roidan

yeah...pros and cons... but i suggest if u find really sunlight fueling nuisance algae next time...u can change the window curtain...the translucent curtain you can change to the type that is also white/cream based but opaque as they may have a silvery side towards the outside, leaving you to see the cream/white colour from your hall...and yet retain the nice floral curtain layer currently

great to place at the window side...your chiller can blow the hot air out easily...but u may have the direct/indirect sunlight coming in to fuel nuisance algae....

anyway, for the benefit of those who wanna find tempered glass, here are some places u can try some may be just retailers. some may not cater to us end users as they may just provide for large projects...use your logic to scan through and pick out the more highly possible ones...i think 3M is out... 1. 3M Technologies (S) Pte Ltd (65) 64548611 / 65522113 2. Abdeen Glass Merchant (65) 62932358 / 62972443 3. API (A&G) Int'l Pte Ltd (65) 64821785 / 64821539 4. API Glass Pte Ltd (65) 64821785 / 64821539 5. Armorshield Marketing (S) Pte Ltd (65) 67414997 / 67417531 6. Asahi Glass S'pore Pte Ltd (65) 62735656 / 62730885 7. Best Safety-Glass Mfg (S) Pte Ltd (65) 62612251 / 62641620 8. Glasia Pte Ltd (65) 62624214 / 62624204 9. GMX Associates Pte Ltd (65) 67747077 / 67747377 10. Haeuei Ent (65) 67411996 / 67411950 11. Jestac Tdg Pte Ltd (65) 62888290 / 62873252 12. Kario Glass Construction (65) 67470168 / 62735311 13. Llumar Window Films Pte Ltd (65) 67490106 / 67490819 14. Morris Schaefer Asia Pacific Pte Ltd (65) 62850056 / 62856885 15. Nansin (1964) Pte Ltd (65) 65323533 / 65325988 16. Newwin Trade & Engrg Pte Ltd (65) 62996288 / 62935744 17. Peng Ji Glass Merchant (65) 64822886 / 64822884 18. S P Glazier (65) 67420276 / 67421991 19. Singapore Safety Glass Pte Ltd (65) 68615530 / 68616165 20. Soon Fong Aluminium Co Pte Ltd (65) 67774455 / 67795183 21. Sungard Services Pte Ltd (65) 63820086 / 62845242 22. Sun-Gard Services Pte Ltd (65) 63820086 / 62845242 23. Sun-X Film Pte Ltd (65) 62801318 / 62845242 24. Sun-X Sun Control Pte Ltd (65) 62947876 / 62942641 25. Tan Kim Seng Aluminium Co 26. Wah Heng Glass Holdings Pte Ltd (65) 62641144 / 62651674 27. Welmark Int'l Pte Ltd (65) 62583288 / 62597711 28. Woon Meng Glass Works (65) 64450039 / 64440135 29. Yuan Guang Bldg Materials Pte Ltd (65) 68620265 / 68621661 30. Yuen Mai Glass Merchant Pte Ltd

wah..only 2 tempering makers in singapore? so all the contractors get their tempered glass from these 2 ah....since overseas tempered makers have to factor in other business costs.... duopoly ..hehe imagine those skyscrapers using tons of glass...wow..big business

should be ok... coz mine are within 1.5ft radius from each other's dens to the left side of the tank... so 4ft space should be no problem..

