Joe_P

Darn..... seems like I have been missin some really cool stuff .... Looks like I have to wait a little longer......

most media will dissolve better and faster at lower pH...

I'm using ARM... and they are known to dissolve at a higher pH compared to other medias....

Jus taken a readin of the effluent from my CR.... Ph : 7.1 dkH : 30 CA : 460 bubble count : 1 bubble per second effluent drip : 58 ml/min gonna pump more CO2 in and take measurements again few hours later.....

I'm thinkin more to the line of keepin the chiller as a spare..meaning it does not have to run at all ..... Having water pumped through the spare unit without any activation of the chiller wouldn't cause any problems ... would it??? Maybe Dr Chill can advise .... So basically, all the chiller needs is its own dedicated pump and a different temp differential .... one which when activation of the spare unit would have meant that the original unit is down.... It is actually more of like a safety feature.....

Hmmm... SOme fo the stuff looks really nice....

But you still have to get a new one at the end..... so was contemplating to get a spare jus in case when I really need one, I might experience some difficult obtaining it ...... Another point worth considering is that you might be away for a season of time ..... then what happens???

Hmmmm ... how do you get a chiller to do a warm up run??? And is that a requirement?? The main issue here is to have a backup... Not having both chillers running and not having a alternate sequence... Most chillers would experience wear and tear as long as it is operating on a constant basis..... That would however not happen to the spare unit as chances of it starting is pretty slim..... all that has to be catered to it is to ensure that a pump runs water through it............

Was wondering if a thermoset to cut off lights would be good.... Ain't the lights gonna take some time to cool and would therefore still be contributing heat....??? Nest issue is as long as theres no chiller, its also impossible to retain temperature of reef below 29 degrees... Lets say that if a reef is normally tuned to 25 - 26 degrees temperature, wouldn't a long period under the temperature setting of 29 degrees gonna rid the reef??? Well, not recommending the usage of morre than 1 chiller... but implying that a spare chiller for a reef would be a good idea... except that instead of having it in the storeroom, why not jus plumb it up and program it only to start when the first breakdown....

Nah.... Wouldn't recommend 2 chillers running..... cos the wattage running 2 would be really high..... The reason for 2 chillers running at different temperature setting is simply jus to ensure that if the primary one were to fail, you have a backup.... Simply put it, the 2nd chiller will never operates unless theres a operation failure of the first.... so its like having a spare chiller on hand except its plumbed into the system on standby...activates on its own during emergencies..... So as long as the chiller dosen;t run, there would not be any electrical consumption.... therefore only thing to be concern would be the price of the second unit..... But one thing for sure...... you won't lose your livestock when your chiller conks out... For eg... running a 0.5 Reef Relief Chiller with setpoint of 26 degrees and a differential of 1 degree ...... and a 1.25 Reef Relief with setpoint of 26 but with differential of maybe 3.... So the 0.5 chiller starts when reef temperature hits 27 ... as long as the chiller is able to handle the load, the 1.25 Hp chiller would never activate ..... But if the first chiller would to breakdown...... the 2nd unit would come in handy and prevent a catastropic event....

Hi Guys, Jus sent my chiller for servicing ... Got a 2nd hand Reef Relief chiller from Dr Chill to manage my reef... Now with the intention to purchase that chiller from him... Through this event, was thinkin of a few issues regarding chiller breaking down...... and was wondering whether a reef could run 2 chillers at the same time with one as a backup jus in case the primary one fails.... Dunno how easy it is for a chiller to breakdown but reckon having a spare would be a good thing.... This is what I'm thinking of .... have 2 chillers plumbed into the system with chiller 1 having a temperature setting point at (lets say 26 degrees) with differential at 1 degree.... Chiller 2 would be given a setpoint of 27 degree with differential of 2 degrees.... Chiller 1 will start operation about reef water temp reaching 27 degrees... Basically only chiller 1 will operate to cool the reef...... and stops upon the reef reaching 26 degrees (setpoint) ...... Chiller 2 only starts when the water temperature reaches 29 degrees... This is so that if chiller one malfunctions either to it breaking down, leakage of coolent or either that day being too "hot"and it only being able to cool the reef , chiller 2 would then activate when the reef water reach the temperature that would activate it .. in this case, at 29 degrees.... therefore saving our much previous corals and livestock ..... Chiller 2 would then in this case be the spare chiller..... Any comments on this......

Do you understand what was posted earlier??? Man, I think I better get some lessons for effective communication... It seems like I'm having trouble getting thru to reefers....

Most softies would benefit tremendously in a high nutrient reef... Placed some of these into reefs with low nutrients and you will notice that they slowly waste away..... Unless constant feeding and efficient skimming is employed....

I'm actually refering more to feeding .... and the addition of Lugols solution (iodine) ......

And then we can go visit the LFS in Neo Tiew everyday???

Yes, they do grow..... and that depends very much o nutrient levels.... moderate lighting would be good.... I kept these in my SPS reef before and due to the low nutirent level, notice that they dun grow much... Now that I have them placed into a compartment with slower water flow in them andhigher nutrient levels, reaulting in many of them growing to twice their sizings within weeks... Of course I do feed them and maintain high nutrient levels..... These rics are also fed 150Watts of MH rays.....

Well, I like to have one that's as huge as yours....

Yes... I'm trying.... Jus dump some CACl in recently... will take readings again later.... Hey, think you might have jus solve my problem.... I did dump in some ( ) Reef Builder in previously last round.... think it might be a little too much..... A CR could be used to increase alk/cal levels of the reef .... and later re tune to maintain them....

You missed the last post.....pls read carefully maybe this time with your glass on... notice the word "more"... I did not proceed to find out the actual reading of dkH of the first test...... stopped at 32 dkH..... The readings would be higher if I proceed on... My reef's alk levels at 10 and calciums at 320 at the moment... will test my effluents calcium reading later.... Still tweaking that crazy thing..... My current configuration's not able to get the levels up....(not able to meet the reefs demand....) so was hoping a higher amount of effluent in might make the difference.....

Is that abnormal.... Refering to first post, mY readings for first attempt is 6.5 for pH with more than 32 dkH for Alk levels... didn't proceed further to find actual value... 2nd readings are 6.8 for pH... with dkH readings at 47...... Whats weird with this reading....???

Pistols and Mantis shrimps normally come as hitchikers on Liverocks... I have quite a number of pistols in my reef...... they came as hitchikers ..... There shouldn't be much concern unless you are bothered by the noise they make and fishes start going on vacation never to return....

Aiya .... I go open tap and gas now .....

Whats your effluent drip rate like??? Dunno whether if the rate of effluent drip does affect the system overall Calcium/alk levels... And that is what I'm trying to point out... Sorry for the misleading title.....

Sorry ..... 40 drops per min.... And thanks for the entertainment....

Hi Guys, jus wondering how's your reactor working on your reef?? Have been runnin my DIYed CA Reactor on my reef and noticed the following... Combination of bubble count at 1 bubble every 3 seconds and effluent drip at 40 drops per second... with resultant pH of 6.5 for a single chamber can't meet my Reefs Calcium demand..... Reading of dkH from the effluent is above the 32 dkH that the salifert can register.... So i increase the effluent rate into a constant drip.... and increase the bubble count to 1 bubble per second..... Resultants pH of effluent 6.8 .. dKH of effluent ....47... used 2 ml instead of the usual 1 ml for tiltration.... and using low resolution... with reference to this... from this thread... "Calcium Reactor tuning" http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...calcium+reactor Anyone has this problem...??