subxero

Hi Bro, You can try to use cable tie instead. I've tried hose clip before, they then to rust after a while

Bro rhinomax, do you have a sump too? You need to take these extra volume into consideration too.

First I off the return pump. Then I pump out dirt from my main tank first, follow by sump tank. Total about 10%. After than I pump in new salt water mix to the sump then start the return pump. Last time I try to lower temperature of the new salt mix before I pump in. But nowadays.... I don't

In your drawer? Vaseline petroleum jelly? Thanks bro happy, maybe I'll check out some dive shop, fishing shop and RD to see they have any. Lots of shopping for some lubricant..

I'm not good at IDing too.. don't even know what are the names of some corals in my tank. These are some of the places where I take reference from.. http://www.orafarm.com/corals.html http://www.aquacon.com/sps.html http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/categ.cfm?pcatid=597

As bro Reefaholic mentioned orange monti plate is easier to start with. If you are interested, I can frag a piece for you to try

IMO, an ozone generator is the most effective to get the ORP reading up. However, it is best to connect it a controller because too high a very can kill off everything in the tank. There is another saying that we should not control the ORP in our water. It represent "tank health". A large drop in ORP meant that something is wrong with the water (For example, something died in the tank) If anyone is interested to get more info, http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-05/rhf/index.php

Sorry bro jevis, borrow your thread for a while.. need to ask bro happy something Bro happy, I find that the lid is quite tight to twist and turn. Not sure if it is due to pressure build-up in the CR, or the o-ring which prevent leakage that increase the friction. I'm not very strong leh, any tricks to open it easily?

I must agree with you. Its a good habit to keep records , so we can trace back to check if anything is "out of range". Understand the situation/problem, and try to find a solution.. Isn't that what our teachers teaches us in school

Just curious, last compartment is usually where our return pumps are.. Isn't water flow in that area quite strong too?

You're welcome I'm still learning too, do correct me if I'm quoting the wrong information Thanks

You are referring to me Instead of having a few controllers/monitors.. This toy enable you to plug everything into 1 computer. I like the part where you can download data onto your PC and it generates a graph. Good for lazy people

No problem bro jervis.. Just sharing what I've gone through. Wasted money buying some not so useful things , but I guess its the process of learning. By they way, I'm still learning Better still ask them to deliver to you when they have stock for the CR. I'm impressed with your review on the Aquatronica controller. Now I'm considering if I should get one too.

Ha Ha.. bro jervis, thats the reason I sold off my AM CR. The price of their special probe is really The recommended amount of Mg Pro is 10% of your CR media, on top of the media. I can't control where I want the Mg Pro to be, because media in my Deltec CR keeps circulating and they become a "mixture" (It is a lot more "violent" that AM CR) I've tried SeaChem, TM and salifert. IMO, I find that Tropic Marin bio-Mg is more effective. I do agree its a bit more costly, not sure if its due to its concentration as compared to those brands I've used before. There are some reefers who tried epsom salt and getting good results too. I'm using PF501, the smallest version . Although the manual recommend something like 8 to 10hrs a day during light-on period, I'm running it 24hrs a day. The reason could be we usually get the higher pH during light-on period, the CR output will try to bring pH down to prevent large pH swing which stressed the livestocks in our tank. I think 2hrs of running may be insufficient, but since our setup is different so you have to try before you know.

You mean aquatronica ph probe is of different diameter? Is it about the same diameter as American Marine pH probe? I'm using that probe for my deltec CR. I was also told that Rowalith C+ contains Mg, but I think it is not enough to sustain our Mg requirement. I need to use Mg Pro to maintain. Before the "maintaining part", I use Tropic Marin bio-Mg to bring it up first I'm using both C+ and Mg Pro in the same CR

IMO, I think the the inverted cap is to prevent water ripple on the surface which affect the level sensor. The level in the cup should give a more stable level, hence more stable feedback to the controller.

They are still admiring your setup. Give them some time to drool first

I believe some sponsor here is willing to ship the product to you.

This is my opinion, in nature, full polyp extension usually occur in the dark (at night). Not sure the reason, but it could be due to planktons are "more active" in the dark. In our tank, we usually feed when the light is on, and some coral may have acclimatised to this timing. Hence, you see polyp extended when light is on. Other parameter such as sudden change in water conditions, lightings, etc also affect polyp extension too. This is what I've observed from my SPS tank, not sure about LPS and softies because I've not tried them before. Some of the label on the additives also recommend us to dose when lights are off.

I think its normal.. usually they feed in the dark.

The toy uses RS-232 to connect to the PC (ACQ 220)? Does the basic kit come with the USB connector (ACQ 221)?

Thanks Ping

Hi Bro, 4kg is a bit too little. Calculate the total amount of water you have in the tank and sump, and look at the packaging on the salt. It should give you a rough idea how much salt you need to purchase. It is better to get more salt, as you'll need them for your future water change. I try to keep the sg between 1.023 - 1.025. Hope this gives you a better picture

Do sps take acrtipod too? I thought they only take Rotifeast.

yo bro Ian.. not adding more frags?