chrisyew

Check the float switch with a multimeter to ensure it's working well. For one of the float switch, you will need to reverse the float by taking out the c-clip below the float switch. Click link to see how float switch works; Float Switch Preparing the mount for the float switch. The 2 mount for the 2 float swtiches.

2 little plastic containers are needed to the float switch to act as snail guard or whatever intruders. The photo below show where to get such plastic container of the correct size hehe; You need to make some holes on top and at the bottom of the container as shown.

Ensure that the box you purchased is big and enough height for the transformer and the rest of the items. Choose a bigger box if it's more comfortable to work with. A smaller box will have messy wires inside hehe. Ensure the socket and switches have room when the top lid is closed and not obstructed by the items inside the box. Well I'm rather embarrassed to show the inside of the box - what a mess hehe!

Bridge rectiifier of this can be used. Try not to solder the bridge rectifier if your soldering skill is poor as it may 'spoil' the bridge rectifier due to overheating. Use the terminal connector.

If you are not familar with relay, get this type which shown the pin configuration on the body (usually the number 12 indicates it's 12V);

Items needed for this DIY APC I; - 230V to 12V Transformer - 1 Bridge Rectifier ($1.50) - 2 Float Switches ($18 to $22) - 1 12VDC DPDT solid state relay ($3.50) - 220V AC Bulb ($1.00) - ON/OFF Switch (220V AC) - Momentary ON/OFF Switch ($1.20) - A small PCB to mount the relay but optional ($1.00) - A plastic box to contain the items ($2.50) - Plastic wire terminal connector small size ($1.00) - 2 plug and socket (2 pin type) for float switch - 1 2 pin socket for the return pump (depending on your return pump plug) - Misc items like wire, sleeve, etc.... You may find all the above in Sim Lim Tower. For the Float Switch, there are 2 shops in the basement of Sim Lim Tower selling it ($20, $22) and Reef Depot is selling it for $18. This is the Plastic Terminal Connector; While here are some of the items shown except the capacitor and resistor which are taken out;

Disclaimer; If you are not completely comfortable working with electricity, then for your safety, and that of your family and tank, get a professional to wire it for you. Construct this project at your own risk. I will not be responsible for any damage or injury caused by improper construction of these devices. The combination of electricity and water can be deadly, so please handle with care if you do not have the proper experience. How it works; - On the Main Switch. - Ensure that both the Float Switches are in Closed position; i.e. the water level in the Sump is not below the bottom Float Switch and the water level in the Main tank is below the top Float Switch. - Press the Reset button to activate the pump. - As this Reset button is a momentary on/off switch, the switch is on when you press it but off when you release it. - Once you press the Reset button, the relay will be activated. There will be a 12V AC supply to the bridge rectifier and to the relay coil as well. Thus the relay closes. - This will supply the main voltage to the return pump, and the pump will start to work. The relay will not deactivate even if you release the Reset button. - The only way to stop the return pump is when either of the Float Switches is Open, breaking the supply voltage to the relay coil. This will cause the relay to open thus the main supply to the return pump is stop. - To reactivate the pump again, both the Float Switches must be in Closed position again, and the Reset button pressed. Here is the circuit of the APC I;

Here are some situations where the APC I are needed; - When the overflow pipe breaks siphon, the main tank will be flooded with water and may even overflow from the main tank. - When the overflow pipe breaks siphon, the last chamber of the sump tank may be drained dry by the return pump and may cause overheating of the pump. Why is the APC I different from those Auto Top Off devices? - When the return pump is cutoff due to any of the above situations, there will be a back siphon from the main tank to the sump tank thus causing the float switch to reactivate again in most Auto Top Off devices. So if one is using the Auto Top Off device to control this situation, your pipe to the main tank should not be inside the water of the main tank. But it will cause salt spray if the return pipe is not in the main tank too. - Thus to resolve this back siphon problem, the APC I is used. Once the return pump is cutoff, the pump will not be reactivated even if there is a back siphon. In whatever situation, once the return pump is cutoff, it won't reactivate again until you have resolved the problem. To reactivate the return pump, both the float switch must be in Closed position and the Reset button pressed again. When there is a Power Failure, will the return pump reactivate again once the power is resotred? - Sad to say in this model, it will not be reactivated again but you have to manually press the Reset button to activate the pump. This is the pro and con of this model. But personally I rather not to have the house flooded or the return pump overheated than to cater for the power failure situation. Anyway, the chances of power failure is not that high. Here is the APC I with the 2 Float Switches controllers;

Since I'm using a standard 2ft tank with no pre-drilled hole for overflow, I've a DIY overflow pipe. I believed most ppl like me are worried if one of these days, the overflow pipe decides to break siphon and the return pump will keeps pumping water from the sump to the main tank - imagine what will happen! So an Auto Pump Cut-Off is much needed in this case to detect the situation so that the supply to the return pump is cut-off until the problem is resolved. This is how my DIY Auto Pump Cut-Off(APC I) Model I looks like;

Still cycling, waiting for diatoms, etc... cycle to complete loh. Meanwhile doing my APC.

