Indeco

Hi, I'm looking for the below Zoas. About 2 to 5 polyps size. Do PM me the picture and price if you selling. Thx. - Blueberry - Fire and ice - Sunny D - Peopler eater - Teal ring - Orange oxide - Tryee rasta - Mohawk - Laker - Fruit loop

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Bubble Magus BP-100 biopellet reactor, still in good working condition. Selling at $65. PM me if you are interested. Collection at Jurong.

If you selling do PM me the picture. Thx.

May I know where to collect?

Yes show us a picture or video then easier to understand. Maybe u put the wrong direction for the in and out flow?

Never use a UAS before so unable to give best advice but below is my experience for ur reference. I run my refugium lighting period at night and off in the morning, opposite from my DT lighting period. But I use my refugium to maintain PH and house copepods rather than nutrient export. Hence, u will need to consider a few points. If u shorten ur light period will it affect ur nutrient export? Will ur PH fluctuate alot at night? I think is gd for the water to continue circulate even the light is off. Hope this help.

1) Normally i will restart my QT tank after each successful or failed round. For filter sponge will throw away and replace with a new seeded one. For media, I will bleach it to ensure is clean and remove the medication within the media. 2) Drip acclimated slower if the temp different is big. U should try to aim for below 28c for ur QT tank using a fan. Sensitive fish don't really do well if the temp is too high. 3) After completed all treatment for the fish, do a water change and put carbon in to remove the medication in the tank. Observe the fish for 3 days to a week to ensure all good before proceed to move it. 4) Depend on the treatment you using, below for ur reference. Some treatment can be done concurrently but I will suggest to do it individually unless u know what can be mixed together. - Ich (14 to 30 days chelated copper treatment at therapeutic level) - Fluke & Internal worm (2 rounds of Prazi treament) --- 1st round treatment 5 days --- Take a break for 5 days --- 2nd round treatment 5 days - Brooknelly, Urenoma (14 days Seachem Metroplex) --- If still not ok, do one more round - External bacterial infection (10 days Seachem Kanaplex) 5) I prefer to set my salinity at 1.020 when I QT my fish. Less stress for them. Once treatment completed, I will bring up the salinity slowly over a week while observe the fish health. Hope this help.

Yes, Genicanthus family is reef safe. Just take note that they are common to have decompression issue due to the way of collecting so must choose carefully.

So far No LFS sell fish that is very reliable and healthy. All fish need to be quarantined in order to be safe else just matter of time to hit the jackpot. If u are new to this hobby, will be better to buy fish from shop that don't use copper. I believe is more obvious to see the symptoms on the fish.

For skimmer, check out Skimz and Redsea. Price quite ok, u don't have to get oversized skimmer if bioload is not heavy. Nowdays skimmer quite standard just get the suitable size for ur tank can liao. I do water change is to export nutrient and refill elements needed for corals. I only change water every 6 mths when I'm having fish only. For UV, I'm using Coralife so far so good. If you got budget u can consider deltec or aqua ultraviolet as ur tank is bigger. UV more or less the same so focus on the sterilizer flow rate and turn over rate is more important. I assuming you got top and bottom bracing for ur tank?

Sand got 2 functions, increase area for good bacteria to grow and give a more natural look and feel. Fish like wrasse, gobies will also prefer sand. Downside, trap more detritus and maintenance is a problem. If nutrient control is not done properly diatom and algaes will make it look ugly. Skimmer is a must for me as it have alot of benefits. As for water, I will advise using RO without DI is gd enough. Tap water I don't advise although some reefers said is ok. For your system water change will be not easy so u may want to consider nutrient export method like carbon dosing, refugium. Can consider change water once every 3 mths. I strongly recommend u to get a UV sterilizer. This is help u solve alot of fish health problem.

The calibration fluid is quite easy to get nowdays as more LFS is bring in. The Standard 35ppt solution. I used to calibrate my refractormeter using the solution and tap water to check the range. Tap water should measure 0 ppt. It will be better to use both instead of either one. For me refractormeter is quite troublesome to use and accuracy run off when u knock and hit it. But after getting Hanna salinity checker, life is so much easy when come to checking salinity. If u don't mind the price tag I strongly recommend u get one.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106] Nice job! Looking forwards for ur update.

Based on my understanding depending on the size, can't remember the exact size but when they are small they required feeding like pods, calanus, oyster egg, fish egg etc. When they get bigger they will be like coral required good lighting as food.

Same as how u acclimate them into the QT tank. Some reefers will play safe but doing 1 last round of fresh water dip or medicated bath before putting into the main tank.

My QT is only 10 gallon so using a 4 head fan can bring it below 27.5 during normal days. I using a cheap thermostat to control the temp, fan will run when temp is > 27.3 and stop at 27.0. This help to reduce alot of evaporation during cooling days. If your fan run 24/7 very hard to control the temp and water evaporate very fast.

oh ok, cause planning to setup a QT tank for coral using fan. Based on my current fish QT tank generally can stay below 27.5 but sometime weather hot can hit up to 28. I guess should be ok as mainly focus on LPS. thx for the info bro.

28 degree for LPS and SPS possible?

Better be safe than sorry, u can consider Europe top bracing look much better than normal one. I'm using 12mm for 5x2x2 with Europe bracing.

Just curious what is the chance for training them to eat pellet?

I also looking. Hehe Can keep a look out at SAS they bring in 2 times before but the price very different.

Got a few things u need to consider. Did you use a good thermometer to measure your tank temp after the chiller stop about 15 min? This will give u the actual temp of your tank. Cause when the chiller is chilling, the return flow area will be cooler normally is the sump area. U also need to consider the flow rate to the chiller, too slow ur chiller will hit 25 deg very fast and stop chilling liao. So u need to adjust the flow rate. U also need to set the deg adjustment to match ur tank temp, I not sure about Teko can do this or not.

Still not able to detect the issue on your fish ah?