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Upz for urgent clearance as i need to clear my frag tank. Price negotiable. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi. I have a few anemones left which i am willing to trade up for anything that you may have. If interested, pls drop me a pm here. Thank you. The anemones look like this. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Your lighting might be at fault. Is there signs of bleaching or discolouration? Anemones contain zooxanthellae that helps them to photosynthesis. Too much lighting will cause them to expel zooxanthellae, thus, losing their distinctive colours. If your anemone keeps deflating and inflating, that could mean sped up metabolism or just its character. Different anemones have different characters, after all, they are classified as an animal, not plant. Regarding sped up metabolism, your anemone might be undergoing intense photosynthesis. Anemones deflate and inflate is for gaseous exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide. Inflating and deflating at a quick pace can mean high metabolism rate. Can consider lowering light intensity. Another possibility is that anemone has pest on it. Irritated anemones will attempt to move around or float away, and inflate/deflate constantly. Try dipping it. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

The level of water in the sump does not matter. It can be less than the tank or more than. Most importantly, you must ensure the intake of pump is equal to the output of the pump. In other words, the X amount of water that goes into the sump must be equal to the X amount of water that comes out of the sump. If there is no balance, i can only deduce 1 thing, your sump is too packed with filters or clogged. In this case, your sump should overflow, which is not the case. Hence, i dont think you have anything to worry about and is not the pump’s problem. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

One good method is to have a mini quarantine tank. This tank can be any tupperware, doesnt have to look like a fishtank. As long as you noticed any fish is not looking good, take it out immediately next time and put in quarantine tank. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It’s beneficial for detritus removal. I don’t remove it, in fact, I introduce it into my tank. But make sure it is bristle worm and not fire worm. Fire worm is detrimental to corals. The difference between bristle and fire worm is that fire worm has red sides on them that makes them looks like they’re on fire. Bristle worm the coloratura is duller. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Fish can normally take high level of nitrates. There is a big misconception here. Nitrate is not the killer. In fact. Nitrate is a fertiliser, good for photosynthetic corals. The killer is nitrite or ammonia, but for your case it’s low. Parameters is not the problem except your pH is on the low side. Dose some sodium bicarbonate, you can buy these at Super market known as baking soda. Dose it till the pH jumps back to 8. But I doubt pH will cause your fish to be like this. It is highly likely that it’s parasite. You must always copper treat all fishes before adding them in tank. Or rather copper treat all the fishes as soon as you bring them home from lfs. Besides treating fishes, you need to place in pvc pipes for the fishes to hide in. Hiding will lessen stress for the fish and recover better. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It’s good food for corals, especially sps. Because it’s microscopic in nature. Filter feeders also benefit from this. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Where did you get your rocks from? No matter where you get them from, as long as it is wet, you should always dry it or bleach it then dry it. This is to make sure that no other organisms make their way to your tank. Things that grow on rocks can only be algae or sponge. But since yours “grow”, it’s safe to assume it to be algae breakout caused by silicates in your water. Place a pack of phosguard in and it should eliminate silicates and make them disappear. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Diatoms should not affect the opening of the polyps. The only downside to having diatoms is that it’ll compete for nutrients with other living organisms in the tank. Diatoms form is due to silicates. This is normally the result of using tap water or when you feed your tank too much. It could be your lighting or flow. Flow too strong, it’ll not open. Lighting too strong, it’ll not open. But if the reason is lighting, then not only will it not open, but over time it will become bleached. Photosynthetic corals will expel zooxanthellae when there is over-photosynthesis. This means when the light is too strong, it will expel zooxanthellae and it turns colour, normally to whitish, known as bleaching. Keep a look out for it and see how it goes. But for now, what you can do is just monitor the water parameters. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Generally, you don’t have to worry about bio load when you add something to your tank, and this is assuming your tank has been fully cycled and loaded with anaerobic bacteria. Think of the inverts as small little bombs. Their waste material is considered negligible in a 30g. The bigger the tank, the more negligible. The only time you have to worry about bio load is when these little “bombs” explode. By that, I mean when they die. Inverts like small hermit crabs are good for tanks, but the thing is a lot of people place them in their main display tank and these things don’t have a long lifespan. The main reason is that hermits tend to come out of their shell when they grow too big and unable to find a bigger shell, this is when they die off, and when it’s inside the display tank, there’ll be a lot of trouble taking them out of tank. If you want to put inverts, I’d suggest you to place them in the sump or refugium for easy removal. But back to your question, inverts produce less waste than fishes due to the massive difference in the quantity of intake of food. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Generally, boxfishes do well with cleaner shrimps. Look out for distressed behaviors. If the box fish appears to allow cleaner shrimp to clean, which is suppose to be the case, then it’s all good. It happens in nature all the time, it is symbiotic. The only time that boxfish will really poison the whole tank is when it dies, otherwise, a good pack of carbon should be able to absorb the mucus it secrets when stressed. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Technically, all living organisms require a level of nitrates and phosphates as they’re biological building blocks of their cellular structures. To be specific, they require the element phosphorus and nitrogen. Whenever I read comments that say try to aim for 0ppm of nitrates, that’s totally false. First, there is no way, it’s impossible to hit 0 ppm. There are always traces of nitrates, completely 0 is impossible. Hitting 0 nitrates and/or phosphates can slow down growth rate of all organisms in tank. What you would want to do is to keep a range of nitrates and phosphates at a healthy level, levels that are not too high to cause too many problems nor too low that organisms are starved of it. By “many problems”, I mean problems like these: 1) Ammonia released from decomposition of organic matter is poison to the living organisms 2) Nitrite formed from oxidation of ammonia by anaerobic bacteria is acidic in nature and will further decrease pH 3) Nitrates formed from further oxidation of nitrites will also promote acidity and pH decreases. But to counter high nitrates, Ensure you have low oxygenated area in tank to further process nitrates to nitrogen gas and oxygen gas. If not enough, you can try nutrient export by using chaeto or biopellet reactor, though I personally prefer chaeto. Biopellet has a few problems that are really problematic. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi I’m interested. But I can only collect on Monday night, will that be ok? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Upz. I really need some Got rotifers/copepods also welcome. Ty Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi bro and sis. Does anyone of you happen to have culture of phytoplankton or are culturing it? I am looking for a few milliliters of it and start my own culturing to feed my rotifers and copepods and invertebrates. Pls pm me if you’re willing to provide me with some. Thank you! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I have one I’m letting off. Pm me Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app