clowntrigger

Hi Valleyman, first you should ask yourslef are you keep corals or just Fish? If Fish, then there is no need to have PL or MH, but if you are keeping corals, then here are the available PL for you to choose. From MarineLife -------------------- 4x55W PL light housing, includes 4 10000K PL, price $240(not electronic ballast) From Nature Aquarium ---------------------------- 1. 4x36W PL light housing, includes 4 10000K PL, price $240(I think they are using the electronic ballast. You need to confirm the price, that was what I was quote sometime back) 2. 2x55W PL light housing, includes 2 10000K PL, price $140(Electronic ballast) From Soon Heng or C328 ------------------------------- JBJ, 4x40W or 4x36W PL light housing, includes 4 6500K or 10000K PL, price $270-$280. as for selection, it is totally up to you.

Tanzy, thanks for the reply, I will try to post the pictures for you to identify.

well for the remaining 2 pieces, the 3000l going for $130 and the 2000l(pressureized one) going for $115. This is indeed a good price, very difficult to get such low price for such a good pump. BTW the power consumption for these pump are as follow 3000l - 45w 2000l(pressureized) - 38w 2000l - 18w heard Patrick say he bring in just to test water, after these 2 pieces are gone, future batch will be of different prices.

aquabee is the way to go. I think there is only 2 left, one is 2000l and the other is 3000l.... Get it you won't regret it, such high flow rate at such low power.... Just installed a 3000l over the weekend, all my softies is swaying more in any part of my 4ft tank.

