gods_angel77

ACTUALLY PUT ON TOP GOOD ENOUGH ALREADY IF U DON'T MIND THAT IS

WOW SO SAD SO FAR NOT EVEN ONE REPLY. EVERYONE SLEEP ALREADY HUH? HOPEFULLY CAN GET FEW REPLIES BY TOMORROW

HAVE BEEN USING WOOL FOR THE PAST ONE & THE HALF YEAR SO FAR FIND IT NOT BAD GOT PRIMARY WOOL AT OVER FLOW REPLACE EVERY 1 WEEK ONCE & SECONDARY FILTER WOOL AT SUM BEFORE BIOLOGICAL FILTER REPLACED 2 MONTHS ONCE NO3 IS ALWAYS AROUND 2 TO 5 PPM USING DSB SYSTEM HOPE THE ABOVE EXPERIENCE I HAVE IS USEFUL FOR U TO MAKE YR DIS

HI BRO U CAN USE KENT MARINE RAZOR IT COST $10 BUT SUPER GOOD CAN EVEN REMOVE CORLIN/ A EASILY. U CAN PURCHASE IT FROM SEA LIFE & REBOND I THINK

HI BRO U CAN USE KENT MARINE RAZOR IT COST $10 BUT SUPER GOOD CAN EVEN REMOVE CORLIN/ A EASILY. U CAN PURCHASE IT FROM SEA LIFE & REBOND I THINK

After reading the under-mention article, I’m thinking of playing with Ozone too but, before I play I need some help form the expert brothers out there. First of all which ORP controller is better? Why? Please justify your answer 1) Milwaukee SMS510 2) Macro ORP controller the one selling at BIO Ocean Secondly where can I buy a good ozone dosing pump? Which brand is better I would sincerely appreciate if someone could give a price range of the various brands in the market and where to purchase it from Thirdly I’m using an H&S skimmer model is 150-F2001. I’m I right to say that I can just connect the ozone to the skimmer aqua bee air input hose & I’m game to play. I understand that I need to run the OPR controller 2-3 days before I start dosing the ozone. : Did I miss out any steps & are the above two steps sufficient for me. What else should I know huh Lastly would like to thanks all the brothers in advance for helping me out. This articel might be useful to read.... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It has long been recommended that ozone be used in marine tanks for many reasons including its ability to kill many pathogens and make the water crystal clear. Ozone (O3), which is an unstable form of oxygen, acts by oxidizing with (giving up an oxygen molecule to) anything that it comes in contact with. In laymen's terms, ozone acts as bleach and kills things like bacteria and viruses on contact. Not only does this bleaching action help reduce the pathogen load in a tank, but ozone also interacts with dissolved organics in a tank to make them less interactive so that they can easily be removed by a protein skimmer. This is why when the saltwater hobby was starting out forty years ago, the use of a protein skimmer coupled with an ozonizer was highly recommended. Fortunately we have come a long way since then. Those old ozonizers created ozone via an electric spark, much like lightning does. Newer ozonizers are now in a solid state and produce ozone through corona discharge technology where oxygen molecules pass over a specially designed light source to produce the ozone. Ozonizers clean the water chemically by having this extra oxygen molecule interact with living material as well as with the by-products of metabolism. The relative cleanliness of the water can be measured by the reduction-oxidation (redox) potential of the water. In most healthy systems, this redox potential is usually between 300 - 350mV without the use of ozone. In order to measure the redox potential a special electronic monitor and probe needs to be used. With ozone, redox potential can easily be raised to 400 - 500mV. This higher level is closer to that seen in the waters surrounding a reef, where levels of dissolved organics are very low. This is why the fish seem to be suspended underwater. The same effect can be achieved in an aquarium with the use of ozone. The ozone removes much of the yellowing compounds that tend to accumulate in a reef tank over time. By intermittently using ozone the water can be kept crystal clear, even more so than can be achieved with the use of carbon. Ozone does not need to be run constantly, but can be run for short periods of time once a month to keep a tank crystal clear or when the redox potential drops below a certain level. Ozone should also be utilized when a tank is being started and live rock is being cured to remove as much of the dissolved organics as possible. Ozone should also be run constantly when a disease breaks out. Ozone cannot affect the pathogens that are on the fish, but if any free-swimming pathogens come into contact with it in its reaction chamber or in the skimmer they will be killed. Ozone needs to be kept out of the tank as it bleaches any organic matter that it comes into contact with. It should either be bubbled into a protein skimmer or into its own reaction chamber. When it is in use, the water should then flow over carbon to keep any ozone from reaching the tank itself. If ozone does get into the tank it can cause bleaching of the gills of fish, so this needs to be avoided. As noted above, ozone is highly interactive and as a result it needs to be used with special equipment. Any tubing that it passes through needs to be of silicon, which does not interact with ozone. If regular airline tubing is used, it will become hard and brittle quite quickly when exposed to ozone. Similarly, most plastics will become brittle and crack when exposed to ozone so be careful when choosing a vessel for introducing ozone. Ozone also breaks down quickly when exposed to high humidity so it is best to run the air going into the ozonizer through an air drier. This will dramatically increase the production of ozone. As noted above, it is not necessary to run ozone constantly in any system. However, having ozone available when necessary is a worthwhile investment, especially when its use makes the tank so clear that the fish seem like they are suspended without any water around them. Ozone and Ozonizers by Mike Paletta

