chris3121

Hi, I carbon dose vinegar to control nitrates and my sun coral loves the bacteria that it produces. It opens all day and all night

I guess the live stock selection must be those hardy type? Else temp fluctuation is one of the killer in tank. Not really, temp fluctuation in Singapore is 5-6 degrees, which translates to 2-3 degrees fluctuation indoors. (Close your windows to prevent heat convection and reduce radiation.) 2-3 degrees fluctuation is normal in natural reefs. You can also use a low powered cooling fan to stabilize temp. Water chemistry is more important for "advanced" corals. Run GFO and dose vinegar.

Singapore waters also have coral reef, don't need chiller/heater - mostly for temperate countries, seasonal changes. But keep away from direct sunlight, because small water volume. Chiller is good for many reasons, higher dissolved oxygen and reduced algae growth. Higher temperature also has benefits - higher metabolism and coral growth.

looking for zoa pack preferably with eagle eye zoa looking for 24k torch too thanks

bonded pair and mated pair different.

did you change the flow rate? if it's too high this might happen.

1.024 is okay, just right.

Awesome man

hi any more similar to pair A?

Haha dark side. Ya use dead/dry rocks better, you have more control of what's in your tank. Pumps for water flow, you can use jebao OW series, they are cheap but good quality imo. Comes with controller for that price not bad. Chiller, Teco is a good brand, Hailea much cheaper but also good. Lighting, jebao has a replica of kessil model, but I haven't tried it yet. (Anyone with experience? I'm also interested.) Skimmer, I personally prefer Tunze. And use those Pro salt, those with calc alk and mag at good levels. Use normal salt for cycling, then change to Pro. Normal salt usually have lower alk around 7.5dkh, which mean slower growth for stony corals. Then you waste dosing to bring it up.

do you mean waterfall concept?

Run as per normal reef system would. I use hang on canister, fully cycled with life rocks, sand and chaeto. Its a normal tank but with more hardy corals like zoas, bird nest, hammer, leather and mushrooms and 0 fish. Only difference is it's always 1 version below the main system. Main version 1.2, it will be 1.1, if main 1.3, it will be 1.2, so don't worry too much about nutrients because you are also exporting it with water change. Also the quarantine tank bioload is much lesser than main tank, so it should be able to process the nutrients just fine.

Hi bro, the separate system is like a quarantine tank, a fully functioning system. It is also like a backup system in case your main system fails. For your main system, you dose to keep water parameters correct? However, when you do water change, don't throw away the water. This water is mature and have almost the same water parameters, so use it to change water for the back up system. This way, you can maintain 2 systems and save on new saltwater. Everytime you water change it's like version 1.1, you keep the version 1.0, it's like saving files on computer. Also, because the back up system has very similar water parameters, you can easily move livestock over without any acclimation, especially during emergency. Very easy to maintain because you are basically saving the water during water change. I use this for quarantine purposes. Hope it helps.

I have a separate system with similar water parameters, used for quarantine, but also for emergency cases. To rescue sensitive intervebrates/fish/corals. If it is ammonia spike it's quite easily solved, but for other cases like water contamination, a separate system will save you because you won't have time to prepare new saltwater. I had an accidental contamination once that wiped my tank because vapor from a disinfecting air freshener got in.

they deliver to singapore? how much is it? would like to get one for fun, bro can share link please