roidan

have been moving my stuff over to the sump of the new tank to monitor any signs of relocatings stress before i put them into the main tank....in case any one of them suffer, i can easily pick them out again meanwhile, they seem to like the T5s which they are directly under.....here are some pics..enjoy

then maybe u have to isolate the rock and try to get the mantis out...

He is refering to UV light to sterilise the water i believe... if that is the case, UV light is useful when the tank has an ich outbreak...but it only kill the ich freefloating in the water, but at least it contains ich to a certain extent and give the fishes a chance to fight the ich.... under normal circumstances, UV light actually disrupts the natural cycle of the reef whereby many organisms are dependent on the free floating plankton or phytoplankton or watever teeny weeny stuff in the water, the UV will just kill all the good stuff and the bad stuff... if sterilization is the key issue here, UV is less effective than ozone.. I am a supporter for ozone sterilization..but then again...more complicated issues like ORP/redox levels are involved

have been using DSB in my 2 foot tank and 2 foot sump set up...no problems with that so far...

PL and T5 ballast are totally different..the most u can is to reuse the hood..all the rest..have to buy again

our dear sponsor edmund is allowing me to change the blueplus to sunpro... thread close... 3 cheers for edmund

sorry to hear about the loss..actually i was about to make a funny comment in response to Hon's remark...but...i think i better not rub salt to your loss... cheer up bro....

anyone has extra to sell? hehe or anyone wants to change to a 54w blueplus ati tube? i have one spare...bought 2 from edmund, end up using 1 only....prefer to change with ati sunpro

no id?

terry: the joy of doing it yourself and coming face to face with those giga worms is........PRICELESS...

lucky yours is 5cm long.....haha.. if u really KS, u put in freshwater for some time...then put in saltwater for some time, then put back in freshwater...do it at intervals....if the pests can tahan all these and stay in their hole. they deserve the SURVIVAL award actually to most, worms are quite ok and are even part of the group of beneficial stuff that help to stir your sandbed....but i am wary of some worms that might attack clams...so i rather kill all the good and bad in the rocks and then seed the rocks with better quality rocks from CF....

if u are sure of which hole the mantis shrimp is in...what most people would do is to get the rock out for a while and then inject some water into the hole to get the shrimp crawling out....either freshwater or very high salinity water (>1.030) into the hole...in that case die offs from other parts of the rocks is minimal.... some even suggest pouring hot water into the hole of the mantis

i dropped the rocks not to get them out..but coz i freaked out..hahaha if 20 minutes nothing come out..should be clear of pests liao..actually hor...the moment u dip the rock into the freshwater...u should move the rock around to see any traces of worms poking their body out of the hole..then either pull them out and engage in a tug of war or use pincers... while u are doing that, i recommend you to wear gloves....

yeah...when i got the rocks..i dipped them for awhile in freshwater, and little mantis shrimps and worms come out of the holes....never mind the die offs...part of the cycling process anyway...and i rather kill everything in there then to risk any livestock or corals getting harmed by them.... those worms..u will never imagine how long a worm can stay in a small rock....i kept dropping the rocks whenever i see the worms crawl out..they are about 1 cm wide and very very long....and over 1 foot long... another way is to hypersalinity dip..meaning dip the rocks in a solution of 1.030 ..those pest will come running out also... i did it the hyposalinity way, meaning not saltwater at all...hehe

damsels are notorious for being territorial...maybe u can try to catch it out....but once u have rockworks in place, quite difficult...so remember next time, dont add anything into the main tank that you might regret..hehe

it is about 2 cm from the apex of the cone to the base....looks like trochus snail...but then the banding on the cone doesnt look like trochus leh..anyone can help id?

another pic

need identification of this snail..found it in the sump of my old tank..but i did not add anything remotely looking like this into it intentionally....is it a harmful snail or not? before i bring it into my new tank i would like to ask

just did a salifert test on nitrate, did the medium range comparison and it was about 10ppm.....and i double check with the low range...was 100/10= 10ppm...so should be roughly correct... hmm..assuming nitrites is already 0.25ppm....and current nitrates is 10ppm... i dun think the 0.25ppm nitrites would make the final nitrates count to more than 25 ppm right? any bros here more familiar with the nitrites to nitrates conversion?

yeah...flame scallops not easy to keep..even if u feed DT, they dun seem to last long also....

nitrite levels yesterday was 0.50 ppm....this morning tested 0.25ppm.... hurray!!

yeah..i got all the branches from there....never mind lah...i dun do steps...just make do with what i have now lor...hehe.. in fact i think the slabs or rocks are 16/kg whereas the branches are 18/kg