roidan

nice...buy from where?

haha...i am sure Bwilly has lobang for *adult* stuff....whereas flubber jie has lobang for more *general* stuff..hehe

yeah...not only chio but also have a way with the local lfs scene...hehe my idol

yeah..i wondered that too before i got my 1262 for my return pump...wanted to try suprema.or even mega or megaplus...sure power one... the foot print of the pump is so much smaller than the eheim series

http://www.thereefweb.com/ozone.htm Removing excess ozone: Whether you use a skimmer or a reactor, all effluent (the clean water coming out of the skimmer or reactor) should be carbon filtered. This removes excess ozone before the water returns to the tank. In most tanks this is probably more of a precaution than necessity. Since ozone is so unstable, it has a very short life, especially when turbulently mixed with water containing organic material. Most, if not all, of the ozone will be consumed in the reactions occurring in the skimmer or reactor. Nevertheless, carbon filtration is an advisable precaution. You should also consider carbon filtering the air that comes out of the skimmer or reactor because inhaling excess ozone can be harmful to your health. (You can smell ozone if excess is escaping. It has a slightly metallic smell many people compare to bleach. The metallic smell you experience when using electric power tools, especially power drills, is ozone.) If you smell ozone near your sump, you should carbon filter the air output

well, just to be safe, whether you want to use carbon or not...just place the section where ozone is used as far away from livestock as possible...so that natural dissipation can take place before any excess radicals?/ozone can get to them better be safe than sorry...but another thing to note is that most ozonizers for aquarium may not be producing so much ozone, that's why most can get away without putting carbon even... unless you are using an industrial size ozonizer

Here are some quotes i cut and paste about carbon use with ozonizers... "For the rest of us hobbyists that do not have access to bromine free artificial seawater, we must make sure that all water which comes into contact with ozone has to pass through a carbon post filter before returning to the display tank. Carbon will remove secondary oxidants from ozone contact which otherwise would wipe out your tank." http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...ozonizer+carbon "I feel that it is important to make sure that you run the effluent over carbon. You don't know what free radicals you may be letting loose in your tank otherwise. I'm not really sure how much impact it'll really have on planktonic life, since I'm not too convinced that the stuff that runs through your skimmer survives real well anyway. Half of it probably ends up in the skimmate. Half chopped by the pump etc... Now, granted, algae scrubbers/refugiums and other low tech methods of improving nutrient export are available, but properly used, I feel that ozone is a plus. Definitely use an air drier, an ORP monitor/controller, and only run it through a skimmer or reactor with carbon filtration of the outflow. My two cents." http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...ozonizer+carbon "Went to a fish store over the weekend and saw this guy has ozone runing in his tank. He has it going into this towe with biobals in it at it is kept at 3 psi pressure. From here the water goes into another cylinder that is full of carbon and as it goes thru it it eventually goes into the sump----> tank. He tells me the first chanber with the bioballs is to spread the water thin and saturate it with ozone while the other chamber with the carbon media is to remove it completely before it goes to the tank so it doesn't damage the inhabitants or the fish" http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...ozonizer+carbon Well, what they say may be wrong..but if i ever use ozone..i definitely put carbon everywhere i can..LOL..kiasu

well, i may be wrong..but from my own interpretation...i feel that ozone is used in a specified chamber...eg...a section of a sump...ie incorporated into a skimmer....and the ozone reaction takes place in the skimmer bubble chamber....and the water outlet from the skimmer passes through carbon before going to other places in the tank... because what if the outlet of the skimmer is so close to the tank or some part of the sump where there are some livestock or organisms? the excess ozone may affect other chambers where it is not supposed to go in the first place.....of coz if the dosing of ozone is small....it will dissipate very fast..but what if the dosing is high and the dissipation is not fast enough and the ozone gets to the livestock..thats why the carbon, whether place as airfilter to protect us or place as waterfilter at the outlet stage to protect the living stuff in the tank is a guarantee against accidental overdosing and poisoning when the ozone flows to other parts of the tank before dissipation

both will also be selling around the same price...just that make sure you get the real McCoy..hehe

yeah...similar to your berlin...i am using the sicce extrema...maybe the extrema is just the suitable pump to drive alot of venturi skimmers....go go extrema...hehe

