-
Posts
452 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
19
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Otaku Reefer
-
nitrophos sold, upz for rest Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
yes, agree with Rob, gasping for air is one sign of parasites as they attack the gills, if they start swimming against the power head its also highly likely velvet its strange you didnt add anything but still got this sudden outbreak after 7months. Do note anything wet u add got risk, its not limited to fish. if u go LFS buy coral or invert and u see the fish is infected, its best u do quarantine the coral in a fishless tank for few weeks. Its possible the parasite is free swimming and happen to attach to the coral or inverts u buy. U probably will need to do copper treatment in another tank and leave the tank fallow for 1-2months to be safe. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Nitrophos minus - $8 (80% left) exp 2022 API master test kit saltwater $20, nitrate test left 40%, rest is about 80-90% left exp 2022 tetra nitrate test left 90% - $10 interested PM or watsapp 92three5three223 self collect admiralty thanks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
On ~4 inch frag disk, $20 interested PM or watsapp 92three5three223 Self collect admiralty Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
personally i tink go for chiller is the right decision, normally whatever is rated, u need to include buffer, advertiser normally like to overestimate their stuff. no harm buying a bigger chiller as u just waste abit of upfront money rather than u buy something under rated and cant work, waste even more money. thermoelectric dont think even good for nano, for pico maybe yes. for the price point i rather buy a hailea chiller from taobao. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
thanks bro Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
hi bro, maybe its too near the surface and sucking in the air? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Hi reefers, Any place to recommend which can repair AI lights? My prime LED driver or power supply seems to have problem, cannot go to 100% for all channels on together, but if only on individual light they able to go 100%. Puzzling... TIA [emoji120] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
reserved by steady bro Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Hi reefers, Got a stable frag of GSP for sale about 2.” $10 interested PM or watsapp me at 92three5three223 self collect admiralty area thanks. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
thanks for interest, all taken by steady bros Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Hi reefers, Selling stable frags of RPE $10 each 2 frags to let go. Can see new polyps growing total about 7-8 polyps self collect admiralty PM or watsapp me at 92three5three223 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Is this brooklynella?
Otaku Reefer replied to jonanaz's topic in Disease treatment/parasite/pest control
Just sharing on what i would do 1. From ur pics, it seems not serious, maybe not even disease, maybe sand or scratches. 2. Before u start any treatment, think of any reason why ur fish is infected? did u intro new fish or something? if not maybe its not disease. 3. Generally clownfish are tough buggers. they can take a bit of beating unlike the tangs which can GG fast. I would monitor first to see if it worsens, if worsen to picture below i would take action. Monitor their appetite and breathing. 4. Its best to set up quarantine for treatment. My clowns infected by brook b4, i did a freshwater dip to alleviate the condition, how to dip? you can ask mr google for more info. for me i take rodi water and let the fish swim inside for 3mins, include airstone for oxygenation. monitor closely for stress( heavy breathing) stop immediately if there is. 5. after dip, transfer to QT, i treat with copper( cupramine) dosage go slow. 6. lastly, disclaimer: as every lifestock response is different, i cannot guarantee the outcome, pls proceed at your own risk. I am just sharing what i did. Good Luck bro! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app -
most got special diet requirements, u buy u can only probably keep for a while, these are better left in the ocean, only exception is the berghia nudi, which is obligate apitasia eater but once no more apitasia means will also starve. Some nudis are also pest and will eat corals so be careful. My Rule of thumb in reefing: if most reefer not keeping and its not due to price tag; better dont buy haha.. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
sorry its not 90L, its 90G system, ATO is 18L Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
it depends on your location i tink, for me i put in cool corner of the house, with chiller set at 26 deg C i find the evaporation is very little, and if u not running wet skimming, no need to top up ato so often, plus SG is humid place. But if running the tank in aircon room den i cant comment as aircon room is more dry. For my 90L system, my ATO is 18 L only, i top up once in awhile i tink every 2weeks plus. Its usage is so low that i had to cover it up, if not mosquito breeding inside. Just sharing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
reserved by steady bro Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Red people eaters $10 (9-10 polyps) GSP $10 Take both $15 Self collect woodlands interested PM or watsapp 92three5three223 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Hi reefers, Just trying this mixing method for red sea alk and Ca powder(CB got too much free time to think lol) Tool: 2 measuring cylinders 1 big 1 small 2 plastic spoon. Materials: Red sea Alk and Ca in powder form Step 1: Mix required amount of Ca powder into small container Step 2: Put required amt of ALK powder into big container Step 3: put the smaller container into bigger one as shown Step 4: start gentle mixing using plastic spoon; make sure dont splash and cause the Ca solution fall into Alk solution and vise versa. Explaination: Ca power mixing generate a lot heat while Alk mixing is cold. Heat from Ca solution will go to Alk solution. Based on thermodynamics, Alk becomes heat sink thereby helping both solution to dissolve faster. Reefing is really a cool hobby; its Art(colors and scape) Science(water chemistry) and Biology( fish and coral) mix into 1! think this is a also a way to get concentrated of Alk solution similar to the premix one sold. Hope this don’t sound stupid haha! Pls be careful, if the ca solution topple into the alk, it will be GG as become insta Calcium carbonate! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
