kareen

no lah... I think what you mean is that different minerals has different mass... and this make the cal different from mineral to mineral in different form... I understand... Thanks for explaination of mg/l and ppm....

oh ya.. the usual slant design make it more room space to carry out work on sump.

For your reference.....

Morning Simon. From what u listed, is Mg higher ppm than SO4? I don't understand this part.... Also, how do we relate mg/l to ppm, the matrix we test on?

Why do u need this piece of glass? There will not be any sand at the first compartment so IMO no need this piece..... without that piece of glass, DO will be more likely to be suck in easier by the skimmer pump.

I think maybe your previous collapse is due to too many tangs... especially the last 4 and one of them is AT. Prior to the four, u already had blue and naso tang... which both are likely "king of tank" candiates and the last four addition destroy the peaceful world... If you intend to venture into reef world this time round... go slow on the fish. After the usual cycling, corals first.... leave there for months till u see coraline encrusted on rocks and little critters everywhere....

Jervismun, just some of my thoughts.... 1) Since your caretake is feeding a cup of the pre-prepare food u make, auto feeder food 1X per day enough 'cos better to feed a little less and create less pollution to the water. 2) although a little ugly, u may consider to use a bigger pail of water topup that last for 2 weeks for the meanwhile 3) Chk and make sure all water parameters are at higher level.... Eg. give KH about 12 and Ca about 450ppm, etc. Lastly, enjoy your trip.

think of it this way... the amount of top up volume verses the tank volume... how do they compare in term of ratio.... The only way it is possible to lower the tank ph is thru' long term no water change and additives.

That's add up to about 97.3% and does that mean that only 2.7% is calcium and bicarbonate ions left in water? Hm... does this sound right? I mean we all know the correct level of Ca is 380-420ppm.... Somehow cannot link information together...

What is the possible reason u think the seahorse passed away? infection? water quality? hunger? Do not get me wrong... just want to find out the likely cause and in future may serve some pointers to look out for the same situation.... It is not so easy to wean some stuborn seahorse on frozen.... long time ago when I had some common seahorses, there was just one which simply refuse and I had to keep small empty tank to grow coppepods....

it will be easier to get MgSO4, Magnesium sulfate aka EPSOM salt.... just walk in pharmcy and look/ask for EPSOM salt.

I don't think 30ppm nitrate is harmful for clam.... in fact, one will read that clam take in nitrate for photosynthesis.... 30ppm nitrate is very good level for soft coral and LPS....

Bump, for the last probe....

then r u going to do anything about it? If not, what will happen?

yeah... understand that.... I think this unique problem arise from "connected the German Schuko plug"....

wah... Gouldian... very complicated.... how can a simple digital timer run into electrical leakage problem identify by reverse poraliity....

Hm... it's FeSO4 reaction that eventually get Fe(OH)3... then what will happen to the SO4 left in water? Will this cause some ions imbalance with the increase of SO4?

I think need a pic so that people know whether it fits the application or not....

Do u mean the two pin plug? If there is leakage then turn and plug the opposite way?

Hi all! How this Fe(OH)3 come about? I mean the Fe in this case... And, will ozone achieve this Fe(OH)3 as well? I know ozone principle is to oxidizing stuffs in our tank....

is<~6month., definately still under warranty. For JBJ Nano Cube tank ~25gallon (1.5ft cube) including some live rock (may be -lr leave ~22gallon) which demonstrate able to bring dowm by ~2-3C. Initially, whitout IceProbe temperature running @31-32C(whole day) but after installed IceProbe the Temp down to 28-29C(day time) and 26.5-27.5C(night) hover around this region.

U r welcome. Do include in your plan how u going to service the display tank....

Depend how u view it.... for me, I will think of display tank volume and the sump vol is like the cleaning capacity.... but I will relate the size of skimmer pump to the overflow turnover rate. For eg. 50l/hr turnover using a 5000l/hr skimmer pump. This is extreme overated case and the water quality may not get improve due to the slow tunover overflow..... PS: adding sump vol into cal will lead to a higher capacity skimmer but the key point I will focus on is the overflow turnover rate and skimmer pump size.

The 3 metal plate that hold light is not at equal distance... This cause some imbalance that will need to work out on trial and error for the correct balance before mounting....

location?