I am happy with my skimmate.....$70 worth...hehe

in my experience..it is not easy to keep turtle weed for a few months....somehow will turn white also....AT has the same experience if i am not wrong

the draining feature not very high tech mah...give me a dremel tool and i can make any collection cup with that feature..hehehe.. but it sure is a good skimmer in other aspects

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/Fish.htm "The coloration of scopas tangs is highly variable. It incorporates shades of gray, brown, yellow and white. Some specimens can be solid yellow, while others solid black! The black variants are sometimes sold as Z. rostratum, the black tang. The genuine black tang is a more expensive fish with limited distribution. It differs from the scopas in having a longer snout and a greenish tinge that runs along the base of the dorsal fin. There are reports of interspecific hybridization, which may explain the appearance of black scopas tangs." Just wanna make sure you guys buy a true black tang and not a pure black scopas tang

before you guys go into ozoniser...highly recommend to get orp meter to monitor your ozone to avoid overdose....it may kill off your whole tank and do more bad than good.... and remember to make sure the ozonised water passes through active carbon to get rid of excess ozone before return to tank...

The rocks were cured in those huge toyogo tubs long before the tank came and the additional rocks were cured from coral farm....in any case, i waited till ammonia and nitrites were 0 before i added those tangs.... I knew nitrates would be a problem and that's why i cured the rocks before the tank came and brought over the rocks from my old tank into the sump as well as seeded the sand in my sump with sand from my old tank... I tested for nitrates everyday....it never went above 10PPM using salifert and <12.5 using Tetra since its the banding limit on the Tetra test kit... If there wasn't enough *natural matured tank algae* for the powder to graze leading to its demise, I accept this reasoning....but i tried with nori, and macroalgae and all the other feeds that i posted in the thread..the other fishes were eating...corals were opening big and healthy.... So I can't accept if someone say that my nitrates were too high (unless you guys feel that 10ppm is dangerously high for the livestock) I know that 0ppm is desirable....but in my own amateurish judgement from my 2 year amateur-reefing, I think this level is sustainable for reasonable livestock and coral health.... In any case, i tend to believe that coral health would decline first, followed by fishes....nonetheless, i still choose to kiasu and test nitrates everyday....

u mean like sunblock lotion? lets R&D an ICH-Bloc loction...sure become millionaires one...hehe

thats why it mentioned about the parasites that are already deeply entrenched into the fish body...the external ones will explode with contact with freshwater from osmotic pressure but its the internal ones that are fatal.....

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j.../marineich.html one of the better articles i have read about ich so far

some articles say that freshwater dip will not eradicate the root of the white spot problem..it is so deep in the fish that will not be affected by dip or even gradual hyposalinty.....it can only relieve the fish abit but the main job has to be done by the fish itself to fight the ich "Freshwater dips are generally ineffective in the treatment of marine "Ich" infestations. Trophonts burrow deeply into the epithelium where they are generally protected from external influences. Colorni (1985) found that even after 18 hours in freshwater, infected fish still have trophonts attached in the same positions as they had held before the freshwater treatment. The trophonts later detached and completed their life cycle as normal. Trophonts penetrate the epithelium which causes a loss in osmoregulatory capability. Infected fish are less able to cope with a sudden and drastic change in the ionic concentration of their environment. This is likely to cause further stress to the fish which will impair their ability to acquire immunity to the parasite. "

the first notable guy with such a unique perspective to this hobby...

now that's detailed..hehe..

how small is small for the market prawn...how many mm by how many mm and how thin u slice the prawn? hehe

yeah...if can go through 6 weeks without ich...then confirm no problem liao... by then we can all pop a toast

congrats...but i think u better hold that statement till a few weeks later