Otaku Reefer

rpe reserved. Upz for FF digi Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

RPE - $10 (per frag) FF digi - $10 (per frag), some portion white due to shading, will recover with proper position. Get both $15 WYSIWYG, orange filter with no extra edit. Self collect admiralty, PM or watsapp 92three5three22three Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Dont think this is first case, End of the day, willing buyer and willing seller, newer reefers need to stop impulse buy syndrome, do more research, walk ard LFS to know market price. Download telegram and buy corals via auction or sale, much cheaper this way. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I currently use red sea apitasia X, it cannot totally eliminate but what i tink helps is frequent application to keep the population under control. The problem with chemical method is that it destroys the apitasia but during the process the apitasia will spread its offsprings maybe in last ditch attempt to survive. what i think is more effective when using chemical control u need to apply more, ensure surrounding areas all covered to kill any offspring apitasia, plus remember to off pump and wavemaker and let the chemical do its work, if u on the pump premature, it will spread the chemical around ur tank and in the process spread the apitasia. You can refer to youtube BRS which they recently recommend a product call F- apitasia lol, this is little bit different as it will harden thus preventing any offspring from spreading. Biological control is always hit and miss, for peppermint shrimp not 100% effective always, dependent on species, plus if u have any large shrimps in ur current tank like skunk cleaner they may harass the peppermint to death. Also peppermint do not work well in high flow tank is wat i found, if ur tank is high flow, think they tend to hide 1 spot and not do its job. Just sharing, hope it helps, good luck bro! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

google vermetid snail and check if its a match. Not exactly harmful but its filter feeder by throwing “spider web” like stuff to capture food in the water column, this can irritate corals. I use super glue the tube hole so it cant come out feed and starve to death inside, but this method is not 100% as they seem to be able to build another tube. Hope it helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

zoas reserved by fast hand fast leg bro [emoji41] upz for Forest fire digi! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi reefers, Selling excess frags, price is per frag. RPE -$5 Green zoas -$5 Forest fire digi -$5 WYSIWYG, with orange filter, no extra edit. Keen pls PM or watsapp me 92three5three22three Self collect admiralty. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Did ur bengal cardinal take pellet food? they can be quite difficult to feed, mine exclusively eat only live or frozen food, it spits dry food out. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Its normal. Like hermit crabs, skunk cleaner shrimps are opportunistic scavengers, they will gladly eat if there is free meal available. Anyway healthy fish can get away quickly so i dont think the shrimp attacked a healthy fish. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Did the pump died becos u leave it out of water or switch off for period of time? maybe its the impeller stuck, can try to do some maintenance to see if able to help. My china made skimmer pump also behave like this, just dismantle and assemble again fixed the problem. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks for sharing, do u notice any adverse reactions from the corals due to the high MG? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I got it from FNM, but pls check if they have in stock before going over Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

dont think its tux, tux probably cant move a clam or big corals, seems like moving towards the cave to cover the entrance, probably u got a hitchhiker egg now hatch liao, maybe its pistol shrimp or mantis shrimp? any weird sounds coming from the tank at night? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

cant really tell, probably u shld switch to whiter light to take photo, alternatively u can go google check apitasia picture and u will know the answer. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Sorry to those interested, all sold. [emoji120] Thanks to SRC, pls close thread. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

upz! open to trades as well. Do note pricing is for per frag NOT per polyp. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Some typo in previous post. These are important parameters to track as will influence the algae growth in your display. Besides algae, nitrates and phosphate also can affect how ur corals look. Based on understanding, higher nutrient the zoozanthelle will be more so corals appear darker, with lower nutrient zoo is less so color is lighter, old school reefers with sps dominant run Ultra low nutrient system (ULNS) and the sps will give a pastel look. That being said, i would not recommend to chase the numbers but to keep nitrates and phosphate low. How low is low is up for debate, it depends on ur coral type loading. SPS require lower nutrient level to thrive and LPS/softies can tolerate higher nutrient. Its hard to say what values to shoot for as there are reefers with SPS dominant with higher nutrients level if u read the forums. i myself running mix reef with sps lps and softies. i adopt a heavy in heavy out system so means the corals have chance to access to these nutrients before being taken out of system. i would recommend to keep nitrates 5-10 ppm and phosphate less than 0.1 I would say being consistent is more important, if ur tank going roller coaster in terms of nutrient, would say corals will not like it. If your tank is matured, bio load is not changing much and tank pack of corals, i tink u should not have to worry as these parameters will be stable. unless of cos u do something drastic or try some new method of nutrient addition or reduction. if ur tank is new, like less than 3 months, and u jam pack corals in short space of time, u should probably keep a close eye as ur nutrient export like ur bacteria is not fully establish and ur nutrient import like the fish list is not yet finalized. my 2 cents. hope helpful to u. Happy reefing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

