yazid

I just bought the fine sand at Petmart. 10kg for S$10.00. It is almost like dust. I dunno whether I'm the last one to buy the 2 pack. Check it out.

I saw this guidelines from Premium Aquatics. The wattage is more for the penetration of depth. Most tank are less than 2 feet. 2x150W 6500K (SPS and Clams loves the yellow tint) and probably 2x VHO actinics will erase off the yellow tint. This combination will definitely be enough for those having mix SPS, Clams and other soft corals that needs medium lighting. Unless you're keeping all SPS and Clams. Put the SPS and clams nearer to the light. Here's an excerpt from the website. Some basic guidelines for Metal Halide One halide bulb will light a 2 foot tank space with direct light. You can run one halide on 3 foot tank, the outer parts are considered indirect but still very powerful. Wattage depends on the corals and tank depth. 175watt works very well for shallow tanks 20" or less, mixed reef corals and sps and clams when placed higher in the tank. 250watt works very well for tanks up to 30" deep, mixed reef and more concentration on sps and clams. 400watt works very well for tanks up to 48" deep and is usually used for dedicated SPS and clam tanks. The higher the Kelvin rating (ex: 65K, 10K, 12K) the more blue the bulb will have in it. The 5500-6500K bulbs have a warm white/yellow color. SPS and clams prefer this spectrum since they are shallow water animals. The yellow tint is not always preferred by the hobbyist though. Supplementing with blue actinics helps curve this problem. The 10K Ushio/Hamilton bulbs are crisp white. Works great for just about any coral. They can run with or without actinics, but actinics are recommended. The 10K Blueline, 10K coralife and 12K Sunburst have more blue tint. They work very well without actinics or with them. Some even supplement with white VHO or PC's. You do loose some intensity (brightness) with these higher kelvin/blue bulbs, except Ushio/Hamilton.

Since I have no frag to trade. I'm willing to buy a frag. Anyone selling a frag yet? I'll be first in the list to buy. Unless you want trade with a rare blastomussa.

I don't see why the need to drag yourself to carry seawater and pay for the cost of a taxi. Too much hard work. Why not use salt? Less hardwork. I use a 1000l/h power head inside my 20g plastic bucket with the air tube thus providing aeration at the same time. Put 20g of water + declorinator, after 3 mins add 3 cup of Instant ocean salts. Instant Ocean salt dissolve in a minute (no residue). Within 5 minutes your water is ready. Connect a hose to the powerhead into your sump. That's it. Buying saltwater takes more than 5 mins. If you include your hard work to carry the water and a taxi cab. It will cost more. And you can only carry limited water. Try to do this every week. Like what Tanzy says, you have control over what you put in your tank.

It is going to be difficult to compare now. The overflow panel is painted black and is against the wall thus would not be able to see through from the other open end. With the black silicon, it is even worse. Basically, there is no light at the other end. It would be easier to see if it is not fix yet. The closeup camera shots I took. Basically the camera touches the glass to shoot less than half an inch Blastomusa in the middle of the tank. 1 feet away. And the 1 inch Anemonia majano in the middle of the tank. No morphing, concave view, blurring and the camera is able to focus on the subject. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forums/index.php...8049f380b20bc6e Camera: Canon Powershot A40 Zoom: 7.5 (Optical + Digital)

My brother in-law use to make the chiller for the seafood restaurant at Tanah Merah Country Club. He is a maintenance guy. Initially he thought he could make that for me but after I view the chiller it looks like an air-con with compressor outside the restaurant and the probe which is made of copper in the tank. It is 1HP and is huge and noisy too.

I have mention it that I got it from Raymond@Aquamart, Paya lebar. Raymond is the boss.

If it is S$34 per sq ft than for a 5by2 + 5by2 + 2by2 is only 24 sq ft of sapphire. Total is S$816 plus another non sapphire 2by2, 5by2 base, glue, overflow glass, 3xdrill hole, man hours, delivery... $1100 that's cost price to me. It is worth it. Your glass manufacturer should be cheap already unless he wants to jack up his profit.

I even DIY my new sump and refugium thinking that I will pay too much to get other people to do it. And it is more satisfying and fun that way to make a small tank. I don't think he will give me that price anymore unless I told him the tank is broke, which he will not believe anyway.

