MarcoVan

Try CF.

4) a co2 tank -$20

Selling the below: 1. 3ft T5 retrofit (comes with 3 new bulbs, reflectors condition 6/10) - $80 2) 2ft 250W mh - $30 3) 1 Grotech Zeovit reactor - $0 (collect by today or will be donated to MASS) Will post more stuff along the way. PM if interested

That's nice to hear. hope we can see it soon

totally agree on the price tag. in fact ill choose to believe that it is not that hard to acquire that fish but question is is there a market for it? if the fish is going to cost 5k and minimum 3 pieces to deliver, will you pay $15k for them? So far not many people I know can swallow a $7k lest $5k fish and live to tell the tale. ops off topic

this one come easily one nucleon bomb haha

Compressor! haha

Dont need Id la. Just call them 'Jxlex gems' Ill like one frag hehehe

I would throw $50 into CF's rocks and then get a surface skimmer on a hang on back filter and keep what you described. No need carbon dosing. Too small to make a kick out of it. Youll probably get things out of whack more often than nought..

not bad, looks good

Anyway mindless pursue of carbon dosing methods will get you nowhere. Ive seen great tanks in the world who didnt do all that was mentioned but tanks are omg awesome..

I dont think coarse substrate is bad. Im using grade 3 sand now and they are just as good as grade 1. Unless you want to dispute that coarse sand looks less aesthetic as fine ones, I will give it to you. And with regards to your tinkering of your system I thinn its not a good reason to restart your tank. Come on, just think of the amount of life in your tank and you are wasting all the stuff you put in before by restarting. Honestly I just dont think you got sufficient knowledge yet. What I will do is simply keep the tank going, run a lot of water changes, throw in a bigger skimmer, and coral and fish free for a few months. Things will return if you do that. And guess what, my happiest tank came when I was doing 10% water change a week, rowa and carbon change a month and things really took off. Oh well, its your tank anyway. Just watch out for your pocket though

What's your skimmer model? From what I understand, carbon dosing requires a very efficient skimmer

Selling for $110. PM me if if interested

Passing on these 3 shrimps. PM me if interested

sorry s3 lag hence split post up for easier viewing and typing.

and it will be wrong to think they get to where they are now with money. if you have followed lawchan's thread youll know how bad his hands were when he tried to rescape to give more flow to his corals and how dnspl coped with gg to pasir ris buy seawater for water changes. same go for other senior reefers like cedric and mike. that's dedication my friend; something money cant buy.

Yes lawchan and dnspl tanks are great hehe

Anyway you dont need big money to get a piece of reef. If you have been to nano reef.com you'll find alot of tanks equally pretty with little equipments. What they lack in dollars, they make that up with strict husbandry and water changes regime. Reefing is just a hobby. Take it lightly and enjoy it along the way.

You don't need a big space to keep do that. I did it in my 3 footer before in office and then now again in a 6 gallon tank. It'll still work no matter what, provided you got something. That's right! Patience my friend. Good things only come to those who wait (: So it doesnt matter whether you restart now or later, you still wont get to anywhere because you still going to make the same mistakes all over again.

I copied tt out from Sean T. in RC. Anyway seems like this thread is OOT. lol

Can you reuse LRs? Sure! why not. Just remember to 'cook' it. Cooking is the methodology of seeding good bacteria in your rocks in a pail/tank of seawater under normal to high temperature for a period of 1-2months. You can effectively reduce your cycling period and at the same time, colonise your rocks with healthy bacteria population. The good bacteria will feed on your existed nutrients so basically leaving your rocks 'clean'. 'Cooking' is not baking your rocks under sun nor in bleach. If you got time to go CF, go see what they do with their live rocks. Similar methodology except theirs is in bigger scale - no skimming no chiller just good aerated water in constant constant motion. attached is your read up The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have tha bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible. The first step to this is commitment. You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank. It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done. The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system. In order to this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job. So basically you need tubs to hold the rock. Equipment needed. 1. Dedication. 2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges. 3. A few powerheads. 4. Plenty of buckets. 5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level." Here are the steps, if you have any questions I will try my best to answer them. What I don't know I am sure Bomber can/will instruct. 1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW. 2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives. 3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this. 4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full. 5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms. 6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third. 7. Place rock in the tub. 8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turnsq brown. 9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. 9. Cover the tub. Remember, we want total darkness. 10. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank. 11. Wait. 12. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week. What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in. First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before. Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk. Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub.. Repeat for all your rocks. Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose. Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover. Wait again unti the next water change. You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detrius is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing. How it works: Some FAQ's. When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any? I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been extablished. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out. When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once. Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process? I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus. I hope this helps you out. It really is a "miracle" and a low cost one at that. The only monies spent are for salt and electricity for the powerheads which are nominal. Especially to rid yourself of Bryopsis. Time and effort is all it akes. And really not that much effort. I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it. There isn't a single visible strand on andy rocks in the tubs now. Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course. And a few last minute tidbits I remembered. Your coralline will die back, receed etc. My thoughts on this are GREAT! Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc. Coralline will grow back. Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off. Everytime I do a waterchange they are there and plentiful. If you have any questions please ask.

I see no point in restarting too unless you have gone through shit like mine which was an endless spiral downwards. FYI, my sandbed turned black and my HA were growing like weeds. If you experience that, you are obliged to restart. If not, suck it up and go through it. like bro jxlex said, restart is an an illusion. The root causes of your problems have yet to be solved. Anyway cyano is the least of my concerns in reefing. (: Debate between nsw or salt mix, well for new tanks I'll just go with NSW but that's only for the start, subsequent water changes Ill do salt mix with salt like Tropic Marin, Instant Ocean or Reef Crystals. currently im on Red Sea Coral Pro. Never use Blue Treasure before. Basically for me is what the Americans use, I'll follow.

lol I like the wife nagging part haha

that one few rounds later will rust to the core le..