soggycookies

That’s because it’s exactly that bro haha panther groupers are the same thing as mouse groupers just given a different name. The ones we always see at LFS are tiny. But they grow up to 70ish cm Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Yes that’s right. They grow up to 72cm. Groupers generally grow too big for anything smaller than 240gallon setups but small ones are always sold anyway lol Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Careful about that panther Grouper, he grows fast and might start to see your other fishes as food hahaha. Also your setup is too small to house any kind of Grouper. Other than that, impressive first setup! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It’s in the process of cycling. Plenty of organics are being broken down by bacteria which is why you see those readings. Once your ammonia and nitrite are 0, your cycle is complete. It’s good that you’re seeing higher nitrates than ammonia and nitrites, the process is probably about to end soon. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Anyone with any pre-existing used/unused copper test kits(preferably Salifert or Seachem) to sell or give away? Please pm me if you have any leftover Thanks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If something in the aquarium threatens them they will probably release toxins in small amounts. All corals do, but they’re generally harmless to us unless it’s the more potent ones like palytoxin from zoas/palys. That said, if you’re worried about the toxins from corals, just wear gloves and if you’re really paranoid, a face mask [emoji23] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Try get some clams.. from what I know octopus aren’t all that interested in hermits. And perhaps its natural diet doesn’t consist of that species of crab either. Try swimmer crabs like small flower crabs. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Xenia doesn’t contain palytozin but it definitely is toxic in its own way. There’s a reason why most fish don’t try to eat it hahahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Yes. This is why it’s never a good idea to “cook” your rock, no matter what the internet may say hahaha. If there are zoas or palythoa or basically any kind of more toxic soft coral on it they will definitely emit toxic fumes when you boil them Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I don’t blame you haha their videos are very lengthy.. but very informative and professional without much bias Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Check out this video. Explains the various methods of curing rock. BRStv is a very informative channel for reefing overall. Since you’re new to the hobby you might want to watch some of them. They clarify not only what to do but why to do it. I try my best to explain some things here but I’m afraid my explanations might not be pinpoint. Safer to watch more detailed tutorials especially for this kinda thing.

Pure freshwater will kill most if not all of them depending on how Long you cure them for. Generally they say 4-8 weeks but 2 weeks should be ok once you see your ammonia and nitrite at 0. The 8 week long process is to get rid of phosphate deep within the rock as well as other potential contaminants. But like others have mentioned.. bleach is if you really want to kill everything on your rock guaranteed at once. Freshwater works IME but only if given time

IMO you should cure them cause you don’t know how Long they’ve been out of water. Some things might still be alive but many things have probably died or started to die when the rocks were taken out of water. If you trust the LFS you got it from when they say it’s already cured then I see no need to though. Also try not to soak with tap water.. run it in RODI water/distilled water that’s been dechlorinated at the very least, and then use the necessary chemicals/bioproducts to speed up the process if you want them cycled fast Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

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Pasir Ris Beach, Changi beach, ECP.. pretty sure it’s not illegal to collect them Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Unlikely but not impossible, if something like a crab manages to somehow snip off and detach a small cluster it could float around the tank and settle elsewhere. These things don’t need a lot of light to grow either. But in my experience they only grow really fast once established for some time in your system Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

That works well, also keep them away from the glass. They can grow on the glass edges of your tank too if conditions are well Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Great to see increasingly more variety [emoji5] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Fair enough. Even trace amounts of copper is a no-no for any coral or invert. There is definitely a learning curve with optimum quarantine procedures, and I can understand your worry about fish dying. If you’re serious about the hobby when it comes to fish though, it’s worth learning more about proper QT, even more important if you’re keeping a reeftank with both corals and fish. If it’s a fish-only you can practically treat the whole DT with copper, but then like you said, you’ll have to worry about copper staining parts of it in the future if you plan to use it for corals as well. Either way, hope all goes well for you. I’m not saying die die must use copper, I’ve seen many people with successful systems who haven’t touched copper or never QT their fish, but you can only be lucky for so Long. Once the big hit happens, expect things like entire tank crashes to happen. Don’t mean to be a downer but the most stressful part of this hobby is the beginning methinks, tho once you’ve gotten past that initial phase and understand more about why things are and not just what they are, it becomes more rewarding. Just my two cents haha. Or.. you could just keep buying new fishes when they die without you knowing why(and blame the LFS)[emoji276] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

That’s why it’s called personal experience hahaha. Never try, never know. Either you trust what others say completely or do it yourself heh 🤷🏻‍♂️

Possibly. lol @ the jokes on premium LFS using cupramine hahahaha. And like you mentioned before, the main idea is to sell the fishes off as quickly as possible. It’s a fundamental business model for livestock like the fishes we get. That’s probably why they seem fine at first but who knows what they’ve been through in the process of getting to us. A few weeks down the line in another different environment and they might not look so good because of “unknown reasons”. This is why I believe in QT so much, at least you can observe them for an extended period instead of risking your entire DT Also IME I’ve treated fishes with copper with no issues. Fishes are more likely to die in QT due simply to stress, improper acclimation to copper-treated water or an uncycled QT that doesn’t receive water changes. The reason I mentioned cupramine is I know from personal experience that it does not kill the beneficial bacteria involved in cycling a tank. I haven’t tried too many brands of copper treatments but I know cupramine doesn’t destabilize my cycled QT so I continue to use it(and no I’m not a promoter of the brand just a humble consumer who has had success with the product lol [emoji23]) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You’ve won half the battle if you are doing these things to safeguard your DT as a whole. Even without treatment/pre-emptive measures that can seem intimidating to newbies especially(like copper treatment), it’s still much safer than doing the old ‘float bag in main tank then release after 15mins’ idea of acclimation. But yeah like he mentioned, in the case of an issue.. what are you gonna do? If you’re still worried about using copper I’d suggest using a combo of the tank transfer method(you can read up about that)praziquantel and freshwater dips. Medicated dips are more advanced but there’s plenty of information about these things online. Some of them sound unbelievable at first (like freshwater dips), but are actually very helpful and simple once you realize what you’re doing them for. Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thankfully if you’ve read other forums and feedback on copper treatments, the market standard of cupramine is for now(and been for some time)less volatile than some of the older copper treatments that are more toxic to fish. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If hyposalinity treatment worked for velvet or if chloroquine phosphate(though apparently that stuff is more toxic than even copper)and stuff like formalin were more accessible in the aquarium market here, I probably wouldn’t use copper either Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Always happy to share knowledge especially where it helps bro. Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app