soggycookies

My wrasses aren’t aggressive at all. I used to have a rabbitfish in my system but I took him out because when he grew bigger he chased my diamond Wrasse around all the time. Despite being the largest fish he’s definitely not the most dominant one.. strangely enough my blue Tang and Kole Tang seem to be the most dominant fish in my tank. Most of the LFS I know of rarely ship diamond Wrasses but it’s actually a relatively common species in our local waters. Some specimens can be pretty colourful too, but they’re typically greenish-pink with accents of yellow and blue. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Powder blues and other tangs of the genus acanthurus are known to be the most aggressive tangs generally save for blue tangs so I’m not surprised heh. Especially PBT and Achilles. But that’s just a generalisation. I have 4 different tangs in my tank and the species that’s supposed to be the most docile one(Kole Tang) happens to be the most aggressive member of my tank. Bellus’ tankmates are: Longhorn Cowfish Marine betta Blue Tang Kole Tang Yellow Tang Black Scopas Tang Diamond Wrasse Bicolor Wrasse Diamond Goby Bullet sleeper Goby x2 Photon Clowns x10 margarita Cardinals Barstripe Cardinal Candystripe Cardinal Green Mandarin Lawnmower Blenny Tailspot blenny Seagrass tuskfish Lattice Monocle Bream Largest member in the tank is the diamond Wrasse at around 18cm(max size) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I’ve a 2.5” Bellus in my 125gallon setup with clams, softies, LPS and SPS. Doesn’t bother any of them. Tankmates all share a peaceful temperament. Feeds on pellets and shrimp. Loves to swim around in the water column rather than pick at things on rocks/the substrate. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Up Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Interested in getting a secondhand fixture for a new frag tank. Looking at a $200-$280 price range. Please pm me or msg/whatsapp 9636 zero 7 4 zero if you have any you’re willing to sell at said price range. Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Interesting direction you’re going in with the planted tank bro. Kudos. Btw correct me if I’m wrong but don’t Ochtodes also take in calcium to grow? Something different from what we’re used to seeing surely; a planted marine tank is certainly rare. Mangroves are far more common. Helps that we can pretty much get these things from local shores too heh. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You can try a fluidized media reactor for activated carbon and/or GFO. They have them in stock at madpetz and you can get the mini BulkReefSupply reactor at reefing reality. GFO helps a lot with keeping your phosphates and silicates(which are one of many pest algae’s favorite nutrient) in check, so for a reef tank(or any display tank actually), they’re definitely worthwhile Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Agreed. If your system is lightly stocked, it is probably worthwhile to set up a larger, established QT to treat your fish. However, if your tank is heavily stocked with smaller, zippy fish, AND plenty of rock and corals as well... I get why many would rather just let the fish “deal with it” haha. Also read somewhere that the only way for MI to be completely eradicated without being treated outside your tank is the generations of the parasite dying off after 6-11 months given no new ich pathogens are introduced into the tank. Which would mean literally not adding anything- be it fish, coral or aquascape into your tank for that extended period of time and ensuring none of your fish get infected in that period again due to a lowered immunity. And even then it’s a long shot. Whenever you add new livestock and stress on your current fishes is back, even momentarily, it is very likely you’ll see the white spots appear again, unless you treat every single fish and leave your main display without fish for a minimum of 5-6 weeks for the entire ich parasite life cycle to expire Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I had the same idea. Socks are great but if you neglect maintenance they are pretty nasty. Great for accidental pod culturing though. Hahahaha. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

What I meant was that I left my filter sock in my sump without removing it for a month. There were a whole bunch of pods on/in it. Turns out they were multiplying in it cause I didn’t change it out for so long. Currently I’m trying to run my system without socks to see how it affects particulate matter in my tank cause every time I take my filter sock out I have OCD about all the pods I’ll be killing when I wash it out. They really breed like crazy in my filter sock Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I don’t have enough at the moment for you bro hahaha. If they have an area in your tank where they can safely multiply, they generally aren’t all that hard to grow. Give it a month. I went without removing my Filter sock from my system for a month a couple times, when I took it out there were huge amphipods in it. I have a Seahorse and a Mandarin in my system that I never have to feed cause they’ve been living off the pods in my system. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

As far as doing it professionally you could culture them feeding them phytoplankton. I’ve never tried it though. I get my chaeto/macroalgae from local beaches so they already come with a variety of microorganisms, including copepods and amphipods. They then multiply like crazy in my sump and external refugium in the sand, media and macroalgae. Chaeto is supposedly the best for them because their swirling mass provides refuge and a hiding place compared to macroalgae like gracilaria and caulerpa Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Try using a black bio sponge to prevent the micro bubbles from entering your main display indefinitely Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Oh dear. That looks pretty nasty Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Chaeto doesn’t attach to rock. You can try using a rock to hold some parts of it down, that might help a bit. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Put it in a lower flow area if possible, but other than that I don’t have a foolproof answer for you mate. I combine my chaeto with other misc. gracillaria algae and it attaches onto them which stops them floating around, though most of the time my chaeto grows into a ball and doesn’t really float up Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just continue running gfo like rowaphos that helps to reduce both phosphates and silicates. If the brown film of diatoms on the sand starts to look like it’s stringy and forms bubbles, that’s when you should be concerned, because that’s probably dinoflagellates/cyanobacteria which is toxic. Diatoms are unsightly but harmless. Bristletooth tangs like a Kole or tomini Tang love the stuff but they normally don’t eat the algae on the sandbed unless little else around to graze. Just for the record I have barely any phosphates in my tank(0-0.05) and I still get diatoms. If you’re getting green hair algae and stringy/hairy brown algae, that’s prolly a good indicator your phosphates are too high. But like others say, getting a good cleanup/algae grazing crew helps to keep the unsightly algae down. Sandsifters like sandstars, nassarius snails(the ones that clean sand, turbo snails clean rock), and sand-sifting gobies are your best bet Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

In the Long term as your chaeto grows it’s probably not gonna be tumbling most of the time but that’s not an issue, as Long as there is flow and decent lighting you’re good to go Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

By algae on your sand I’m assuming you mean brown diatoms correct? In that case silicates could be the underlying issue, diatoms are fed even further by silicates Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I’m no expert on par but imo if you’re just growing macroalgae you don’t need crazy lighting to grow it, it would be nice to have a $600 kessil’s h380 but if you’re using it to grow a small chamber of chaeto with limited space, a 6500 bulb fixture from a hardware store or general aquarium stores like seaview will do. In my experience it’s better to get a bulb than a cheap LED if that’s the case. If you’re going for LEDs, make sure they’re quality ones(like Kessil) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Best spectrum is 6500k for growing macroalgae, not that hard to find and very affordable as well with a wide variety for you to choose from. Like full hedge has mentioned, kessil’s grow lights are the premium choice but very pricey if you’re on a tight Budget. If you have the Budget, the best would prolly be kessil’s h380 flora light. Grows macroalgae real fast cause of the intense red and blue-only ideal spectrum. But if you hate the strong pink glow, just go for a cheaper alternative in warm white 6500k fixtures Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Might be due to a considerable amount of residual silicates in your tank if they still come back, especially if you shut your lights off for 3 days and they still return just as fast Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

How big is your sump compartment? Unless you’re using a macroalgae reactor, i think bacteria Media has more value if the space in your sump is relatively small Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Awesome! Am interested in getting 7 bags. What’s the price per bag? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Still searching for this type of sand, seems pretty damn hard to get here for some reason.. If you have any to sell away, please pm. Thanks.