clowntrigger

Hi AT will there be a lady tank top for sale as well? I remember you putting a few design up in one of the thread, and there is a lady tank top in consideration, please advised, thanks.

I am sorry, do I see double chamber in the body and the collection cup or it is just the photo? Care to show us the different parts unassemble?

ok here is the list of topic pertaining to Reef/titanium relief chiller, search result

so the conclusion is not to rinse, am I right? I rinse the media 3 times before I put into the tank, seem like all the good stuff is lost, that is why I feel that there isn't any effect in my tank.

you mean this red one in my tank

I believe you can put in the Live Rock LR and not Live stock LS.... In fact when you first setup your tank, you should put in all the LR so that it can help kick start the cycling. As for LS, you should wait till Ammonia and Nitrite be zero, and Nitrate start to fall, then do a change of the water and then start to add fish or corals at a very very slow rate. Would recomend 1 of each per week or 2 weeks. The reason is that you would want your system to able to handle the additional load slowly...

if it is explanding or bloated, this is the normal behaviour of a open brain. I think it is best if you can take a pictures and show it to us, that way we won't give you any false information..

I have use it long time ago, trust me, why spend that kind of money when DSB is the way to go? It is better to setup the system the right way in the begining then to modify it later... Go for DSB, you will never go wrong.

my advice to those who want to keep a cuke, make sure that your tank is mature and large, preferably 6mth and 4 ft above. Reason being that if your tank is pretty new, it will not have enough food for the cuke. Small tank will also mean that the surface area is small and food will be limited, this is just my thought.

Hi Alvy What do you mean by "H&S venturi valve image"? I have a H&S skimmer, I can take a pictures for you to see but first you must let me know what the hell is H&S venturi valve image

You are one lucky chap to have Alvy made the needlewheel for you.... I will wait for the photo then, thanks. Sorry, I prefer to see the actual thing and not from the web if it does not incurr more trouble for you...

OMG, this is great, care to take a pic at the DIY needlewheel assembly?

Kenny's place is Reef world at Pasir Ris fish Farm, hope this help.

Just a word of caution if you are getting netting for plenum. I know someone who bought netting for use in Aquarium from some other source and in the end, the netting starts to melt and stick onto the LR stacker. Those netting are those black in colour ones, so just be careful when getting netting for aquarium use.... just my input..

Indeed this is true for me. I have tried various flowrate through my chiller and I find that if I allow a bigger flowrate through the chiller, the time to cool down take longer for the same delta set. I am puzzle now....... For your information, I used a Sicce Extrema which able me to switch the various flowrate, also tried eheim 1250 and some China brand power head. Conclusion, higher flowrate tend to take longer time... my 2 cents.

It is very near to LCK 110. Once you come out of LCK main gate, turn right and a few fish farm down the road, you will see a building with the blk number 201.

It depend on what coral do you intend to keep and also what is the height of your tank. Eaquanature can also do deliver on COD terms, cash on delivery, just drop them a email and I believe you can tie thing up with him. Each T5 retrofit will comes with 2 t5 Tubes, 2 reflector and everything that make it work. It is like plug and play. Thus if you get one of those retrofit set, it will be 24Wx2 = 48W. With this wattage, you can keep mushroom, leathers, star polyps.

15-20ppm is ok for the time being. Just control on what you feed into the tank and also control the number of new corals or fishes into the tank as these tend to add lots of bioload. In time to come, you will see that your N03 will dropped. I used to keep corals in 50ppm previously until recently when my N03 drop to the current level. Still I don't trust those media, I ever heard someone saying that the Seachem Nitrate removal media also does not work. Still to DSB, give it more time, this hobby is about patience...

The most effective and cheapest way is to employed DSB in main tank and Macroalgae in Sump. I personally have tried it and it work for me. My N03 in my tank hover between 1 and 2.5 ppm. I don't believe in those media or solution, they are just short term fix, IMO.

Calc is like 380-390 Alk is like 7.0 - 8.0 No3 is like 1 - 2.5ppm Has been dripping 2l of Kalk(2 teaspoon) with vinegar(20ml) evry alternate days. On top of that, will add in 4 tablespoon of Reef builder for increase of Alk every week and 2 tablespoon of Turbo calcium.

It was brown as told by the fragger

I think more T5 will not do any good as the orginal colour from the parent is brown in colour, unless it has been proven that even if the orginal colour is brown, under intense lighting, it will change the colour again. If that is the case, I wouldn't mind squeezing more T5

Frag at 30 Sept 2003 Now I know why people love keeping SPS, it is interesting seeing them grow.

Frag at Aug 25 2003

Hi to all Just like to share the growth rate of the frag that I gotten from Phang on 29 June till now. Frag is under 4x54w T5, 3 aquablue and 1 Actinic in a 4ft tank. Sit back and enjoy. Frags just acquire on 29 June 2003