soggycookies

It’s a noble volute Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Helps to oxygenate your water more which might help speed up bacteria cultivation but at the same time if its capacity is well above your total volume, it might remove quite a bit of the nutrients necessary for a cycle to sustain itself, unless you plan to cycle with livestock already in the system Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It’s hard for light to reach the 3rd layer and you’re better off getting a remote tank or a chaeto reactor for your chaeto bro. The stuff needs light to grow and thrive Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Ideally you would only dose cupramine/misc. copper treatments in your hospital tank, because even if your system is a fish-only, if you wanna add corals and other invertebrates in the future, you’re gonna need to clean out your entire tank because things like algae and rocks absorb copper as well and may leach them out in the future Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Finally found. Collected from a nice reefer. Thanks SRC. Mods please assist to delete this thread Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Sorry for your loss, Nasos are among the most endearing of tangs imo. Yeah and it’s not necessarily the retailers’ fault all the time either, cause many times down the chain we may not know how exactly our fish were collected at the source. The middlemen who buy the fish from the divers or villagers who catch them may lie and withhold information to sell their catch. After all who’d wanna buy fish if they knew they were caught with cyanide right? Still a common practice in Indonesia and Philippines. Another reason why fish from Sri Lanka and the Red Sea tend to ship better. Australia is probably the best shipper(but it’s reflected in their typically hefty prices too) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Where did you get your fish from? Sometimes in this hobby purchased fish are collected with cyanide and eventually die in captivity no matter how good the parameters are due to cyanide poisoning. Unless all your other fish are also dying, it might be that. If you buy many different ones from different retailers and they all still die.. then it’s probably an issue with your tank parameters. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Definitely ok to add fish but like@reef tan said, good to do a couple of 30% water changes to get the nitrates down. As Long as your Ammonia and nitrite test 0, you’re good to go. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

True indeed. While far less likely than it coming from infected fish, there is still a chance that the ich parasite cysts are on the rock or structure that the coral comes on, just like any other coral parasite. Some say dips work the same on ich, but from what I’ve read, they are immune in their cyst stage to even 30min freshwater baths. Only drying them out will completely kill them, which is of course impossible in this case without killing your livestock as well. In an ideal world we’d quarantine even corals, but I’m sure only the most extreme of us would go to such lengths hahaha. What you could do at the very least to lower the chances of ich entering your system through new corals/rock is place your coral/rock in a holding tank with water from your main display for a few hours after dipping them in a coral dip, with no fishes. Isn’t foolproof but might help a bit. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

To add on, even if it’s a fish-only, treating your entire Display tank will no doubt also kill any clean-up crew and other misc. invertebrates within the rock which in smaller systems would cause an Ammonia/nitrite spike which could potentially wipe the whole system. A treatment QT is ideal Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just drip-acclimate like you would other fish before putting them in. Cuttlefish are very sensitive to copper as well so make sure if you’re treating your fish don’t share the same water Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Fish and cephalopods like cuttlefish don’t mix well bro. Usually either the fish become its dinner or the fish stress them out until they die. Multiple cuttlefish together is also a gamble, unless you have a large system. Also in smaller systems, if they ink you have to do a water change quickly as even a good protein Skimmer will struggle to remove the ink in a small system. They will suffocate in their own discharge otherwise Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

u p Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Same, looks like a turbo snail to me from that angle as well Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looks like a turbo snail of some sort to me. Definitely not a pest, they’re good algae grazers on your rocks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

no2 0.25ppm now? It could have been that around the time your livestock died your nitrite was higher, much higher than 0.25. That could have been the cause. Nitrite is as deadly, if not more deadly than ammonia, and could easily kill your fish in a short time as well Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Still looking.. Bump. Even brand new will do. Hard to find the old model these days after the new one’s been released Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Sorry about your loss. Try to refrain from adding any livestock into your tank while it’s not stable yet, make sure you check your salinity with a refractometer rather than a hydrometer. Much more accurate. Also be sure to check Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before putting anything in. My hunch is that your tank wasn’t done cycling yet when you put all your livestock in. Even the hardiest fishes can’t survive 5.0 nitrite(which is when the cycle is midway through). To be completely safe, only add livestock once your Ammonia and nitrite test zero. Typically this takes around 4 weeks unless you have beneficial bacteria present to seed your new tank. Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

What he said. Activated carbon really does work in getting rid of any pigmentation in the water Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Green star polyps and some of the hardier leather corals. Xenia. Basically nothing but the hardier softies Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Bump Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Generally if you want to keep all varieties of corals, a chiller is a necessity. If it’s fish-only then a chiller isn’t necessary unless you want to keep deepwater or cold water species Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If you’re keeping smaller members of the genus xanthichthys that have a more peaceful temperament and are the reef-safe variety, I’d say a 4x2x2 is possible. For the bigger and more aggressive species like clown, niger and queen triggers(most of the other triggers essentially), then IMO nothing smaller than a 150gallon. And they are definitely not reef-safe hahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

upp

Still searching. If the offer is too low please pm me with your price range. Thx Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app