shoelevy

i gotta 2nd the cocoworms growth i see them everywhere now and i tink its also due to the combovital i use

it depends if u wan softies, then 620 should be ok lps might need a 820 or even 1100 depending on your height and width if u wan sps, definitely 1100 and above i got 1 seio1100 for sale leh, u keen? also got a 620 that i might let go afte ri come bak from overseas

hey bro. i did wash the media before putting it in. sigh me and my itchy hands. just now i wanted to check if the circulation pump was stuck so i drained the cr and take out the pump. and it wasnt stuck. now i reconnect it and the fluidising effect is back -__- so now the cr is milky again! alamak guess i need to wait for it to settle down again. so i guess the culprit for that strong fluidising effect was not the pump but all the excess air that i didn't bleed out well initially ok bro, i will take note of measuring the kh in and the kh out as well, thanks for that input, didn't thought of it until u mentioned it bro, i do not understand this part "turn off CR or kalk dosing, measure how far the value drop, then multiply this value by your KH lost" what do i take to multiply to my kh lost? and what's the significance of the value calculated?

wa business so bad ah nowadays? jialat man come come, open to negotiations pls take note wun be ard in singapore from 1st-5th june

good job with the soaking! now that's why we need to soak the rocks the white stuff should somekinda filter feeder. its harmless the rest all throw! esp the worms!

hair algae grow got several of reasons no3 too high po4 too high silicate too high flow too low. u can't just target the problem by using kalk cos kalk causes precipitation of po4 which helps with reducing po4 and hence algae growth. however this is solving but 1 of the problems. IMO, it is best to solve the problem at its roots, and that is to get a bigger and GOOD skimmer...big but lousy no use big skimmer will churn out the organics before they degrade into po4 and no3. so my choice would be get a bigger skimmer, seriously man, u wun regret(if u get a good one that is)

upz another item to add on the list is weipro 4000 40W, 2700L/hr, moving parts are all new having replaced them myself using original weipro parts. $20/- can take both for $75/-

i find that high water movements can stimulate the sun coral to open without the use of other stimulants such as cyclopeeze. i used to put my sun coral directly infront of the seio620 and it open up nice nice so u can do that, and when u feed your fish mysis or brine, some of it will get blown by the seio in the direction of the sun coral and it will grab them and eat saves time on target feeding

hi bro thanks for the appreciation always glad to contribute esp when dealing with such ex equipment, i'm sure alot of people also would like to hear comments ok! u wanted the update well here it is something funny is happening! i left the CR to run on its own, guess what, somehow the media doesn't fluidise as violently anymore, the milkiness has CLEAR and the ph is actually still at 6.4... i seriously have NO IDEA why this happened, but one thing i can say is the strong fluidising action was probably what caused the cloudiness by kicking alot of rowa dust into the cr chamber itself. now the fluidising action has somehow on its own diminished and the cr runs clear and the outlet no longer chokes! but now that the fluidising action as dropped i guess....hmm...i also dunno wat to guess...lol, it just works fine now! i shall leave it to run and test water again

u can check this http://oregonreef.com/sub_worm.htm and http://www.netpets.com/fish/reference/reefref/bristle.html the latter link has this statement "In addition to feeding on left over food small crustaceans, and detritus from which they extract uneaten parts, bristle worms attack corals and sometimes other animals too (anemones are a good example of the latter). Because of the damage they do, they absolutely need to be physically removed from the aquarium. This can be quite a task and is not as simple at it seems at first as many of you may have found out over time."

actually, once bristle worms get big enough, then as with all creatures on this planet, they start to get bold, and with big appetite. then they start nipping your corals. u can do a search on another forum, there was a reefer who saw the bristleworm pull his sps off. so...bristleworm small is good, but once they get big, u better do something oh ya, another reefer has a worm burrow into his silicon and his tank leaked...so do keep these bugger's population in check. dun completely kill them, but do remove them once in awhile. i am using the coralife trap-em to catch the worms that i can see....it works man

the company is migoto go to yellowpages.com.sg and search the name u will find the contacts but call first before u go down...he usually out delivering