Tempered Glass DEFINITIONS In the production of flat glass the molten silica-based mix is cooled slowly under carefully controlled conditions. This annealing procedure removes undesirable stresses from the glass. Cooling occurs in an annealing "lehr"; hence, the glass is termed "annealed" or "ordinary" glass. Annealed glass which has been heated to a temperature near its softening point and forced to cool rapidly under carefully controlled conditions is described as "heat-treated glass." The heat treating process produces highly desirable conditions of induced stress (described below) which result in additional strength, resistance to thermal stress, and impact resistance. Heat-treated glasses are classified as either fully tempered or heat strengthened. According to Federal Specification DD-G-1403B, fully tempered glass must have a surface compression of 10,000 psi or more or an edge compression of 9,700 psi or more. Heat-strength glass must have a surface compression between 3,500 and 10,000 psi, or an edge compression between 5,500 and 9,700 psi. The fracture characteristics of heat- strengthened glass vary widely from very much like annealed glass near the 3,500 psi level to similar to fully tempered glass at the 10,000 psi level. HEAT TREATMENT PRINCIPLE Glass can fracture when its surfaces or edges are placed into tension. Under these conditions inherent surface or edge fissures may propagate into visible cracks. The basic principle employed in the heat treating process is to create an initial condition of surface and edge compression. This condition is achieved by first heating the glass, then cooling the surfaces rapidly. This leaves the center glass thickness relatively hot compared to the surfaces. As the center thickness then cools, it forces the surfaces and edges into compression. Wind pressure, missile impact, thermal stresses or other applied loads must first overcome this compression before there is any possibility of fracture. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES In the "heat-treatment" process the key procedure is application of a rapid air quench immediately upon withdrawal of hot (approx. 1200 ° F) glass from the "tempering furnace." The immediate and sustained application of an air quench produces the temper. As air direction against hot glass from arrays of fixed, reciprocation or rotating blast nozzles, it is important to extract heat uniformly from both surfaces (uneven heat extraction may produce bow or warp) and to sustain the quench long enough to prevent reheating of the glass surfaces from the still-hot glass core. A quenched condition becomes stable when the glass is reduced to a temperature of approximately 400-600 ° F. There are two principal manufacturing methods for producing heat-treated glass. One process heat treats the glass in a horizontal position while the second method moves the glass through the furnace in a vertical position with each light of glass held by metal tongs. STRENGTH Under wind pressure, tempered glass is approximately four times as strong as annealed glass. It resists breakage by small missiles traveling approximately twice as fast as missiles which break annealed glass. Tempered glass is also able to resist temperature differences (200 ° F - 300 ° F) which would cause annealed glass to crack. Annealed Glass vs Tempered Glass Typical Breaking Stress (large light 60 sec. load) 6,000 psi vs 24,000 psi Typical Impact Velocity Causing Fracture (1/4" light 5 gm missile, impact normal to surface 30 ft/sec vs 60 ft/sec SAFETY Fully tempered glass is used in many applications because of its safety characteristics. Safety comes from strength and from a unique fracture pattern. Strength, which effectively resists wind pressure and impact, provides safety in many applications. When fully tempered glass breaks the glass fractures into small, relatively harmless fragments. This phenomenon called "dicing," markedly reduces the likelihood of injury to people as there are no jagged edges or sharp shards. Fully tempered glass is a safety glazing material when manufactured to meet the requirements of the ANSI Z97.1 Standard and Federal Standard CPSC 16 CFR 1201. Federal Standard CPSC 16 CFR 1201, as well as state and local codes, require safety glazing material where the glazing might reasonably be exposed to human impact. This includes doors, tub and shower enclosures, side lights, and certain windows. Applicable building codes should be checked for specific information and requirements.

oh yeah..i think glass once tempered...can't be cut... i think the process is to cut the glass to your desired size first...then go through the process of tempering if u think of cutting already tempered glass, then very troublesome, it has to be untempered. To do this it has to be heated in a furnace to close to the melting point and then cooled. Trying to cut or saw tempered will result in it breaking.

but anyway, i also used a 150W DE pendant before on my 2ft last time and i dun think the glass was UV coated, also nothing died within days or months..hehe but i guess i saw those expensive reef MHs tend to have UV-coated, UV-filter kind of words on their glass, so i began to think it could have a difference... sigh....so all this UV coating is just bullshit....haha...gee...i fell for such marketing phrases... so i gather here that the essence is just to have any glass to block the DE bulb...and for added safety, tempered glass is stronger and will not break with sharp edges

wah..informative then again, why can't they coat our DE bulbs with glass instead of quartz just like the SE bulbs? since i think the glass coating on the SE bulbs are cheaper than the quartz on the DE? why dun they save money and save our troubles at the same time? any reason why they chose to use quartz for DE and just glass coating on SE bulbs? er...then i think this would be great news for hon right? i mean, he need not order from germany his giesemann glass for his 250W pendants already...coz they are probably just normal tempered glass anyway..hehe He can cut tempered glass the same shape as the giesemann glass? since the UV coating or not will not effect his corals? i think he is going to save a lot of money and can treat you alot of makan liao.... ok, hon, go and get your tempered glass from the glasscutters..forget about germany