These are important parameters to track as will influence the algae growth in your display. Besides algae, nitrates and phosphate also can affect how ur corals look. Based on understanding, higher nutrient the zoozanthelle will be more so corals appear darker, with lower nutrient zoo is less so color is lighter, old school reefers with sps dominant run Ultra low nutrient system (ULNS) and the sps will give a pastel look. That being said, i would not recommend to chase the numbers but to keep nitrates and phosphate low. How low is low is up for debate, it depends on ur coral type loading. SPS require lower nutrient level to thrive and LPS/softies can tolerate higher nutrient. Its hard to say what values to shoot for as there are reefers with SPS dominant with higher nutrients level if u read the forums. i myself running mix reef with sps lps and softies. i adopt a heavy in heavy out system so means the corals have chance to access to these nutrients before being taken out of system. i would recommend to keep nitrates 5-10 ppm and phosphate I would say being consistent is more important, if ur tank going roller coaster in terms of nutrient, would say corals will not like it. If your tank is matured, bio load is not changing much and tank pack of corals, i tink u should not have to worry as these parameters will be stable. unless of cos u do something drastic or try some new method of nutrient addition or reduction. if ur tank is new, my 2 cents. hope helpful to u. Happy reefing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

i running hydras and disco is minimal, AI lights has some kind of diffuser in place(i tink). if u really worried disco, u can tune down red green and run mostly blues, with only 1 dominant type spectrum the blending will be ok. Just my 2 cents. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Time for some update. Measured nitrates and phosphate Nitrates- ard 0.2ppm Phosphate - 0 ppm Phosphate hit rock bottom, not good for corals will monitor first as i have heavy bio load, ard 14 fishes for 4 foot tank. Hopefully its heavy in heavy out. Now to explain my export system ATS, Refugium and little bit GFO and 2 AI fuge as light source. Some reefers might say its too much to spend on refugium light, but i followed the logical recommendation from BRS “ How to outcompete the display tank lights when your fuge light is fraction of the costs?” Makes sense actually need the correct spectrum and strong lights to make sure the algae grows in sump instead of display. So far its managing my nutrient well without any carbon dosing. In fact i suck at carbon dosing as most corals react badly due to aggressive nutrient reduction. ATS Its taobao ATS but i since ditched the lights and convert to AI fuge light. Just worried for poor worksmanship resulting in short circuit risk. better safe than sorry. And the tabao lights the growth is cmi compared to AI fuge. Running a bit yellowish, indication of 3 things, not enough flow, too high light and too low nutrient. My flow just upgraded so shld be enuff. Should be light too close. Running full red spectrum Refugium The red sea tank is good but 1 bone to pick is their sump really small. The refugium also very small surface area. What is lacking in surface area, i compensate with power running good lights. The lights must be strong as to penetrate the cheato as its suffers from serious self shading. i normally will make effort to spread out the cheato evenly to cover every inch so every portion is exposed to photosynthesis. Refugium growing cheato. No fanciful spinning cheato, as i cant get it to spin [emoji23] why some reefers get it to spin is not because it looks cool but to expose the cheato evenly to light. It also looks cool btw [emoji23] GFO I used to run without GFO and my phosphates hover around 0.1-0.2ppm range. Cant seem to get it to go below 0.1 range without GFO. i think its red field ratio and nitrates limitation. Will consider taking this offline as now phosphate very low. Mineral Mud I got run mineral mud or “miracle mud” in fuge, duno got Ho Siao ppl or not, but since alot pro ang moh reefers use, i gave it try. cant really comment on its effectiveness as i start from day 1. I also use this mud to create a deep sand bed for denitrifying bacteria. I purposely add bristle worms to it and alot micro fauna copepods and amphipods. DSB without microfauna got risk for release hydrogen sulphide when stirred. Mechanical filtration Running 2 filter cup for mech filtration. recently trying out my cheatofloss. Since cheato good at mech filtation and my tank alot light spill, why not? So far its growing, additional space for cheato growth. Another cup still running filter floss balls from sera for additional water polishing. Skimmer I would consider this essential piece of equipment as most rubbish gets pull out before chance to foul water. Running red sea skimmer, so far pulling alot gunk but 1 thing i dont like is the skimmer cup is very tightly bound so must take out whole skimmer to clean...Not maintenance friendly. Looking to try the ATAS nyos quantum if got good deal next time. Ok enuff for the blabbering. Some tank shots Got this new leather. Hopefully the polyps grow longer like the weeping willow. [emoji23] The info shared is just based on my experience and observation and lots of youtube video learning, i would say its not a definitive guide (as i may be wrong as well) and in reefing there are many ways to get things done. Just find a method suitable for you and enjoy the hobby! Thanks for viewing and happy reefing! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

