Morpheous

Black poma angel at ah beng Cute baby sized flagfin angel at irene. blue tangs everywhere at pasir ris

Won't advise one. Many cases of them catches fire (those with the pump on the filter box).

Any pbt or majestic angel spotted?

i assume that you dun use macro algae or denitrator? How efficient would you rate biohome with a rating of 10? Whats ur nitrate level now after using them?

Any interesting Angels or Tangs at Ah beng ?

Your fish are healthy. How often is the husbandry?

I was told that AM may have phil shipment tmr. Any fish updates at pasir ris?

I m more interested in your powder blue Upz for u

I guess yours is a FOWLR system... You can hypo your water, it helps to get rid of ich. but will not get red of velvet. Copper is effective only at certain level... too much kills, too little no effect, but is the best way to cure it. How long has this condition been? Usually velvet kills fish quick.

When i was at the JK branch last sat, one of the staff told me Sri Lanka shipment. Dunno what is the fishlist.

The design of your overflow pipe is too short, very hard to prevent the break of siphon. Due to the pipe size and fast flow rate, the water in your 2" tube have sucked dry before the water stops. (Short reaction time for the water to slow down). Below is how mine looked like (Tank is 1.5 feet height), Note on the difference between the cutoff level and end of the pipe. u can take reference with the proportion of different cut off point and decide on a safety factor. I have tried on a smaller scale before but failed, therefore I would advise you to make a bigger one as it is easier to prevent siphon break. My opinion: 1)For your 2" tube, buy another cap to fit on the top, and use a hole saw to make a opening for the pipe or extend it to the bottom of the tank. The pad will weaken over time and your tube will drop. Not fail proof. 2) The cap has to be removed when the overflow is running, else it will suck all the water in your 2" tube.

sounds reasonable to me. I drop mine to hypo within 2 hrs for new fishes, and they are still doing good (Although i admit i stresses them, so dun follow me.) But if you ever need to transfer the fish to a tank of higher salinity, do it real slow.

I could not explain why the siphon will not break when flexi hose is in the water, but what i can think of now is that the amount of water volume in the 2" PVC insufficient therefore before the siphon stops, the water inside has run dry thus causing the siphon to break. I assume you have replaced the end cap with one with hole on the highlighted green pipe. What I would do is to play/raise the 3rd "U" on the right so that siphon will stop early before it runs dry, but based on your design, you will have limited allowance for any adjustments. The post #5 will offer you more flexibility. Probably you can post a pic of your current overflow tube? We have many DIY Gurus that can offer advise here

Why is that when the suck in pipe in the 2" get lengthen, it can't suck the water. And when I shorten it nearly to the surface of the water, it is ok. See my revised diagram. Is this workable? Take a hose, fill with water(thumbs in both end), put one in the aquarium, and the other to a pail. If both end are at same level, the siphon won't start. If you lower the pail end, u will find that siphon starts and it gets faster flow rate is faster as you lower it even more. You are actually replicating this. bro, is it the magic fall on the first U portion (The reverse U. There are 3 U)? Based on what your explanation, I extend the U reservoir portion, which make it longer. Is that Ok? Yup, the "U" portion determines whether the siphon will break or not. Based on your design, because of the long length of the tube after the "U" portion, it slows down the flow rate tremendously (Needs a lot of pressure to push the water up the pipe). Therefore, the water pressure will either be not enough or it is too little. The main tank water level will need to rise tremendously to match your pump flowrate, resulting in a overflow. The design is only a graphical representation, but the actual design requires a lot of trail and error, and there should be significant difference in the length of the left tube of the "U" portion compared to the right and looked something like below. After the design is successful, do use PVC glue to seal the joints. In my opinion, the valve is not required.

Bro, lengthen the "U" portion. You initial could not start cause the suction pipe is of the same level as the "U" portion. There must be height difference else the siphon will not start. The logic is the same as filling a hose with water, put one end in the tank, and the other to a pail. Water starts running only when the pail end of the hose is lower than the one in the tank.The greater the difference, the suction gets stronger.

Hi Bro, Your design will not restart as the siphon will break at the level of your pipe in your tank. I have add additional items required in your picture. You can also include netting as seen in the bottom right of the picture to prevent small fish being sucked down to your sump. Good Luck! Overflow.bmp

I see some Reefers using biohome product. Maybe they can offer their opinion about the efficiency of the product cultivating nitrate eating bacteria. Regardless, denitrator or biohome, u need time to cultivate these nitrate eating bacteria. Algae and mangrooves can reduce nitrate. Thus refugium or scrubber are also another alternative.

Is it a magnetic or electronic ballast? Technically yes, but will burn out your bulb fast.

Yea, luck is very impt with regals. Mine refused to feed at LFS, but feed the moment its in my tank. It likes to swim upside down (not swim bladder prob, simply playful and entertaining). Anyone encounter this also? Personally i feel that the smaller ones (3.5"~4.5") are easier to entice their appetite.

Thanks bros. I could not resist and came back with one Lifestocks as of 11pm @ AM JK: Yellow bellied mislined pattern near its eye, quite nice i feel. PBTs Blue tang (s) blue face juv (s) oreidi changed colour at fins and eyes Majestic angel (s)

Hi bro, Spotted a yellow bellied with bazziare pattern near the eyes at AM JK. Not sure if its feeding though

Any PBT at Aquamarine JK?

IMO, it is not recommended to do large changes, especially with self made sea water. I am more worried abt the ionic imbalance as well as PH differences and the impurities introduced. More frequent water changes will solve the problem. I doubt it will do much harm to the bacteria, else the we will see a spike in ammonia/nitrite/nitrate instead of diluting it during every water change. As Quoted from website: Ammonia poisoning: The damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies. Nitrite poisoning: Also known as 'brown blood disease' because the blood turns brown from a increase of methemoglobin. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than changing the color of the blood. It renders the blood unable to carry oxygen, and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is ample oxygen present in the water. So when it comes to tank cycling, do it without a live fish regardless how hardy it is. When adding new fish, do it slow. Unless u are very hardworking to do daily water changes and measurements

Stevenkoh08, It is recommended to make the fish safe for the water instead. It is obvious that parasite and bacteria are present your water. Stop buying any life stock at the moment. Fallow the tank at least a month and take this opportunity to get your water parameter right. (Ammonia,Nitrite - these are killers at low dosage, & Nitrate. API test kits are ok.). Let the parasite (Ick or velvet - These are the usual white spots we will see) run through its cycle. Without a host, it will die off. Get a quarantine tank and cure (Hypo or copper depending whether its ick or velvet) your fishes before introducing it back to the main tank. In future, do the same for all new fishes. As to your cycling question (if there are already fishes to the system), yes it is recommended to change water if you do find ammonia and nitrite detectable (Toxic!). There are many debates of not doing water changes for fear that it may slow down the cycling time, but for what I know (correct me if i am wrong), most of the beneficial bacteria will settle for surfaces eg. life rocks, glass surfaces etc... Only a minority of them are in the water column, thus it won't impact the cycle process. But when introducing new fishes, do it slow. Good Luck!

I like your FR Chaetofuge. Keep your ideas running! I used to have my plate recovered from slight torn tissues, but not sure about yours as it is in a bad condition. But nothing is impossible More pictures ....