heat problems of MH, so i opted something less hot... 3x54W T5 sunpro...hehe

won't have alot for you to fill up...maybe just a small handful batch to see if the algae does well in your sump before taking more next time...hehehe PM me lor

yeah...24 hour photoperiod can help..but this phenomenon may mean that your algae is always on the verge of giving up and crashing and you salvage the situation by turning the lights back on... i may not be correct, but from this trend, the macroalgae may be hinting that it needs more light, otherwise it will crash....which in turn hints that the amount of light you give it during the day cycle is not enough, thats why it is only happy when you extend the lighting hours... i would suggest you increase your lights to double the current wattage and see if there is a change, i believe there would be an improvement what lights you using for your algae now?

about 30odd for 1000ml

the big clam is a squamosa

i think the clam behind is a crocea

petmart din open today, and wanted to buy carbon, so ended up buying this rowacarbon instead of chemipure (my usual carbon), very good quality carbon....took a bit of rinsing and dumped into my sump... reminds me of the old days when those cheap carbon will hiss when you rinse it...this one also hiss very loud....hehe but somehow that reminds me that i din really hear any hissing sound when i used chemipure...how come ah..