Hi to all Saw these posting in Saltwater Aquarium forum, thought might be very helpful to those beginner trying to keep coral like me. Here you go..... The following is a list of hardy corals for the beginner. It is intended to educate, and inform new hobbyists about the different corals offered for sale in the hobby that are easy for beginners to keep. Even though the corals listed are quite hardy...they still need good water quality, and proper care if they are going to survive and thrive in captivity. The scope of this file is not to explain the proper water parameters for a reef tank. There are plenty of good books on the subject, and great files in the FISHNET libraries that can be utilized for this purpose. This file is to help educate new hobbyists with the names and care of hardy corals...which can sometimes be confusing to a beginner. I hope you will find the following list useful. SOFT CORALS Scientific name: Sarcophyton sp. Common name(s): Leather Corals, Umbrella Corals Tips on care: Give moderate to strong light and good current. May not extend polyps after the following: handling, water changes, moving coral to a different location, or shipping. Leather Corals slough off an outer layer of tissue at regular intervals as an anti-fouling aid, and this is normal. Scientific name: Lobophyton sp. Common name(s): Scalloped Leather Coral, Finger Leather Coral Tips on care: Give moderate to strong light and good current. Sheds mucus just like Sarcophyton sp. Scientific name: Sinularia sp. Common name(s): Finger Coral, Soft Flower Coral Tips on care: Same as Lobophyton sp. This species is badly affected by high phosphate levels. Scientific name: Clavularia sp. Common name(s): Star Polyps Tips on care: Give moderate to strong light, and moderate tohigh current. Green species do best under strong light. In low light conditions they can lose their green color. Under good conditions Star Polyps will spread to adjacent rocks. Use of an Iodine supplement helps these corals do well. Scientific name: Cornularia sp. Common name(s): Clove Polyps Tips on care: Same as Clavularia sp. Scientific name: Xenia sp. Common name(s): Pulse Coral Tips on care: Give strong light and good current. Under goodconditions Xenia can spread rapidly, and seems to do best when ithas "room" to grow. This species is sometimes known to "crash", and Iodine supplements are essential to the overall health of Xenia. Problems have also been reported with shipping, so it might be better if you can obtain a specimen locally. Scientific name: Gorgonia sp. ( General ) Common name(s): Gorgonians, Sea Fans, Sea Whips Tips on care: Photosynthetic Gorgonians can be recommended to the beginner. They require strong light and strong current. The polyps can be fed occasionally with small food pieces like finely chopped shrimp, fish, etc. Photosynthetic Gorgonians usually have polyps colored green, tan, or brown. Polyps colored red, orange, yellow, or white are non-photosynthetic Gorgonians. Non -photosynthetic Gorgonians should be avoided by the beginner because of their heavy feeding requirements. HARD CORALS Scientific name: Lobophyllia sp. Common name(s): Tooth Coral, Meat Coral Tips on care: Give moderate light and moderate current. Can befed small pieces of fish or shrimp occasionally. Sensitive to stings from other corals. Scientific name: Trachyphyllia geoffroyi Common name(s): Open Brain Coral Tips on care: Give moderate light and low current.Occasionally can be fed with small pieces of fish or shrimp whententacles are expanded. Iodine supplements are essential to the overall health of this species. Scientific name: Symphyllia sp. Common name(s): Flat Brain, Tooth Coral, Lobed Brain Coral Tips on care: Give moderate light and low current. Can be fedsmall pieces of fish or shrimp occasionally. Scientific name: Turbinaria peltata Common name(s): Cup Coral, Saucer Coral, Vase Coral Tips on care: Give moderate light and moderate to high current.Can be fed with small pieces of food. Scientific name: Cynarina lacrymalis Common name(s): Tooth Coral, Doughnut Coral, Meat Polyp Tips on care: Give low to moderate light and low current. Can be fed occasionally. Is sensitive to other corals, so keep it away from other species. Scientific name: Polyphyllia sp. Common name(s): Slipper coral Tips on care: Place on the bottom of the tank in moderate to low light and low current. Can be fed brine shrimp or other small foods occasionally. Scientific name: Herpolitha limax Common name(s): Tongue Coral Tips on care: Place coral on the bottom of the tank in moderate to low light and low current. Coral can move around by inflating its tissue. Scientific name: Favites sp. Common name(s): Pineapple Coral, Moon Coral Tips on care: Give moderate to strong light and moderate current. Can be fed small pieces of fish or shrimp occasionally. Scientific name: Oulophyllia sp. Common name(s): Brain Coral Tips on care: Same as Favites sp. Scientific name: Favia sp. Common name(s): Closed Brain Coral, Pineapple Coral Tips on care: Same as Favites sp. Scientific name: Caulastrea sp. Common name(s): Trumpet Coral, Candycane Coral Tips on care: Give strong light and low current. Can be fed occasionally with small pieces of fish or shrimp. Scientific name: Euphyllia divisa Common name(s): Frogspawn Coral Tips on care: Give moderate to strong light and low current.This coral needs room to expand. Should be kept in aquariums 50gallons or larger because they can grow quickly. Scientific name: Catalaphyllia jardinei Common name(s): Elegant Coral, Elegance Coral, Elegans Coral Tips on care: Give moderate light and low current. Keep good calcium levels and add a strontium supplement (this should be done if you keep ANY hard corals). This coral needs room to expand. Should be kept in aquariums 50 gallons or larger because they can grow quickly. FALSE CORALS Scientific name: Actinodiscus sp. Common name(s): Mushroom Corals, Mushroom Anemones, Mushrooms Tips on care: This species comes in many sizes and colors. In general they prefer moderate light and low current. Red and blue mushrooms seem to prefer more light then most others, so you may want to give these stronger light. Iodine supplements are essential to the overall health of this species. Scientific name: Rhodactis sp. and Discosoma sp. Common name(s): Fuzzy Mushrooms, Giant Mushrooms, Elephant Ear Corals Tips on care: These are similar to the Actinodiscus sp., butthey are larger. Some species have small tentacles on the surface. Give moderate to strong light and low current. Can be fed small pieces of shrimp or fish occasionally. When fed Rhodactis sp. close up like a "bag" and consume the food. This is normal and when they are done they slowly open back up. Give these species room in the tank because they can bother other organisms. Scientific name: Amplexidiscus sp. Common name(s): Elephant Ear Coral Tips on care: This species is one of the largest species offalse corals. It can reach almost a foot across in some cases. Give it the same care as Rhodactis sp. and Discosoma sp. One word of caution, this coral may eat small fish that swim into its stubby tentacles. This species needs a lot of room. Scientific name: Ricordea sp. Common name(s): Ricordea, Florida False Coral, Mushroom Corals Tips on care: Similar to Actinodiscus sp. This species has small stubby tentacles on the surface of the "shrooms". Give moderate to strong light and low current. Green species prefer strong light. SEA MATS Scientific name: Zoanthus sp. ( General ) Common name(s): Zoanthids, Sea Mats, Button Polyps Tips on care: Many species of of Zoanthids available, most arehardy. In general give moderate to strong light and moderate current. Usually green specimens are from very shallow areas, so they prefer strong light. Some species can be fed with brine shrimp occasionally. Scientific name: Parazoanthus sp. Common name(s): Yellow Polyp Colony, Yellow Polyps Tips on care: Give strong light and strong current. Feed occasionally with small pieces of shrimp, fish, and brine shrimp. A NOTE ON FEEDING All the corals listed above can...for the most part, subsist on photosynthesis carried out by their symbiotic zooxanthellae algae. This is not to say don't feed at all, but feed conservatively. The corals that can be fed, should be fed. Feedings can enhance growth, reproduction, and overall health. Feedings will also help the corals nutritional needs along with their symbiotic algae. A few words of caution about feeding though. Since you are just beginning be careful, and feed conservatively. When you feed use a syringe or turkey baster to feed the target animal. DO NOT just add food to the tank. By using a syringe you can spot feed the target corals and little food is wasted. You DO NOT want to over feed, or just add food to the water because you will run into pollution problems. Remove ANY food that is not eaten by the corals. Remember...feed the corals, but feed conservatively. This will hopefully allow you to feed the corals without running into pollution problems. When you get the hang of keeping corals, good water quality, and gain more experience you can experiment with heavier feedings and feed more often.

