ciaolong

well room temp is around 24-25 with no aircon (in perth aus) a bit different in sg. dont know how good the sicce are in heat release maybe look into the teco range ?

might want to look at your pumps as they might be the ones giving all the heat into your tank i have a 400w on my tank this 24x18x19 (most of my tanks use 400w) and without equipment running and just the mh and a tunze it runs under 25c but cause i using cheap pumps (need to get some ehiems) they release some heat into my water but that was just fixed using a pc fan my tank stay at a stable 27-27.5 with and without mh on

i guess a good example is over feeding an BTA. if you dont know how much to feed it you keep feeding wat u think is right it will kill it. i have done this before lucky the bta didnt kill other stuff in the tank but basicly i feed it to much, it basicly could keep up with digesting the food it already had and store it inside its system while it digesting the other piece of food. while it digesting the 2nd piece the other piece is becoming rotten and basicly kills the bta inside i did have picture of this but lost when i reformated but trust me it doesnt look nice

most corals will get their own food from the water from you feeding your fish

there should of been a small spoon inside with the test kit also look through your journal some more and talking to my friend about it. alot of ppl might not be for this but target feeding lps can upset them "cause if target feed end up u either feed too much or they end up loss the ability to catch their own food that is flooding in the water... " which can kill them faster dt or golden pearls are far than enough. o yeah epsom salts is a no go anymore haha cheh even i learn new things "will crash your tank sooner or later which result in iconic inbalance..." but there alot of mg addtives there IF your corals take alot of mg but best way is to do a water change also just realised since i am using nsw its easier for me to keep the mg levels even but you might want to test your salt to see if the mg is low i know some brands of salt come with low mg and you need to buff it a bit.

I am one of those ppl who dont use removers anymore to do the work. its ok as a short term solver but better to find the root of the problem. KISS (KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID) and SPS (Stability promotes sucess) are how i run things I usally recommend with new fish to put into a QT tank by themselves. before adding into a new tank to view their feeding habits and any sickness. reason alot of MI die in captive is lack of nurients from our food we feed. i have to say they one of the hardest fish to feed and should be left to the wild. Regular water changes is a great way to reduce nurients eg no3. but the Nitratreductor is also good way of removing no3 naturaly, same with macro aglae. (have a look for some cheato if you want macro) As for frozen foods contains VERY HIGH PO4 doesnt matter wat brand it still contains HUGE amounts of po4 if you still want to feed your fish with frozen please rinse them with some ro water before feeding. there alot of mg addtives you can even make your own here a good link to one for a 3 part (says 2 but its 3) http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/april2004/chem.htm its also good reading as it explains alot why alk/ca/mg go hand to hand i used Epsom Salts which is basicly the same thing as the commerical stuff just less pure but still does the job but if your lazy and use a calcium reactor there a product made by zeovit or geotech called mg granulates it comes to around 40 a kg or something (dont remember) To help you raise your mg have a look on this website to calc how much and over wat period of time your raise it http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chem_calc3.html the water change i was talking about is just to get your para all set (the 5 % over a few days) once your para are all stable you can do 10% over a week or so. also i recommnd if you have the money to buy a hanna LR po4 reader if you going into sps they roughly cost around 200 with the regants that can last over a year and cost only 20 bucks to refill or something but well worth the money much much better than any po4 test kit on the market.

kh is high for me as i go with NSW parameters Ca: 400 – 420 mg Mg: 1250 – 1300 mg KH: 6.5 – 7.5 mg is very important if to low you get very unstable alk levels also can affect your coral intake of ca. i dont know much about that salt as i use nsw but from wat i know one of the best salts would be seachems if you reducing or raising your mg/kh/ca do it slowly increase in a short period can lead to more stress to your livestocks. best way do a few water changes over a few days eg 5% for a few days. not one big water change in one go (i never do a water change over 20% cause if your new water and your tank water is a huge differents in para can upset your livestock) also when i talking about imbalance look at your no3 and po4 mg-ca-kh go hand-in-hand... then p04-n03 go hand-in-hand... (quoted from a good friend) usally when you have undectectable po4 eg .02-0.3 your no3 should be low 1 or even undectable.

your caclium is on the high side shound be around 400-420 and your mg is low Mg: 1250 – 1300 mg. i wont comment about the other para as there are removers been used but there alot of imbalances.

can you list out your parameters of your tank?

with alan on this you can even start sps at the start and have beatiful tanks but must know how to control your parameters.

waaah ... kana head shot ..... yo long time no see bros haha

-.-" ahya of course need expot lience first loool

sooo when our meeting la ?? must confirm with me wait i plan other stuff with the gf lol

Froggipani sponsored by bluesphere marines ? hahahha (aus ver only) LOL ! hahaha

-.-" lame