shoelevy
SRC Member-
Posts
3,105 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by shoelevy
-
old sand of course usable u shouldb't haf used fish for cycling ah....ammonia spike will cause them discomfort ah yup...one fish by one fish is best
-
i haf got to do one of these wen i get my own home!!! bro is yrs a flat or private housing>??? so darn nice.....................drool!Z
-
u haf fish inside while cycling???...so mean! NO don't dump all at once add bout one per week should allow tank to slowly adapt to bioload u dump all at once...tank cannot handle bioload....few months down....CRASH
-
more nitrate means need to cut caulerpa more often to export the nutrients so more maintenance...hur hur i jus prefer spend some money every few months and not having to worry if phosphate is introduced through my top ups or ovefeeding by my mum since i'm not home most of the time...in army aniwae..i beleive u know wat u r doing la bro ancelot...but i guess yr setup isn't really suitable for me ba i'm sticking to my wool, rowa and coral chip power! hehe
-
oh...and regarding pros and cons issue....i haf to pt out one thing u said....u said po4 can be controlled by cleaning sandbed. 1)without organisms, some parts r quite inaccessible so can't really do tt well 2)with organisms...it may help reduce po4 but the increase in excretion results in higher ammonia which leads to higher nitrates....another problem is born not use rowa more nitrate....use rowa less but more costly get my pt on weighing/
-
ok ancelot...i raelly haf to agree with terryansimon on many of the things u mentioned...seriously..i think wool is darn important....it maybe nitrate factory but ref will take care of tt....nothin is perfect...u jus haf to see if the pros outweigh the cons for u to use it. jus like coral chips...i think its an alternate space for bac to grow but its a nitrate factory...i think the pro of having more bact from its surf area to grow on outweighs its con of being a nitate factory and i've got a ref to solve it...u get my pt on weighing the pros and cons? and seriously...rowaphos is proven by many i know and many i don't know but who've written articles on rowaphos...and its definitely worth it la....besides...i got 1ppm of po4 now...kinda high and i wanna reduce it to prevent or reduce the CHANCES of getting algae bloom or the extent of one if i do get it
-
wah so many quest to answer!!! ok i'm now in army net room hee so can surf awhile i'm relying on the die offs from the liverocks to cause an ammonia spike so i'm still waiting for the spike...if i detect it this weekend then yes...i am cycling...if not i add market prawn i cycling with skimmer to make sure its working....2 because some reefers sae it'd be good to run skimmer to remove detritus during the cyclnig stage...no harm with cleaner water rite/ i use rowaphos now cause i know po4 binds with liverocks and will leach with time...i don't want that so i'm running it now....besides, rowaphos box saes its better to run rowa during cycling stage so....ya
-
what causes coral bleaching?
shoelevy replied to shoelevy's topic in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
hm...my corals haf been with me for 6weeks now. i heard corals haf a slow metabolism rate...could it be that sth was already wrong 6weeks ago but due to its slow metabolism so now then it start bleaching??? i do suspect its my lights but i'm not sure so i asked...i'm using 2 t8 tubes 70W for 4 footer...is this low enough to cause bleaching? -
1) 1ft lights 2)the big square meter tt can read both ph and temperature sold at petmart for 150 3)Rowaphos
-
recently, my don't know wat coral...should be leather finger coral suddenly started bleaching i tested chem nh3 0 no2 0 no3 20 ph 8.3 temp 26 Ca 450 neve test mg cos no test kit my mushies doing very well....i did does trace elements but never above the recommended dosage...infact i dose 3/4 its been with me for 1.5 mths anione has any ideas y it suddenly bleached?
-
ok guys tonite i need to go back army camp hm...so pls be patient with my update of this thread ah...thanks
-
kaoz ahha well...must sae that's real brilliant
-
AHAHAHaha good one dude!
-
put right from start is best even rowaphos instruction saes so its to prevent po4 molecules from attaching themselves calcareous material...that is your lr...and in the future start leaching
-
also bought a kent marine glass cleaner SUPERB!!! cleans glass damn well...must better than those magnet cleaners...glass is like crystal! recommended to all....note the metallic blade used to scrub the glass....solid man i got mine medium size from sea***e. shold be a must haf for all
-
today i setup my FR!!! (fm93.3) yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah! put rowa phos in it....500ml worth used a weipro 300 little pump to drive it....initially rowaphos doesn't churn...was very worried i wasted my money....but after running 10mins....suddenly see lots of bubbles coming out from fr....then i know wat's going on!....there were bubbles in the rowaphos and sponge that restricted flow....after the bubbles were cleared...the pump was too powerful! haha so i tuned it down using its own built in control valve tuned down to min....now works like a baby
-
u seem to imply sth not fun AFTER the setting up...
-
yup will haf algae...i'll install sth to prevent algae from going in...don't worry hope people copy my ref concept...hehe...cheap and works!
-
by the wae...no one knows wat biozyme is for??? to start cycling or speed it up?
-
ya...talking bout base glass...besides...looks too compact with too much rocks...i don't like....will fill up gaps and empty places with corals ah...
-
ah....i don't exactly know the flowrate for top and bottom but all i can sae is bottom definitely stronger...aniwae...that's not for circulation, jus to prevent dead zones at the back so i don't really care about the flowrates out....haha...i'm using tunze for circulation...tha's wat i'm more concerned with. ok....regarding the siphon ah..first...yr water level in the refugium MUST be higher than tt in the sump so tt water alwaes flows from ref to sump through the siphon so won't overflow. 2nd...the siphon IN THE ref must be shorter than the length of siphon in sump 3rd...regarding preventing the siphon from breaking...siphons will break in 2 cases..when air enters the siphon or wen water level is equal. so u start off by filling the refugium to a water level equall to tt in the last compartment of sump....then u fill up the siphon with water...don't worry...it won't start ###### since water level is equal now on yr pump to the ref....as the pump pumps, water level in sump drops and ref rise...flowrate in siphon will thus start to increase and there will definitely come a pt when the flow through siphon rate matches the pump rate of pump and ref reaches max water level....if blackout, siphon will keep ###### until the water level drops back to where u started off from....tt's y my siphon in ref is so deep so if u understand and picture wat i'm saying...u wil realise the siphon NEVER sucks air in and will thus NEVER break and there will not be an oveflow prob the only trouble is u mustn't use a pump tt's too strong...reason is simple - if pump too strong, for siphon to suck at same rate, water level in refug must be very high...if yr ref is not tall enough....might overflow i use eheim 300...flowrate into the ref is about 200+L/hr
-
ah...my dad and i like this rockscape leh...we think putting more will make it look too compact....and my glass only 10mm....i don't wanna push it with more rocks hehe...so don't think i'm adding animore for now....but will post new pics if i do add more!
-
huh? 1inch is too small??? 3/4 inch can take a flowrate of higher than 4500L/hr leh. that's y i had to employ durso cos my pump pumping at 4500L/hr. since pipe can take higher u must make up by allowing pipe to suck air...so 1inch pipe can't possibly haf slow flowrate