stormrider

Sharing my input with photo on my setup. Fliter wool still need to be replace like every 4 weeks or when it is about to get choke up. During wool replacement, siphon water till it drop below the egg crate to prevent chaeto bits falling off during wool replacement.

Oh, i didnt know Reeflink is so unstable. Will take note on my upgrade Good feedbacks

I always love to own a Vortech pump. It’s the design that draws lots of attention. Costly it is... but i heard Jebao quality is not there yet. My own experience with a RW4, I had seen rust at the controller power input and the magnet inside the tank fall off while carrying out maintenance. The Magnet also leave behind a faint mark on the tank glass.

Thanks SubzeroLT. I will bring the unit to Madpetz and see if changing gauge helps. My pressure gauge always at Zero. And with pump activated, output of the water is with pretty good flow. Without pump, the output is slow. (no experience with RODI). BTW, do we need to calibrate the TDS meter?

Thanks munlok. i had open up the cartridges. Should i change this? I think it should not be yellowish. the blue membrane filter cant be pull out... but i think it suppose to last a long time?

Hi reefers, I got myself a 2nd hand RODI unit that comes with a pump and had set it up for the first time. I had run it for at least 15mins but the pressure gauge doesnt move. How to get a minimum 50psi pressure? Input of TSI was 54 and Output of TSI was 0. I had not open the cartridges... its a a very difficult task to open them too. Appreciate RODI users to advice. Thank you.

I presume the "dandruff" are the ants you are referring to... just that they are on swimming mode.

It seems normal to me. I had them when cycling... Swimming around in the tank. After awhile, the population will reduced... probably fish eat them.

Pmed. I am keen.

If nitrite is detected, it is going through cycling. Suggest you wait for a bit longer, 1-2 weeks more with some sample testing. After tank was cycled, I understood it will follow with diatom booming on your rocks. By then adding 1-2 hardy fish will tell you if the tank is stable...and welcome to this hobby

Hi Thanos, Tank should have ammonia spikes follow by nitrite. Nitrate should increase gradually after cycling. If the tank doesn't have this reading, it seems to me that it had not done cycling. Since you had added some live rocks, Cycling period might had been shorten. What type water are you using? Natural Sea Water or Salt mix? Natural sea water will also help to shorten cycling period. From my experience, one week should be sufficient to complete cycling with NSW. Salt mix will take much longer.

Spongodes Montipora, will it survive without wave maker and with high nutrients? It is a free frag given by my good cousin, just to try if my tank can accommodate SPS corals.

50% WC weekly 1ml Reef Carbonate daily Manual

Swee! nice reefscaping!

1st Chamber : Filter wool, 1 x small bag PhosRowa, 2 x Chemipure Blue nano, Biosphere 2nd Chamber: Chaeto and Biosphere 3rd Chamber: 2 x return pumps connected to 1 x Chill solution. Main Display: 9 x fish ; 1 x fire shrimp ; 1 x turbo snail ; 1 x Torch coral ; 1 x Jewel coal ; 8 polyps Zoa 3 x Ricordea Florida ; 11 Polyps Duncan coral ; 1 x spongodes montipora (Recently added)

Egg crates and secure them with cable ties

thank you. my precious simple small nano

Inside Seletar farmway, one hidden entrance.

Jin Swee leh I see you had done a great job hiding the cables too!

From this photo, i felt there might be not enough bacterial to be house in the tank. A few rocks might help to maintain stable. Just my thought.

Internal bleeding is worst then tears

Ouch! These LEDs are really hot. Are you able to repair / replace the LEDs?

Test parameters of the water, patience is the key to success. Happy reefing.

I had a sun burst anthias for 3-4 months, shown no interest in pellets even when it was starved for days.

Upgraded to XR15 light and three polyps of Ricordia Florida, hope they grow well.