LaW

i place it on a rock, u can check mine out on my tank thread. it open bigger than a semi basket ball. for the damage part, i think you just need to avoid its flesh from sitting inbetween rock and its skeleton

too late

i think thats the most logical answer as well.

its really hard to determine whats good unless you set skimmers side by side running in a "fair" and controlled condition. i personally have use airstone skimmer ==> venturi weipro ==> marco skimmer ==> beckette 5ft ==> Bubblemaster BM250 ==> Bubblemagus self-import BM460 which is huge and running on 4 needlewheel pumps and finally settled down with a Bubbleking SM300. my advice is, if u are hardcore enough, got some extra $ to spare and most importanly when always in doubt whether your skimmer is serving you well, go for the top brands, it hardly will go wrong. and save you the $ for keep upgrading to the better range like me. so far my best skimmers used is Bubbleking SM300 and then BM460.

wow jim, the sunflower is looking so nice. and your new skimmer performance is looking good.

power. nicely done. im wondering how you manage to do that. what program etc.

for small tank size volume, dun use too much epoxy as there will be a risk of depleting oxygen. i seen a case of that before and the tank crashed. for rics, just like what ketchup suggested, use superglue. i personally use superglue for most of my application. epoxy is for me to glue heavier stuff. and i epoxy out of water then left it in low flow over the night. epoxy is tricky, need some practise. its best u dry ur rocks or coral skeleton with a cloth or tissue paper before use.

hi jacky/wilson, if you want, you can lend my blue tub. size is 4ft by 3 by 1.5

thats sign of ammonia burnt or extremely servere HLLE. hope u didnt do any hypo during these period of time and keep your salinity in check. when its of ozone or ammonia induced HLLE, its very difficult to nurse it back. but dun give up, i didnt for mine. all the best.

this picture is touched on. real thing might defer from the actual. by the way Peter, your rics are fantastic as usual. im sure u have got more wicked ones. hope you manage to get whatever types you wanted soon enough.

standard jerry cans i seen most is of aout 20liters. but they do varies in volume for different types. my advice is to doze bacteria. get those 100litre and 200litre buckets if you are doing salt. if not, you might give steven of lck or victor of iwarna a call to see how much he charge for a large waterchange with his NSW. on serveral occasion i have done 80%-90% WC. which is about 1000litre. didnt post a problem for me but for sure, there will be relatively some theoritical risk of shock.

like what order? dun forget if you need any help, just give me a buzz.

am glad to hear that for you. the outcome is pretty obvious. hope everything is billed back to them. i suppose they get fined as well? do you have the reference number for this case? want to look at it and might want to bring it up for discussion for my law class.

check nitrate. cannot to be too high. check NH3 and NO2 as well. there should be none. check phosphate. cannot to be too high as well. best to be zero. check magnesium & calcium, if Ca is too low, they wont open and will detach from skeleton and drift away. Ca is very important for hammer and the like. check ur temperature. hopefully not above 28oC all the best.

$48.80

ways to catch mandrain: 1) off all ur lights together immediately about an hour before lights off. then about 2 or 3 hours later (surrounding best to be in total darkness), then spot where is he and net him out. mine usually lies around the sandbed when they sleep. 2) by using live feeder, brine shrimp etc, in a transparent container. wait for it to enter and then use a net to cover the exit after that. ways to get rid the pod: 1) freshwater dip, might be risky like what Vtec suggested. 2) use a tweezer and pull the bug out in the open. it hurts the fish but its another alternative. all the best.

nice info Joe.

feather duster = protective layer is soft and brownish. coco worm = protective layer is hard and white in color. a picture will prove alot more useful in IDing for you.

supersun are bigger in head size. generally cost much more. easier than normal sun imo. both dun open in lighted area unless "trained" or allowing time to adapt. for both, feed it during the day, stimulate it then target feed and it will be open nicely for you during SOME/MOST part of the day. starting part takes patience but results will be rewarding.

powder brown is easier than powder blue. speaks from my exp. hope i answered your qns and you can try to keep. but do provide the best environment for it. and keep in mind they will grow relatively fast. and i bet you wont want to see yourself locked in a small cabinet forever. that if you get what i mean.

i suggest getting the powder series tang after u rescape and tank's biological system stablize. if not, be prepared to see lots of ick.

2 school of thoughts. it depend on which side u take.

confirm can. overskim already but its good in my reefing way. this unit is built to be short to replace 851. check the dimension at http://aquaticstore.com/marine/view/634

hi einstein, would appreciate if you have a clearer picture.