dandelion76

One of the very important rules: Threat most LFS (except a few own by knowledgeable owner) advise/opinion like a pinch of salt... listen, smile and walk away... and don't do that at home as you don't have abundant supplies of new LS to replenish those died ones. Read more and find out all necessary information before buying any lifestock. Be a responsible marine hobbyist. My 2 cents.

Item temporary reserved till this weekend.

Another view.

Hi, Have one very healthy red open brain for sale. About 4-5" size. It's growth too big and I have no more space for this guy already. Am looking at $45, neg. PM or SMS me at 96434976 if interested. Here's the photo taken just now (with my green spotted mandarin )

I attached mine with the soap water method. No problem at all. Once attached wipe it with a dry cloth to remove the soap water/air buble. Give it a day to dry and it will looks fantastic!

Hi Bro, Interested in ur red/mixed color zoos... please PM me ur offer price.

PMed u on ur frogspawn.

ya lor.. really hard to find... don't know where to find them, wonder why LFS don't bring them in... have to see if anyone have luck at east coast liao..

Back. Here's the answer.. It's not cheato... it's **** (can't remember the scientific name)... fast grower, suitable for fug, unlikely to turn sexual... But.... u gotta be careful with it n not letting it to spread to ur main display tank... dare not try my luck

I noticed that small bunch of chaeto like algae at ML too.... Mmm... thinking of going over to clarify with Henry liao... 5 mins on foot

Ya lor.. I had posted one few days back.. no reply... longing for some also.. need to add them as still have cyno and NO3 is pretty high too... dare not try cleulepra (how to spell?) coz worry about the becoming-sexual thing... let me know if u do find some around

OMG.. how come MH nowadays become so cheap liao... upz for ur sales bro!!

Lots of cyno... need macro urgently... Upzz...

Hi Reefers, Anyone has excess chaetomopha algae (aka spagetti algae) for sale/give? I need some for use in my refugium. Used to have some given by a kind reefer but due to improper fug design it crashed liao Now the fug modified already so should be alright this time Kindly please PM me ur offer.

Thank Eric and Nautical. The hammer is still alright after me been away for 5 days. Think the shade from the plastic sheet layers helped a lot. There's some improvement on both of them, althoiugh still bleach but at least now they are not totally transparant and open quick big as before. Think it will take some time to bring back the hammer completely.

Thanks bro for your valuable info. I agree with both of you that the bleach is likely caused by the suddent increased in light intensity. The hammers has been in my tank for almost 3 weeks, no problem when I put it directly under MH as I got it from a reefer who also used MH. When carbon was used 4 days ago, it could possibly cleaned my tank water (my tank water must be very dirty ) and caused a suddent increased in the light intensity. The poor hammer had no choice but to expel its zoo**** (how to spell?) So far I have placed a few layer of plastic bags on top of the hammers to reduce the intensity of the MH, looks fine to me, will remove them slower layer by layer over a few weeks time. Also target fed them with cyclop just now, before leaving for a 5 day trip tomorrow. Hope they will still be alive when I am home Thanks for all your valuable opinion

thanks bro. I am using PUR-II by AquaPharm. Didn't soak the carbon overnight, just ran it under tap water for about 5-10 sec (as told by the LFS). Then the carbon went straight into my tank. May be that's where the problem is? Leeched PO4? (I don't have PO4 testkit so can't confirm ) I will do more water change to dilute the PO4 concentration (or whatever polutant) in the water for the time being. However, how could I sustain the life of the poor hammer? target feed them everyday? Should I turn off the MH if the bleach is caused by suddent changed in light intensity?

Hi it's me again (having lots of problem with my tank lately ) To cut the story short, I added a pack of carbon into my tank 4 days ago, 2 days later my hammers are bleached. I am suspecting that the carbon cleaned the water up so much to the extend that the intensity of the light changed so much as to bleach the corals. The other LPS corals (bubble, brain) seems not affected too much though. So what should I do now to rescue it? Reduce photoperiod or turn off the MH completly (keep the actinic on)? Am leaving for a 5 day trip on Thur, will only be able to feed cycloplez during that period of time (fren helping, non-reefer so can't ask him to target feed them). Will they die when I return home

thanks bro Rav-65. Still lots to learn in keeping marine. anyway, this guy is already back to my main tank, looks like this guy is gonna recover fully in a week or two. Put it far far away from yuma liao.. scare this baby get sting again..

Thanks bro for your valuable info.

Hi, My DIYed auto top-off system failed last night and approx. 18 litres of fresh water was added to my tank over a period of 1-2 hours to my best guess. Specific gravity reduced from 1.024 the night before to 1.021 this morning. Checked the LPS (brains, hammer) and they isn't any unusual sign... replaced about 6 litres of water with new salt mixed at 1.024 this morning, and I was thinking of raising the salinity gradually back to 1.024 over 2 days period. My question is - will there be any harmful effect to the LPS if I do this? I know fishes will have no problem with this, but am not sure if the LPS can tolerate such a low sg. Your valuable opinion please. p/s: luckily didn't flood my living room, the floor is leveled so well that ALL the overflow water was drained THROUGHLY via a drain hole located 2 m away in the kichen attached to my living room Phew.... must thank the worker who did a fantastic job in leveling my house floor

Feed your brain with mysis prawn as the size is just right. Take a look at this thread to see how big its mouth can be when feeding. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...ic=24073&st=15&

Some update.. brain almost fully recover liao.. Still feeding it mysis almost everyday... it's about time to return this fellow into my main tank, gonna do it today

yes yes... damn big... palm size when fully open.

Hi PMed you on the following info but I thought I should post it here as well for sharing. ___________________________________________________________________ I would advise you to used polishing pad instead of grind stone to remove the scrathes(normal grind stone use either alumina or silicon carbide as abrasive, and they are not ideal in removing glass coz it's not hard enough). The pad looks like those soft pad normally use in waxing car body. Just apply a layer of diamond paste on it and it should work. Check with KEMET to see if they have better pad. Unless you are using extremly fine diamond wheel (<5 um of average grain size**), you will likely to create more scratches. Worst still, if the grind stone is too coarse, your will removed the glass by means of brittle fracture. so instead of getting a transparent clear polished surface you will get a whitish color, non transparent surface with lots of micro cracks . But it really take time to remove the scrathes as the whole idea of polishing is to removed the material - in this case glass - SLOWLY by the action of abrasive particles. Using fine abrasive will ensure small depth of cut, and hence one can remove the glass material in ductile mode (no brittle fracture, transparent polished surface obtained) although usually glass experienced brittle fracture (whitish non-transparent surface) when removed in larger deep of cut. As for the hard compound, if I remember correctly you will need a special tool to create vacumn in the crack area to ensure proper filling. Check with the workshop and they should know. Good luck to your repair. **: usually abrasive grain sizes are denoted by mesh size, e.g. #120, #1000, #3000 etc. To estimate the average grain size from mesh size, use this equation: Average grain size = 15.2/mesh size (mm) So for grain size of ~ 5 um you should be looking at #3000 mesh size diamond compound/grind stone.