RPE-$10 Green Zoas -$10 FF digi -$10 Buy all -$25 Self collect admiralty interested PM or watsapp 92three5three22three. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

pods should propagate by themselves and no need pay special attention Reasons for pods disappearing 1. Species of pods; depends on the species, some require special conditions to thrive like need phytoplankton as food source or special habitats. Some species is self sufficient by feeding on detritus, leftover fish food, fish poop and algae on glass. this kind can survive in our reef tank no problem. i personally purchase tisbe pods and they seems to do fine. i dont have good luck with tigriopus califoricus. also known as tiggerpods. alot overseas reefer also did not have success if u check the overseas forum, they just disappear over time. mine gone in 1-2 days in the refugium without predation. not really sure the root cause, i suspect this species require phyto to thrive. if u wan save money get from other reefer with establish cheato, will normally have pods (but it might come with other pests). Another type is call amphipods, these are BIG pods, look like under water cockroach, these normally no need buy, will always be hitchhike in cheato or coral frags. U can google the pictures, these are reef safe and good cleanup crew. good food for fish also haha. 2. Got predator fish like mandarin goby decimate the pod population faster than it can reproduce. just sharing my personal experience, hope got help u. happy reefing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi bro, think u need to check your water first. For new tank, not advisable to add corals so fast, wwc cycle their tanks for 4 months! u really need to let your tank mature first along with your bioload to stabilize. u need consistently measure your big 3 Alk, calcium , magnesium along with nitrate phosphate to ensure the parameters are stable 1-2 months before its fit for coral, another indication is u start seeing coralline algae growing which is another indicator of system able to support coral calcification. also advisable to invest in RODI and do ur own salt mix. keep to a regular Water change schedule like 5-10% water change weekly or biweekly and stick to it. Next up is flow, sps need high flow but not direct bashing flow or tissue will STN RTN, aim your powerhead near the surface or use pulsing mode so its gentle on coral, if ur sps has polyp extension, its good to see the polyp moving randomly most of the time means the flow is probably just about right. For light, sps can tahan about 300-400 par but probably depends coral to coral. you really need to use a par meter, u can probably rent from other reefers or exchange for frags for their service. need to avoid hotspots which is common for led point source pucks. too high light can cause coral bleaching. if unsure always start with lower light intensity rather than high light intensity. Most important is to get ur water chemistry right first before u move on to check other stuffs otherwise u will be turning around in circles. Hope got help u. i would advise u stop buying corals now and try to find out whats wrong to save some $$. corals are not cheap. Good luck! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Not expert here, but i wouldnt do that, i guess it should be some kind sodium bicarbonate or carbonate, if u use saltwater, it will precipitate out as ur saltwater contain calcium. Dont think will affect salinity as normally for dosing regime is slow and in low amounts. You wouldnt want to dose in large amount to cause swings in ur dkh. Not sure how this is different from traditional 2 part but 2 part dosing can cause salinity to raise over time as sodium chloride is formed as byproduct. You probably should take the formulae with a pinch of salt, its hard to estimate the actual tank water volume. For me i would use the formulae den half the calculated dosage, pls measure ur dkh pre versus post after continuous dose for few days so u know how much per gram reef builder raise ur dkh/day. Take it slow, if ur demand is not high and ur tank is nano, recommend not dose anything at all and just do WC. WC is old school but its gold. Hope it helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

why u wan to avoid that? if can breed even better, means ur tank is tip top. plus more cleanup crew always helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app