Sure bro Ong. My DIY overflow pipe alreadi done and it's in the DIY thread; DIY Overflow Pipe

Thanks Ong. My also a similar setup like yours - 2ft standard tank. Currently diy my auto pump controller before linking up to the sump. Will keep you posted once working.

Yr carpentry work fantastic! More pics pls....

Thanks bros. Yes, will try to solve the sound problem if possible. Thanks for the advice. Looking in my store for the correct size suction cup holder - ney don't remember where I put all those things.....

Thanks bro. The Auto Level Cutoff coming up next....

Total cost is very cheap if you don't do laser cut hehe! But prepare to sweat it out if you are young, not me though. Didn't really calculate the actual cost as I'm buying for the whole sump set up pipings and joints. But you can count the number of joint and pipe. Give you an estimate; 1 long piece of 3/8" pvc pipe is only $5.00 and you can ask her to cut it up smaller lenght. Total length I can't remember but very very long. Ball valve is $4.00 each. 90deg Elbow joint is $0.50 each. T-joint, coupling all at $0.50 each. Acrylic is about $1.00 to $2.00 each piece and cut to your size (at Dama). The workers there alreadi very fed up with my small little pieces every now and then hehe. Reduce the bubbles should be able to but haven't got time to try it out yet. Anyway, the bubble won't flow back to the main tank. Noise can be adjusted as I read in the other thread by another brother. Not really noisy. I'm not letting it run fully until my next Auto Level Cutoff project....

Take a look at the surface skimmer in action; The flow out of the pipe to the sump below; OK, well everything seems fine, Let's move on and hope you enjoy it.

OK, now is the time to hook up everything for the real run. See the surface skimmer is juz hook on the tank and the overflow pipe juz slip on the semi-circle slot. You can juz remove the overflow pipe without taking out the surface skimmer box. A closer look at the top;

After the test run of the overflow pipe, now is the time to place it in the surface skimmer box to see if it fits nicely. The top part sitting nicely on the semi-circle slot. The bottom part inside the surface skimmer box.

Before we proceed any further, let's plug in the ball valve to the overflow pipe and do a test. Juz use a pail of water to test it will do. Remember there must be a small hole drilled at the end cap. (Pls I'm not ###### out the toilet water out! )

Thanks to Melvin of sgreef for the Overflow pipe idea; Melvin's overflow pipe idea Basically what I'm doing is similar to what is posted in that thread with juz some minor tweaks to suit me. So while doing the leak test for the surface skimmer, I proceed with the overflow pipe. Take note of which part to glue as shown in this thread; Compliment to Rockfish of sgreef; Where to glue Once the leak test is completed the next day, I glued the balance pieces together to the surface skimmer. The semi-circle slot is for holding the pipes in place. This hook is glued together and the slot is for the pipes to be put in place.

Now followed by the black bottom piece. Once you got this done, let it dry for a while. Thereafter, go for a leak test by pouring water in the skimmer box until it overflows. Leave it overnight to see if it leak. If leak, try to reapply glue and press it together. This is an important step that one shouldn't miss.

First I will glue the 3 pcs with the surface skimming together; Now I joined the back transparent part together. The reason for using black for the 3 parts is because I'm using black Oyama paper, so the surface skimmer won't be so obvious in the tank. The transparent piece at the back is for me to see any objects stuck inside the box - ease of maintenance.

As for the surface skimmer, I do not intend to use the bigger size pipe and preferred to use acrylic. Of course there are many ways to go about doing the surface skimming but being lazy, I preferred the easy way out hehe. If you are using the bigger pipes, you will have to saw the slots or whatever method you have. Since I hate doing that, I got Dama to have it "Laser cut", but it's costly. 3 pieces that you see below cost me $24. Of course laser cut, it's very smooth. If you intend to have 2 overflow pipes, you juz have a bigger width. Alternatively, if you find laser cut is too expensive, you may cut those surface skimmer from JBJ (about $3.50 a piece) to size and glue to the acrylic here.

These 2 items you must buy. The pvc pipe cutter is gonna save you lots of time and it's easy to use. It costs onli $9.50. Also the glue for the pipe. But it from the same hardware shop. The middle aged woman there is very helpful and juz tell her what you want - she will help you.