Otaku Reefer

Best to go for sump and avoid IOS, very space limited to put equipment and makes it very cluttered. I had both and never going IOS route again Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Sorry for your loss, happen to me too, scooter blenny jump out through the smallest gap, i tot wouldnt happen but it did. Need to cover all the gaps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

i also use dry rocks from the start, caribsea purple dry rock, dont think that part of caribsea rock is true, my rock encrusted with coraline algae. alot ppl tend to conclude stuff without proper apple to apple comparison, so take with pinch of salt. Most important in reefing is patience, i have a QT system which i do nasty stuff to it and corraline algae just cant grow. once i stop all the funny stuff and just maintain proper schedule, i start to see corraline liao. Its all about parameters stability and things will grow eventually. Just need to be patient and slowly add fish coral. Hope it helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Never used or heard this salt before. May i ask whats the reason to change? costs? parameters? ease of mix? I changed mine from royal nature salt to tropic marin pro due to mixing issue. i find royal nature salt tends to clump after a while, tropic marin pro mixes very well and easy after awhile although its more expensive. End of day, salt is just salt, more expensive salts might have more QC in place which justifies its more expensive price tag. So u gotta ask urself, whats the reason to change? Does this change justify the risk taken? If not, dont fix what aint broken . Got a youtuber use a salt change water and a lot corals die, he blame the salt, but i dont know whats the conclusion. My opinion is to stick to those popular salts lah, in the unfortunate event u need to decom, den the salt more sellable loh, if its ulu brand think most reefers tend to stay away. Hope it helps u! Just my 2 cents Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I think there is 2 workarounds, dose nitrate to correct the imbalance. 2nd is feed exclusive frozen food as frozen is more natural so will contain the correct nitrate to phosphate ratio. Dry food contains additives that might skew the ratio. Just my thinking though. Both methods seems not very practical haha.. i think adding fish will not help cos u feed more dry food and the vicious cycle again.. another more cost effective method is dose lanthum chloride, but i read some reefers their tangs died so i bit scared scared try haha. think the byproduct can suffocate them. So u switch from algae based filtration to something else to manage the phosphate? For me, i belong to the more bochap type reefer, my GFO sometimes i let it run longer haha not always aiming for less 0.1 sometimes 0.2 i also no OCD, the corals seems not much negative effects i see, but i try not exceed 0.3 lah. More important, as the age old saying goes for reefing, keep it stable... Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

No problem bro, this tread is for sharing info and learning journey. Feel free to ask. I am no expert also lol..Lots of pro reefer paiseh to post haha.. Yes i still use GFO, my thoughts is algae based filtration is good for nitrates but not phosphate, u see the red field ratio loh, 16 nitrates is to 1 phosphate, nitrates is gonna plunge super fast. my nitrates is super low compared to phosphate. my phosphate with GFO can keep below 0.1, without GFO its like 0.15-0.2. This is just based on my experience with this current tank, different tank different setup, maybe others will feel differently. hope it helps. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Maintenance day, scrap the glass clean, clean wavemaker. Didnt change water though..lazy sunday 🤭 My most colorful corner, The Chapalang Garden [emoji28] Consist favia, monti, shrooms, cloves,cyphastra, chalice. Side view some lowlights, coral casualties. My fav orange chalice receded after i hand itchy move its position, move back original position hope it makes recovery. infront is yellow spondages frag, drop into duncan coral and head become botak. hope it makes recovery. my single head hammer, its a fighter, dont wan to die, been slow recede for many many months,more than 1 year i tink, not sure root cause, few suspects, my tank low nutrient, one side flow too strong, or my wrasse keep spraying sand onto it, sighz, at least my froggiespawn and torches no issue. Thanks for viewing! happy reefing [emoji51] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

looks more like pistol shrimp i tink, unless its mantis shrimp baby [emoji23] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Quick update. Been using arm and hammer baking soda for good few months for Alk dosing, can say with confidence it works just as well compared to other commercial products. This can easily get from supermarket. i am using randy formula using baked baking soda. Old school. Also helps raise my pH. Good for cost down initiatives for this expensive hobby lol [emoji23]. Interested peeps can check below link http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