I thought at that time I was cheated. Paying so much for a custom made 5 feet tank. My friend got his custom made 4 feet tank for only $500 at Lor Halus. At that time I dunno it was starphire when Raymond from Aquamart told me. At that time I don't believe him. But because he is my father good old friend I just pay (just sold my house 2 years back). When AT mention that if you look closely at the glass and you won't get dizzy than I remember what Raymond told me about this special glass. I then compare with my friend tank and that is the BIG difference. After that I felt good paying $1100 for the tank. It is 12mm. Of course I ended buying the Aquamedic Reef 500 System ($500), 2 Eheim 1060 (2x$150), 8 bag of sand, 4x10K VHO, 2xActinic, 6xReflectors, etc together with the tank. The total is hard to swallow. AT, you have to come and see to believe. Probably he charge me more for the reef 500 and PH. Even a 4 feet MH pendant light (2x150W 10K DE and 2xActinics) from Taiwan initially cost $1000 and I got it for $650 after pestering him for 6 months. Last 2 stock that's why. After all these years, only now I believe when Raymond says he gives me a "special price" because of my father. I even get discount when I buy other stuff from him.

That's cheap. My tank alone 5x2x2 cost $1100 with starphire glass on 3 sides. Include overflow, delivery and plumbing to my 2 Eheim 1060. For that price, I think it is normal glass.

Yeah.. I remember when I was young (no reclamation yet that time). I used to catch clownfish, copperband butterfly and batfish off Changi beach. Those were the days. Now all have gone! Batfish I thought they are picky eaters. Special diet? I'll try Tanzy method with the epoxy.

Looks like this Copperband Butterfly doesn't help at all. Not interested in Aiptasia. This Butterfly looks like it is tank raised. It even take food like other fish! I have nuke the Aiptasia in the picture with kalkwasser 2 times it collapse and comes back up again. The small ones does go away after nuking except for this stubborn one. Any other method before I introduce Raccoon Butterfly.

FYI. Lor Halus selling at $20.

I was browsing this web site on TECO Chillers. http://www.marine-monsters.com/front/produ...ts/chiller.html TECO chiller Noise Level for 280/680 model is 42 db. TECO feature says super quiet operation. A small remark at the bottom. *Points of Reference (measured in dBA or decibels): 0 The softest sound a person can hear with normal hearing / 10 normal breathing / 20 whispering at 5 feet / 30 soft whisper / 50 rainfall / 60 normal conversation / 110 shouting in ear / 120 thunder The noise could be heard everywhere at midnight!

Is it Laguna Power Jet Series. I think it is submersible type.

Thanks. That's the article that gives me the explanation. Trying to locate that link. It is the chart that I'm looking for.

Blastomussa is a fairly rare species. Well I guess I got a good hitchhiker. Hope it spreads and cover the whole rock. It can also be frag for propagation. Check this out. http://www.reefcorner.com/SpecimenSheets/b...blastomussa.htm

You guys are right it is a pest. Here a picture how it spreads. Anemonia Majano http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank.html And it will sting all corals. Beautiful and deadly. Luckily I post this up. Now not only I got problem with Aiptasia now a new one pops out. After this I going to set up a group call the "The Reef Pest Buster"

Isn't rock anemone aka Aiptasia? This one looks different. The tentacles is rounder and greenish in color. Thanks for the info.

No SPS yet but getting ready for it soon. 1)Reef size: 60 x 24 x 24 2)No. of MH. Type and Wattage: 1x OSRAM 150W MH DE 10K & 1x150W VENTURE MH DE 10K, 2xActinics (will be upgrading soon to higher wattage) 3) DSB removed from main tank and moving to refugium in February. 4)Sump: Sump with Aquamedic Reef 500 system (Mechanical, wet/dry, skimmer). Will be moving to biological Sump/Refugium in February. 5)Skimmer (Brand and Model): Will still be using the Reef 500 Skimmer module 6)Calcium Reactor (Brand and Model): Will be DIY soon. 7)PH levels: 8.3 8)Alk levels: ~8-9dkh 9)Calcium levels: 440ppm 10)Chiller (HP and Brand) : TECO TW6 (RA680) 11)Total System (Water exchange/circulation rate per hour): 2xEheim 1060. Approx 5000 l/hr. Thinking of IWAKI. Additional 60l/min powerhead for water circulation. Additional Comments :

It seems it looks like a norm for a bubble to throw out brown strands of goo. Probably it is not zooxanthellae and probably it is a waste product. I have been observing my bubble and it keeps doing that once a day an hour before the night light kicks in. There are no signs of bleaching.

Another one hitchiker. Still an inch. Is this an anemone?

Found this thing growing at some rock. Use to be tiny but now it is slightly bigger. Use to be one green blob now more green tentacles and hairy too. It looks like one of Morgan green acros without the branches but still small. Here is a photo of it. Any ID

Saw this article, it can happen to any of us for no reason... http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/20...bie/default.asp Enjoy reading.