I don't think you would want the bristle worm to be off, they are part of the cleaning crew in DSB, they are beneficial to a reef. Anyway, these fellow will be hiding deep inside the rock, thus the chances of you getting to them is minimum.

mmm.... nobody keep brain coral one?

you can get feather duster easily at any LFS and they cost only $1 a piece

Yes they are sold in Twin pack. If my memory never failed, I think Marine life sell it for $5 for 2 piece. It has been quite something I get the airstone as I don't use it anymore. Oh, there are 2 sizes also, get the bigger one.

Guys Need some advice on the care of the brain corals. I have purchase one yesterday and would like to know what is best for them. This is not the open brain type, but th ordinary type. I know it need Calcium, but what about light and current wise? Should I fed once weekly frozen mysis to it? Anyone who has keep it do share with me your experience. The brain that I have is greyish and is flourcent green where the mouth is. Thanks.

Tanzy, can you elaborate more on what you mean by setting it properly? I am now doing a macroalgae in my sump, I just put all the algae in the compartment, lighting on for 13 hours, same cycle as the main tank. Does that means properly setup please advised, thanks.

try the corallife one, they are value for money and much better than the sanders one in terms of the fine bubbles it produce. Of course same to all airstones, they need to be replace constantly in order to be effective. You can get corallife airstones from Marine life and Sealife.

well maybe I find myself color blind to pink, always find that the different shades are quite close well having say that, I have just started using the Salifert test kit, infact only once, hopefully with more practice, I am able to distinguish the PINK.

just to add, if you think Salifert test kit is high on prices, you could try Tetra NO3 test kit. The color code is very distinctive, it range from yellow->orange->light red-> darker red, unlike Salifert, it still show different shade of pink

I believe you can ask Sealife to bring in the Kent Venturi injector for you. Do bear in mind, these injector from Kent is big as compare to those found in Sanders Venturi Skimmer. Anyway, I did tried in the past to look for one venturi injector, but in the end, end up buying a new skimmer . If you have a friend that has the Sanders Venturi Skimmer, upon closer examination, you will see that you could easily fabricate the venturi tip.

Hi Guys I have attached the URL on the reef of the month from RC http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-12/.../totm/index.htm take a look at it, it will make you drool...... Take a look at the electricity layout, look like a switch box to me.... Enjoy.

Keith, LR do not need good lighting, infact if you are just keeping fish and no coral, then normal FL will be fine.

Keith, you tank volume is about 50 gallon, based on the 1 pound per gallon, you need about 22KG. Thus I would go for 15-20Kg of live rocks, that should be sufficient.

basically LR stacker is a DIY project, they are not available off the rack.

well thank for the reply, I really can sleep peacfully now...

Stenopus Hispidus, need some advice from you. Recently, my finger leather is not showing up with its polyp for like 5 days. It will expand in the day and then contract in the night, just like it did when its polyp are out. I did notice that the surface of the leather is shiny, so is this a normal cycle for a finger leather to behave in that way? Will the polyp grow back in a couple of days more? Please advised, thanks.

As for the propeller, can go and hunt for those radio control boat, should not be too difficult to get.... that is what the US people do it.

hi hydra, yep me thinking of getting the reeftec cos I see that guy could push out a lot of current at a lower speed and at a wider angle which should be able to cover the entire tank with just one of these. I was thinking of the redirecting nozzle, but was afraid that when I do that, the strength of the actual current in the tank will weaken and also the current stream will be a narrow one, unless I can get the duck shape nozzle, which can project the water stream like a fan shape, that should help a little. Mm... maybe we could ask AT to give us the dimension of the reeftec housing and then we will DIY it

well in most cases, shipping things out of US to Singapore is always expensive, unless you go for surface, which will reduced the shipping cost, but then you will have to wait for 3 months for it to arrive. Some mail order company do not charge you the exact cost of postage, they do a lumpsum charge, for such company, even you order a small and light stuff, you will still need to pay the premiun for the postage, my 2 cents worth.

Hydra, just to share with you, I have 2x1200 L/hr PH in my 4x2x2.5 and a 1060 from the sump. I still see that some about half side of my tank(towards the back) is still stangant. I will probably need another PH to direct water to the rear from the side of my tank, better still use a reeftec. For your case, it depend on how much rock you have, and how they are being arrange. I would position the PH and the return pump such that both of them are blowing water at each other or in opposite direction, this will create some form of turbulance, just my thought.