both forest fire clove and digi reserved by fast hand fast leg bro. Upz for GSP and zoas Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Forest fire cloves - about 4 polyps -$10 GSP - $10 no ID zoas - $10 (about 9-10polyps) Forest fire digi -$10 Buy all for $30 WYSIWYG - ipX with orange filter. Interested pls PM or watsapp 92three5three22three Self Collect Admiralty Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

sorry cant view the vid, is your tank cycled properly? ammonia/nitrite levels? any existing lifestock? Also check the salinity to ensure match with ur tank salinity before put in the tank. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Maybe its due to fish nipping as well. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

yes, most singaporeans live in apartments, most live in hdb flats, public housing to be exact. But you should consult your country’s rule and regulation regarding maximum weight limit, i would say a 4 foot tank should be fine, if an apartment cant even support a 4 foot tank, i think its considered seriously unsafe..just imagine you have a bunch of relatives visiting u for chinese new year, this will be GG. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

you can see my tank thread here. Its a red sea reefer 350. Just a simple mix reef. My Salty Oasis https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Esgreefclub%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Fapplications%2Ftapatalk%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F167236-My-Salty-Oasis&share_tid=167236&share_fid=17537&share_type=t Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Not really sure about the LFS in china, for sg there a few LFS that run copper as preventive measure, Most LFS will need to run some preventive measures in place like copper or UV because a outbreak can lead to tank wipe which means a lot of $$$ loss for them. i dont think they take this kinda risk unless the supplier QT for them but this will raise cost. Just my 2 cents.. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

A QT is not a Must but its highly recommended as diseases such as ich and velvet spreads very fast. Also it lets u monitor the fish and see if its feeding well before introducing to DT. Alternatively, a safer bet would be to get fishes from reefers who decom, as this means its more likely disease free and stable. If get from LFS, try to get those not using copper in their system as some LFS not running copper at therapeutic levels and this tends to suppress the disease, meaning if u introduce it to non-coppered water like your display, the disease might flare up. Thats y u see cases like, it looks “healthy” at LFS but once u introduce to your tank the ich and velvet comes. Some LFS not running copper and using UV to kill the parasites. I prefer to get from these LFS. For beginner fish, probably best to stick to the clownfish damsel fish all these. Avoid ich magnets like tangs. Once your tank is more matured and stable, u can slowly move to more demanding fishes. Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps and happy reefing! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I have a swallowtail angle in mixed reefs with sps lps and softies, so far only saw it nipping on tank walls and rocks, didnt see it nipping on corals especially the juicy fleshy acans. in terms of hardiness, so far eating pellets mysis flakes like any other fish no problems. For hardiness also depends on ur individual specimens, care level of the LFS u got from, also your own practice whether u doing any QT etc.. In terms of growing, cant really comment as its in my tank for few months only. For male female qns, also cant comment as i keeping only 1. Hope this helps, happy reefing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Maybe u can check out this reef builders video if its same type of flatworms. some flatworms are harmless, just need to ensure they do not overpopulate and starve the coral of light. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

u can look into mostly 3 brands, more ex will be artica and teco. More budget friendly will be China Hailea. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Not sure about others, but i have been using these since for the past 3 yrs with no noticeable ill effects, didnt see much oil issue either. My yellow tangs foxface blue tangs all eat it like theres no tomorrow. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

To add on, i have always wondered why ocean water nitrate and phosphate levels are near undetectable and yet LPS thrive, so this makes me wonder why do we say LPS need higher nutrient levels? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks for sharing your experience bro, This topic is good for discussion and sharing. i also agree that corals need some level of nitrates and phosphate to thrive. But at what levels for them to truly thrive is the holy grail of reefing haha. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi bro, think u misunderstood the article, think its trying to say LPS enjoy low nutrient waters which sps also thrive in, its just that they need to be fed often as they evolved mouths and sweeper tentacles which likely means a high percentage of their nutrition comes from capturing and devouring food from the water column, not just photosynthesis. And because of their lower metabolism, they able to withstand higher nitrates and phosphates better, not that they enjoyed it. Remember i read somewhere aussie gold torch comes from turbid waters which means alot food for them to munch on and turbid doesn’t mean dirty (high nitrates/phosphate). Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just sharing an article from reef builders which i find interesting and challenge our current understanding. Might be an answer to why some LPS recede without any reason.. https://reefbuilders.com/2020/05/28/the-myth-of-lps-corals-living-in-dirty-water/ Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app