yeah.. since some bros like you are having no problems using normal tempered glass on their reef tanks, at least those who wanna diy can just look for any glass maker to cut out suitable size of tempered glass for their projects... tempered glass, just like normal glass, cut UV to some degree, but it's a matter of how much, especially when the wattage of the DE bulb gets from 150 to 250, the amount of radiation from the more harmful spectrum of the UV gets higher... so, while it's great to know from your usage that normal tempered glass is able to block 250W DE's harmful radiation through, i am still quite afraid for the long term health of the corals....in fact they may colour up more in response of self blocking of the harmful UV radation, but i dare not take the chance of a 250W DE with a normal tempered glass in a shallow tank... in a tank of reasonable depth, probably the radiation would have been much lower having gone through the water and especially for the sand bed corals, they probably wun mind

From IceCap: Any glass will cut out most of the UV. Tempered glass is safer as it's much less likely to shatter. Temper glass with UV A+B block is the best you can get, especially if you have a situation where the light from the pendant is directly visible to you or a child looking up at the tank. You may want to post this on the main board or search the topic as I know this periodically gets passionately discussed. BTW, contrary to what you'd think, there's more UV danger while the lamps are coming up to full brightness than when firing at full blast. Andy icecap feels that tempered glass is the best you can get, when its coated with UV blocking properties.... so this does not make all tempered glass automatically blocking the whole UV spectrum...unless going through another process to make it coated tempered glass just strengthens the glass against shatttering and even if it does, the broken glass tends not to have sharp edges but does nothing much against blocking the whole UV spectrum, it's just like normal glass....unless it's coated with anti-UV / UV-blocking then it starts to radically cut down the UV spectrum, good and bad

i think bwilly is referring to those black plastic/rubber stuff that you paste on the edges of your bumpers so that you dun get your bumpers directly scratching against the car park walls...hehe but in a way spoils the neat look of the car...but then...cannot have everything...dun put...then risk the bumper leaving marks on the wall if not careful...put...then not neat looking...see which one more important to the individual driver

all glass will block UV, but to varying degrees mah oh...i always tot uv glass has a special UV blocking coating on it.. i read some museum art pieces use expensive UV glass that blocks almost all of the UV spectrum to ensure that the art pieces do not face discoloration from sunlight or museum internal lighting.. hmm....in that case, probably those museums could have just used normal tempered glass and save the money..hehe.. never mind...they are well funded what i am afraid is that because of the presence of UVA, UVB and UVC, normal tempered glass only filters them to some degree, whereas in proper uv-filter/block glass, the filtering is of a higher degree and thus preventing the socalled harmful UV spectrum. but since the corals are doing well, i guess the corals can tahan some degree of the spectrum without ill effects

anyway, nowadays the bumper either front or back, nice is nice lah..but then really lacks the oooomph of bumpers from earlier years where the bumpers are usually some kinda black hard rubber/plastic kinda material....knock alittle here and there also nothing will happen... nowadays the bumpers, really are cosmetic bumpers...use hand push hard also can make a small depression

gotten used to having that handbrake on the left ...so kinda miss it...although you are right...it's not something in constant use while the vehicle is on the move..hehe it's like you open the door...sit in the car, and want to release something by hand..instead now have to step on the footpark brake to release the parking brake....really total change from use hand to use leg... just like drive auto car. still have habit to rest left hand on the auto gear level, like in manual days.... habits die hard

yeah...i agree with this statement... anyway, i feel lost without a handbrake now that i have to get used to a foot parking brake on the extreme left above where the left foot is supposed to rest in a automatic transmission car... i dun see any advantages with a foot parking brake...i want my handbrake back

better hurry to get the SRC car decals out....so that dun get bullied by aggressive reefers driving on the expressway dun wanna get killed by "friendly fire"

haha..nope...not going to fall for it...hahaa anyway, the blackcap looks like orchid dottyback with a oh bak kak on the head and none of the aggression