UPZ 91697799 is the number to direct enquiries

tigger, i used 1bb/sec to obtain sth like 6.5 tineng, its quite confusing for me cos another of my friend who uses the deltec says his cr also runs milky with rowalith. so i also abit confused sometimes. and i can't fill up with more media becos excess co2 bubbles will kick the media and then they will get to the circulation pump which might choke it. so...i'm still trying hard to figure out the CR perhaps i'm doing sth wrong here lemme tell you wat settings i use then perhaps u can help me abit last night i managed to hit 6.4, Cr was milky as it always has and the values of the effluent are as posted in the previous posting. i was bubbling at about 60bb/min. driprate was sth like 3/4 the vol of a continuous stream then alas, this morn i woke up it choked...and it was the milky powder that collected at the outlet. so today i try to increase the flowrate but that means i must increase the bb count. now its at 80-90bb/min and the ph is 6.6. i can't get it to clear up cos the moment it clears up, the ph is about 6.7 and the effluent is less than ideal. if i try to get it ideal at ph about 6.4 and below, it will run milky. so i'm also quite clueless to this. i can't help it if the fluidising action is so violent..., it comes with the cr. perhaps its meant to be used with ARM or sth any ideas?

i thought so too. that's why i'm trying to fine tune it. see how the effluent output will be. and i'll need time for that cos i'm leaving the country soon. hopefully the values will go up.

i got 1 seio1100 for sale 13watts, 4500L/hr $65/- (do your homework and u will know its cheaper than other people sell so no nego) come with box and all standard accessories can't remember exact date purchased but should be about 6-9mths old collection made at my place if interested in seeing my tank, or at boon keng mrt interested can pm me

aiyooo dun get too obssessed with these stuff la...imagine your tank so small got so many photos, those bros with 5ft 6ft tank going to siao liao. relaxxxxx, just leave them alone, some will live some will die, then after your tank mature leaw then u start looking at wat is left and decide if they are good or bad. eg, if its a tube worm, u will see it open etc etc some of the things now can confirm is not good. for me personally, i'd just take the rocks out and soak in freshwater 10-15min. leech po4 bo pian, the good thing is got po4 remover. better than 6mths down the road got some stupid crab, big worm or mantis shrimp running around inside, then by that time when u got fish and corals its gonna be SUPER hard to try to catch them, think bout it. BUT if your tank already got things inside like fish etc, then u better dun try this method cos its gonna kill off most of the good bacteria which converts ammonia to no2 then to no3....and u haf to cycle your tank after that. so if u already have fish etc, what u can do is...use EPOXY!!! paste over every damn thing that irritates you. i do that for the yellow hydriods in my tank. and it works

feed plankton??? u should feed it market prawn ma put at the tentacles...it will sense and grab it aniawe, how's yours water parameters like? does the tentacles sway gently?

lol eh frankly i no longer believe in brands after seeing my friend and my digi cam comparison he was using canon, set at 5mp i was using kodak at 2mp guess wat, his cam the shot was blurer than mine...and it was the lens at work cos i paid for the lens. so its best to do homework rather than rely on brand IMO

thanks boys. i tried shifting the clam to another position, seems to be better. i noticed its very sensitive to changes...i open my hood, or turn up the tunze etc it will react violently. perhaps still very stressed la.

alrighty, i do believe the tuning has come to be decent these are the values i get kh:30 Ca: 425 Mg (Grotech Mg media) :1125 ph:6.45 all test kits made using salifert allow me to share my experience during this period when i didn't update. i notice that once the ph drops below 6.7, the CR starts to run milky...and this presents a problem of choking the outlet. however, one should note that all CR tend to choke after some time of use. so i highly recommend a dosing pump as after i installed the SP3000 from aquamedic, the effluent drip rate is EXtremely stable. the milky appearance of the rowalith media is to my understanding, not an issue becos a few other reefers i know also haf this observations even though they use other CR brands. i think this concludes my review and i shall fine tune the values of the effluent output. thanks all! PS:the new CR has a probe holder, somemore selling at same price...DArn, should have waited abit more before i buy.

brittle stars also can all these scanvengers are fast in eating dead bodies

i bought a squamosa clam. its a healthy specimen not gapping full mantle expansion. but i notice a behaviour which kinda worries me alittle. occasionally, the clam will close tight shut fast and squirt water out. i'm not sure how often it does this and not sure why also this is Different from the normal reaction to a shadow or a fish swimming by. its a much more exaggerated reaction and that's y it worries me alittle. can i just check with u guys wat causes this? is this a normal reaction?

u might be toking about this VERMITID SNAILS http://www.xtalworld.com/Aquarium/hitchfaq.htm i haf 1 in my tank it webs at night, when the light comes on it pulls its web back u can also check http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rs/index.php http://www.reefs.org/library/aquarium_net/0897/0897_8.html

eh bro i just bought the 6100 today seriously, i now take back all the praises i sing for seio tunze rocks!!! even at min speed of about 3000L/hr it moves more water than my seio1100 which is supposed to move 4500L/hr if u got money, TUNZE!