Joe_P

Hi Frankie, My experience with acros turning from brown to green usually indicates that the acro is in the transitional colour change to something really pleasing to the eye... My personal experiences are 2 colonies with such colour morphs.... 1 eventually turned into a yellow acro after about 9 months and is now beginning to show bluish purple tips under stronger illumination... the second one has morphed into a lime green... IMO, lights will never be too much for acros as the more you pump in, the better the colours... Yes, jus to mention, there are acros that remain brown no matter how much lights you dump on them....

Woah... 2.5 inches for outflow?? That's pretty large .... What are you plannin to drive the returns for your system???

A new tank huh???.... So how much larger would that be compared to what you have currently???

Ckevin, This is strange.... you sure you got your readings correct... You won't notice coral chips dissolving unless pH is around 6.5...(from my observation with coralchips on Calcium Reactors....) unless your reefs pH's thats low.....

Vincent, Water parameters have got a lot to do with what you intend to venture to... If you are headin the direction of SPS or any high calcium consumption stuff, my suggestion would be to increase the dkH... Unlike the ocean, a reef tank has a really small volume of water so some parameters are boosted up to create stability….

Reactor is sold...

Korallin's still available...

Thanks Pal... Now its time to move on......

X Japan.... you have a really misleading title... My 4 footer tank..., nothing special... And her eyou are showing stuffs thats making me drool.....

Hi Guys, I have a 4 footer reef filled with frags that I would need to sell off... Will consider letting them off at a lower price if a substantial amount is purchased.... Need to clear them as I proceed with my new plans... Pls PM me for details...

Refer to the above... have been covered by Roidan and myself... Footprint's about 17.5" by 11.5"... I have a unit with a LFS, you might be able to have a look if you make your way down today.....(PM you details)...

Yup, you are right... but I reckon a second chamber to be of much smaller diameter and as tall as possible..... for it to be efficient.. Currently working on hang-ons second chamber units that can be placed onto the current reactors that I'm buildin..... "mini rectors" .... Dual chamber reactors that comes small don't work efficiency.... due to the nature that the second chamber functions as a static component without any recirulation... therefore it has to be designed differently.... a large single chamber running on a much more powerful recirculation pump will definitely produce good results ... a point to ponder though.... why buy a unit running on a larger pump which would mean a higher initial investment and higher long term cost when a second chamber solves the problem..... running on a standard pump... my 2 cts...

Interesting... What kind of angels would you be considering?? Was tempted to place a Emperor, Regal into my previous system....

Exactly what I'm looking for......

What you had previously witness is the 1st holdin reef... A second holding reef was setup for the parent colonies and from that setup onwards, no link up were made... can't possibily run the entire setup cos the chiller would be overworked.... I wouldn't say that the acros in my holdin reef are doin excellent... they did fairly well mainly due to the following.. 1) they had been aclimitised to reef conditions, quite a number colonies growth from frags and them being a few generations old. the ones that perish due to RTN are mainly newer colonies (those that are less than a month old.....) 2) Minimal bioload 3) water of the holdin reef from previous main 5 footer??? I did built a compartment about 2.5 by 1 foot wide to house a 6 inch DSB.... but that would not be of much help till at least another 6-8 months time.....

Hi Guys, I'm looking for one unit of Resun MD 55. Anyone have a spare ?? Please PM me.

Before we get into another miscommunication... What I'm saying is that the colouring of a specimen has very little to do with the health of one.... You can have a healthy brown SPS ....

The colonies that brown up are actually new additions into my reef previously …. They had actually browned up in my 5 footer …. ( A few did show improvement in colours since being added into my holding rfeef under the new lightings... ) The ones that have been establish for some time in my reef previously did have a slight shift in colouration but have returned to their original colours and some have in fact have coloured up much better…. I however did lost a few to RTN and I would say that they are the result of different water conditions. My 2 cts

From my observations, the browning up of SPS has very little to do with water conditions.. it has a lot more to do with lightings… Zooxanthellae development (which results in the browning of SPS) is jus simply the corals natural move to get more light esp when most reefs dun get that kind of light source as found in nature… ….. whereas the bright colours associated with them are shieldings against UV… Done a test recently on my holding reef… placed a lavender purple stag into my reef but have a light source jus around 6 inches from the specimen… and the coral remained purple… in fact, the colours are simply brighter as time goes by…. And my holding reef is only 2 months old….. Have been through quite numerous transplanting of SPS … and realize that the most important factor to survival rates has more to do with corals aclimitising to conditions as close as possible to the previous location…. Place a coral into a environment that does not match up in conditions…. RTN is experienced…. That is why even successful reefs sometimes still experience wild colonies RTN-ing even though conditions are good…. My 2 cts….. (and “hopers”, pls dun use above statement of my holding reef being 2 months as licence)

That is definitely not good news.... Does the document also reveal how or what takes them in nature??

Weileong, you should stick to the nylon ones.... cause the metal bolts will cut into the plastic counterparts, damaging the threading......... then you really need to use cable ties...

I'm beginning to get convinced that the DE bulbs gives better results than the SE.... Can't help it... the few rounds I made to reefers homes have actually convinced me.... colours do turn up better with reefs running on DEs..... only problem with the DEs are the glass shieldings required..... In fact, I'm contempleting to convert to DE bulbs for my new reef.....

It depends on what you want for your reef .... I have tried 400ws and 250ws, even running 150 watts now... If you are looking for vibrant growth, do stay away from the Blue bulbs...IME, they are really dim even for the 400 watters..... stick to the 400Ws (no point dumping $$$ running the blues) 10kks bulbs and supplement them with blues T5s or actinics ...... 2- 4 tubes of T5s should do some colour adjustment of your reefs..... if you intend to upgrade.... In fact, the 250Ws 10kk bulbs run so much brighter compared to the 400Ws...... The issue with Hon's acros "chao ta" symdrone has more to do with the bulbs he changed to ...... which many other reefers in the states experienced if you have been paying some attention to some threads in RC..... My 2 cts...

lookin for a morning drink to sober you up??

You should be able to get some really cool growth out of the 250 Ws…. Unless you are using the BLVs Blue… (was using them previously and don’t noticed much coral development). It’s a strange thing that your acro colonies have been stagnant… Unless you have a reef full of specimens that are slow growers ( some specimens are)…you might like to check on your parameters….. Think we covered on upgrading of MH in a similar thread…. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=14004 Like my previous post… If you could afford it, go 400 watts…..