i agree with other reefers seems to be bacteria bloom. i tink no need so drastic change salt since ur tank still cycling and no lifestock. the salt contains bacteria i tink, not sure it contains any polymer for carbon dosing as well, maybe other more experienced reefers with the AF method can advise. my opinion is u should stop dosing bio S first and monitor if it improves? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Probiotic salt is inbuilt carbon dosing i tink, maybe adding to ur problem? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
my tots on wavemaker currently i using nero5 and rossmont, both bery good wavemaker and can push alot water and quality made. i prefer nero5 as it can push more water and the app user friendly, rossmont also got app but dont seem to work with IOS not sure they fix already... could be also i noob duno how to use lol.. For nero5, a good wavemaker and all under 1 roof app with my other AI equipment, the major problem with nero5 is the back grid holes are too large and can kill fish, my mandarin was killed when he/she go near the powerhead to hunt copepods. to address this i DIY a eggcrate cage and surround the nero5, dun look nice but gets the job done. After more monitoring i suspect the fish death is not due to the back grid too big but its due to the nero5 programming cos i see the nero suddenly stop moving and restarted, probably due to the standing wave program or something. so when the wavemaker stop moving, the fish go in see see look look den wavemaker suddenly start and fish GG. this makes alot sense to me as healthy fish dont go near wavemaker to get pull, even if kenna pull, healthy fish should be able escape no problem. i change the programming since and never saw it stop again. nero5 also bery easy dismantle and easy to clean and put back, overall a good wavemaker, didnt use ecotech b4 so cant compare. i also hook up nero5 to battery backup coral box v2 i tink, best is check with vendor which one compatible with nero 5. With battery backup got pc of mind when u not at home in case power trip. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
my tots on quarantine, i think its very important step to prevent tank wipe. Plus i fortunate enuff my CFO let me keep 2 tanks lol. my QT tank is a nano tank about 12 gallon. my philosophy is QT tank is with rock sand and media. i think number 1 reason why fish die in QT is not becos of disease but due to ammonia so i choose to address this by QT with rock sand and media. my QT regime is cupramine 2 weeks follow by prazipro 2 weeks. cupramine i dose super slow, think quarter dosage. As for cupramine absorb by rock sand, i do use carbon after every treatment plus water change. i also QT inverts and corals in same tank without issue. i think the key is carbon and ample water change after every cupramine treatment to remove the copper and using the salifert copper test kit to check the level. during cupramine treatment, observation is very impt, see if fish eating well, if ok den dose abit more cupramine and go slowly. sometimes i see white spots appear which is ich, but dont go gan chiong and dose more, just observe first. normally the spots will go away after few days in treatment. if u see no spots, don’t celebrate yet, the ich might be hiding in gills or in egg form somewhere. i would perform a water change to reduce the cupramine conc and observe another 2 weeks, if no spots comeback should be ok liao, den start prazipro treatment for 2 weeks. During this period, i would observe the fish everyday i get back from work, using a blue color torch light to shine on the body. you will be able to see the ich easily if present. lastly, is to get healthy fish, my best exp is with Specialized aquatics, their fish is generally healthy and they do quarantine before hand already base on my knowledge, hence their more expensive pricetag. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
my tots on dosing, initially thinking of calcium reactor vs 2 part dose, calcium reactor got the CO2 tank which is huge no no to me as i no car and i dont wan drag a CO2 tank ard in public transport so i went the 2 part route, then i also thinking of trace element dosing and decided on the red sea ABCD, my personal opinion is that is works, as i witness my reverse sunset monti color up within few weeks of dosing, previously i was doing 5% WC and nothing color up. For my big 3 dosing, i settled in on the red sea ABC, for mag my consumption super low(measured on aquaforest kit) so i didnt dose mag, for my alk and calcium, used to be doing liquid form but since switched to powder form for cost control lol.. on the kamoer doser, it really save my day as i dun wan to manual dose everyday, and the dosage can split to multiple times a day for safety buffer. just need to double check the calibration and see if tubing got clog by the alk deposits every few weeks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
-
Still learning here, just share some of my tots on the tank build Regarding the fuge and ATS, i started this route since day 1 since i tink nature method for nutrient export is less aggro than chemical method. i just add carbon and small amount of gfo in a mesh bag and dump into sump for phosphate control, base on my limited exp, i feel cheato and ATS can control nitrates very well, i seldom test for nitrates as they always come up yellow on the api test kit. But for phosphate not so well as i cant get below 0.1ppm base on natural export method, with GFO can get below 0.1. Den i also read on red field ratio so i guess nature has its limitations. For ATS flow and light is critical, i started off with china ATS unit but seems to do nothing and i worry the light not well built will have short circuit risk as light is exposed to water splashing,so i totally dump the lights and go for AI fuge. Then i see the GHA start to grow, but certain parts still yellowish looking and i read is due to low flow and i upgraded the pump flow. once i switch to the good lights and higher flow, GHA start to grow well, it will take time, but once it start it will be exponential, and my display the algae use to grow like weed on the rocks start to recede, with a old school method of toothbrush and siphon, the remaining algae is removed. Any new growth is taken care by the yellow tang and foxface. photos shows about 10days worth of growth for GHA on algae scrubber Cheato harvest every 2 weeks. And also those who say u need a fuge for critters i also tink is not true lah, i see a lot amphipods, (yes the big amphipods, not the small copepods)hanging out on the GHA on my ATS, i believe the key u must get good growth for the critters to go there. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app