good question angelfish i also don't konw where we can buy it form anyone?

1200l/h to 4800l/h

At initial stage I use to do monthly 10% water change for my 4x2.5x2 tank but recently just change the schedule to 10% water change every 2 months. (Starting to get lazy Lah) I discover my NO3 is always between 2-5ppm use a deep sand bed system 18 months system Other water perimeters are listed below Ph8.2 No2:0 No3:2-5ppm Nh4:0 Kh:9 Ca:410 Mg:1260 Sr:16 Specific Gravity:1.024 Salinity 30 ppt Anyway I feel is good to do a monthly water perimeter check so that you can actually communicate with your tank Lastly if all your coral & fish are healthy just don't care nor worry so much loh

using H & S so far very happy with it's performance. system more that 1.5 year 4ftby2.5ftby2.0ft so far no2=0 no3= 0-2ppm only and po4= 0 nh4= 0 ca 400ppm mg 1230ppm sr:16 kh:10 got 33 corals 6 tang which are 4 inc and bigger is size total fish stock not more than 18 Hope the above help cheers

wow that a good price what happen to it?

Hi check your ground or so call (earth) work & cable. if possiblie use other power point to on the chiller if u encounter this problem only when u on the chiller & u don't encouter this when the chiller is off than mostlikly the chiller fan motor, pcb or compressor is shorted so pls don't use it anymore. Do take note that if the earth leakage is huge your entire house ELCB might trip. Hope the above trouble shoothing helps. Cheers.

wow super products man and selling at a very good price too

they had alot of marine fish BUT TO BAD NOT KEEP BUT TO EAT HAHAHA cHEERS

Hi Perform 20% of water change Use AZ No3 not bad should help

ok bro seem like not much others down here know much information either.

wow that's bad man any other got idea to share leaving tomorrow night already

ha ha ha my one also go up by $100 this month but the logic is oil price is up that is why yr electric is up also this is singapore pay & pay always cheers.

Hi I'm going to shanghai next week can any of the good brothers out there who have been there or have any good information to share of good shops at there pls let me know

IMHO i still feel Teco TW6 is better if i'm not worong reefdeport was selling it for $1200

artica made in korea if i'm not worng

Mix your salt with tap water and run Rowa in your tank I think this is a good enough method not very costly also. It is better to do small amount of water change that large amount 10% monthly is good enough for most people. Anyway I do 10% of water change every two months once so far water perimeters are good & althought not a good practice what i do is remove my entire sum water add in fresh water,salt & 2 caps of AZ NO3 run the sum only for 1 hour & than on the mian pump to pump all the water back to main tank so far everything is so good i.e. Ph 8.2 no2 0 No3 0-2 NH4 4 0 ca 425 Mg 1260 KH 10 po4 0 Si I think it's 10 can't remember the actual value at this moment Specific gravity: 1.024 Chiller set temp 25 deg c Cheers

My Tank size 4Ftx2.5Ftx2Ft & sum tank 2.5ft x2ft x 2ft Bro will tell u frankly the 450 & 650 will not perform that good and take long time to cut in out which in short means you pay more lah I had use the Resun 650 & 1/4 Hp Arctica but found both the chillers to be not to my expectation. I.e. to remove 2 deg c within 1.5 hour with my 2x350 watts metal head lights on Finally use the TECO TW6 at this moment I think it's is the best chiller in terms of performance and cut in & and out timing Hope the above experience I had helps you Cheers

j just on it u won't go wrong i believe 80% to 90% of people will leave it on anyway u have all the necessary info now so make yr choice wisely

hi bro if u want u can try using AZ NO3. I'm having a DSB system initial phase of my tank operation i had NO3 of 40ppm after using 2 bottle of AZ NO3 & doing 10% of water change when first started to use the product now NO3 measure 0-2ppm I don't use the AZ NO3 on daily bassies anymore However when i perform 10% of water change every 2 months once & i use 2 cap of AZ NO3 So far so good NO3 in control Use row phos to control PO4 my tank measure 0ppm Feed moderately Last but not least best of luck Cheers