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shoelevy

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Everything posted by shoelevy

  1. actually i've been thinking which is better for colours BLUE PRO or ACTINIC? they are very different in terms of appearance when u look at the lamps. any input?
  2. i've got a 2yr old blv 20kk bulb SE seriously its PAR should be really out so i dun recommend for coral growth use i just wanna offer it to anyone who is interested in seeing how does 20kk bulb colour look like if u dun haf the light setup but would like to see the different colours i sincerely welcome you to come my place see see if u wanna see colours now i haf XM10kk, blv 14kk and 20kk so interested can arrange to view at my place. but NOTE that the ONLY bulb giving away is the 20kk bulb thanks! the offer is up for 1week after that the bulb goes to waste bin my place is near reborn
  3. hm if i'm not mistaken pac coo the guy does this kinda thing he can make one external one for you.
  4. anyone has BLV14kk 250W SE bulb under or near 3mths old to give up? pls contact me thank you! btw i'm also looking for salifert po4 test kit.
  5. hi bro i find that my mushrooms need blue lights. i used to run just mh without blue lights and i had a rock of mushrooms that slowly faded away. after i introduced blue lights, they started opening big and recovering. i also noticed that they preferred iodine dosing...when i dose, they reproduced very fast compared to when i stopped totally. and i do believe mushrooms prefer slightly dirty water because from my observation, they seem to do better before i changed to a beckett. that's all i can contribute for these corals
  6. alright, in my concluding review, now the ph is running at 6.25 for the past day the readings frmo the effluents are Ca 500 kh 45 so that's it from me for this CR thanks
  7. o ya just to add i am also looking for tunze 6000/6100 if u haf can also pm me pls
  8. hi guys i am looking for the tunze single or multi controller if u haf one to let go pls pm me will reply all pms asap
  9. i tihnk for 3ft 8mm is ok 4ft is 10mm 5ft is 12mm thickness seems ok to me but the price i am not sure...why not just wait for someone in pasar malam to sell? quite a few recently
  10. for pumps, i recommend petmart, seriously the best price u can find for fr, i recommend the skimz range from aquamarin for chiller i also recommend cl650 from aquamarin for skimmer, i recommend the beckett bullet range characterised by the big reaction box. i think aquamarin also carries this for lights, this one no particular recommendation, there's the cheap but problematic one, there's the good but see-price-u-scared one but i would go with DE lights...used for 2yrs no problem for Cr, no recommendation as i still tuning mine for lifestocks i recommend easier ones from shops...tougher ones get from fellow reefers better...more stable and trustworthy btw, plan your fishes properly, becos if u end up not liking them, u will haf super hard time trying to catch them out later...so plan wisely..for me, i just dun buy fishes anymore, except the really pretty,peaceful or neccessary ones
  11. oh ya let the beckett suck everything means no need to use wool, the beckett should do that job of ###### out dirt as for coral chips, get rid of them! in the long run thy will trap dirt which will decay giving u a headache with no3. the liverocks and sandbed should have enough bacteria. the coral chips would be insignificant cheers
  12. yo lara get a beckett, then u can do away with everything in your sump including your refugium or wool the other day chuky saw my sump also ma, all empty, its just there for the circulation pumps and dosing of stuff. let the beckett suck everything out for u and its kept my no3 at 0ppm ever since. i run a tank of same size as you so trust me and the others when we say weipro cannot keep your nutrient level in check...esp with so many poo-factories, your tangs as for your tank thickness, mine is same as yours and used for over 2yrs. mine is fully eurobraced top and bottom. the previous owner had 200kg of liverocks inside and was ok for 10mths. when i took over i didn't dare to fool ard so i put only 100kg. up till now still very good. just dun lean the rocks on the walls or stack them too high incase the thickness is really not enough for chiller i use resun cl650 for 2yrs on this tank. its been able to keep my temperature at 27-29degrees running on aquabee3000 pump. judging from the bill the chiller alone takes up $15/- for elec bills IF you plan on keeping your tank temperature similar to mine, it hink cl650 is a good buy, otherwise u should go for c0500 which is the next bigger resun model anyway, judging from your past tank photo, u seem quite experienced! u should do fine la no worries. but if u ever need advice can alwaes pm me or the bros here. all happy to help
  13. if u dun wan it to rot inside then get a worm trap or build one then trap it
  14. hm if u soaked for 45mins i tihnk the wormed died inside last time i did that also and the worm never came out, but it never showed up ever again so i think it died inside.
  15. my eheim pumps are quiet. i haf 3 of them and so is my md55
  16. no la no need CR for soft coral but u still need to monitor your Ca and kh levels butterfly is not reef safe
  17. hmmm can i ask u sth? if u had mushrooms on the rock WHY u go and FW dip!!!! that would surely kill your mushrooms ma!!! alamak! if u wanted to catch the worm u can try using bristleworm traps. i bought mine from EAN and it works! caught a few small ones and 1 big one before. i mean heyyy, fw dip to get the worm out is for rocks without corals growing on them ma.
  18. aiya nowadays business so bad i lugi abit la $10/- only! 40W, 2700L/hr all moving parts changed! what more can u ask for! (except a lower price)
  19. u got slowly acclimitise it to the new light? meaning first day mayhbe on the mh for 3hrs, then slowly increasing the photoperiod by 1 hr each day? i think this practise is important
  20. say say say say hoooo! so i finally realised the strong fluidising action was caused by the presense of all the excess air bubbles trapped when i drain the cr and filled it up with water again. and that caused the Cr to become milky. by following the steps below for proper excess air removal last night, my cr runs clear now 1)drain the whole CR 2)fill up the CR by feeding it WITHOUT turning on the eheim pump (leave it to run with the outlet FULLY OPENED for about half a day or a few hours at least, this will drain off the bubbles) i left it overnight 3)on the eheim pump for about 1hr (with the outlet fully opened) and it was clear already! i'm already re-introducing co2 but unfortunately i am leaving the country later so i can't update with the CR effluent output. nonetheless, i shall comeback and test the effluent to update this thread. next ph i should be aiming for is 6.2-6.3 cheers
  21. seio1100 reserved for wlchew
  22. air pump? u wanna use it to pump air? then u gonna get lots of salt spray and dirty your whole house your got protein skimmer rite? that one should provide adequate oxygen already no need to air pump one
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