honkit

Bump. RBTA left - make me an offer via whatsapp 81869375.

All fishes sold - thank you for the support and helping me find them new homes. Left - 1 blue tip bright red bubble tip anemone (you can make me an offer) Contact me at 8186 9375

Thanks for the support to my buyers. Livestock left: 1) 5 yellow chromis 2) 1 purple tang 3) 1 blue tip bright red bubble tip anemone Will post equipment for sale after livestock has been cleared

Purple tang still available

Anemone video WhatsApp Video 2022-04-24 at 10.33.57 AM.mp4

Closing down my tank as I am preparing to work abroad in the near future for a couple of years. Whatsapp me at 81869375. Livestock: 1) One pair of true percula clownfish - $100 2) One rarely seen blue tip red bubble tip anemone - $150 (the female clownfish is hosting in it) 3) One Purple tang - $150 4) Six lemon chromis - $5 each 5) One aiptasia eating filefish - $15 (good for polishing off pesky aiptasia and mojano anemones and also takes pellets) 6) One spotted mandarin fish - $10 7) One regal blue tang (3 inches) - $30 8) One sea urchin - free (great algae eater) Dry goods will be next after the livestock have been sold

4th week now with the Zeovit system running. Colours are not truly great yet so hang on - hopefully will be nice enough for a pic or two just after CNY

Looking for an RBM frag. PM me or whatsapp me at 8186-9375. Thanks!

Hi friends, I am remodeling my tank display from an SPS dominant one (90%) to a mixed reef tank (50% will still be sps corals) and with a new look, I have also embarked on using the Zeovit system. The last time I used the full zeovit system was 12 years ago! I recently started with the Basic 4 namely Zeolite stones, Zeobak bacteria, Zeostart 3 carbon source and Sponge Power for coral food. That’s it - no other additives will be dosed until corals are fully adapted and growing well over the next 3-4 months at which time I will consider using Coral Booster and Flatworm Stop. Will share progress as time goes by.

Check with Jun Kai at Iwarna.

Follow the bottle's instructions on the label. The balls do not totally dissolve hence replace every fortnight.

Highly effective in reducing nutrients and upping water clarity. Replace every two weeks.

I prefer having a shallow sand bed due to aesthetic reasons. Also, a sand bed provides more surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize. However, a bare bottom tank has its advantages too with the option of having increased flow without creating a sandstorm and providing reef keepers an easier job in cleaning the bottom of the tank.

The Acropora Tenuis with a blue body and red polyps looks gorgeous. Any chance for a frag sale?

Hello fellow reefers, If anyone is willing to sell a frag of a Forest Fire Digitata and a frag of any solid blue acropora (any species), I would be interested to purchase them.

I missed spotting your spathulatha. So sphathulatas need higher nutrient levels? Interesting as they are from Australian waters which are more pristine than Indonesian waters where the majority of our SPS corals are from. The irony is that I can keep strawberry shortcake acroporas (A.microclados) another Aussie endemic well coloured and growing yet struggle with Sphathulata.

A thread to share and discuss about challenging SPS species. For me, it's Acropora spathulata (Aussie thick millepora lookalike) and Acropora Hyacinthus (Fiji version). They grow well, keep their bright colours then mysteriously have their flesh recede until they eventually die. A.Spathulatha A. Hyacinthus

To me, it's not the lower or higher number of a certain dkh level - it's very more to do with the STABILITY of the dkh value than anything else. Keep the number tight at a narrow range and SPS corals will have a much better chance to fluorish.

My suggestion for first time SPS keepers is to avoid all the carbon dosing/ probiotic methods like Aquaforest, Fauna Marin, Zeovit etc and utilize the old school method of keeping your water clean with strong skimming, running phosphate removers and regular water changes along with sensible fish and invert stocking. This is to get you on the learning curve of understanding how stable water parameters and especially carbonate dkh stability is important to the health of sps corals. When you can keep good colouration and growth with the old school method, then you can be more adventurous and try to improve things with probiotic methods.

I believe in the case of a tank that is been carbon dosed (like mine) and aggressive wet skimming, then trace elements especially iodine would be quickly depleted.

NSW level for iodine is 0.06 ppm.

From what I know, dosing lugol's solution might be better when it comes to test kit detection although it's pretty powerful stuff and is less forgiving. Which is the reason why I opted for standard iodine instead of lugol's.

Absolutely no ill effects whatsoever. Which is why I swear by it. It's all been positive. As for control mechanisms, now that the sps corals which has STN are rebounding, there is no need to do heavy dosing anymore. I have reduced my dosing to a maintenance dosing regime of 3 times per week with 5 ml each time.

Absolutely no ill effects whatsoever. Which is why I swear by it. It's all been positive. As for control mechanisms, now that the sps corals which has STN are rebounding, there is no need to do heavy dosing anymore. I have reduced my dosing to a maintenance dosing regime of 3 times per week with 5 ml each time.

I tested with a Salifert test kit and it recorded undetectable readings prior to my first dose. After 5 days of dosing, it went up to 0.01 and remained at that level. However, salifert's instructions stated that iodine supplements which release iodine on a time released basis (such as the supplement I use) may not be detectable by the test kit or even inaccurate results. Hence, I just went commando and use my own observation to assess and dose until the stn stopped and growth resumed.