soggycookies

Try increasing the surface agitation of the water on the QT by tilting a small powerhead towards the surface more than you usually would. Helps regulate the temperature and aerate the water more- since temperature fluctuations, pH swings and lower oxygen levels especially at night are probably what end up killing your fish Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Can confirm this works most of the time, small clams and mussels on the half shell seem to do the trick. Getting them to feed from the water column is the hard part though, but from my experience it helps if other peaceful tankmates that it will sometimes school with(like rabbitfishes if you have any) actually influence its feeding behaviour and it might mimic them eventually and begin to feed on mysis/cuts of shrimp and even pellets if you’re really lucky, especially if it’s a younger specimen. All the best Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If the chaeto is dying off already, taking it out isn’t such a bad idea to prevent adding more nutrients to the water. Sounds like a good idea. Adding some flow to your sump might help in reducing the chances of dinos settling there in the future too Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

The stringy texture with air bubbles at the tips suggest dinos bro. Best to leave the affected area in darkness for a few days after siphoning out as much of it as possible imo. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If you pluck a growing one out of the substrate it could be depending on where you are(in a park under NParks for e.g.) but plenty of the pinnules(seed pods) float in and onto many of our beaches. I doubt those are illegal to collect Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Yes adding more media will allow for an increased beneficial bacteria population. As Long as there’s an ammonia source, the bacteria that breaks ammonia down into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate will be cultivated naturally over time, or You can dose bottled bacteria like microbacter 7 or Seachem stability to speed up your cycle too. Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

A half dose(or specifically 0.2-0.3mg/L) of copper in your quarantine tank for a week or two generally does the trick to prevent the spread of potential ich from new fish Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just keep testing the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels bro. Once you see 0 ammonia and nitrite and some nitrates, your tank should be cycled Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Sorry about your loss bro Anything other than ocellaris and percula(and their variants) clowns are more like their other Damsel cousins and tend to be more aggressive even as Clownfish. Especially if they were one of the first ones introduced. Hope you find new additions that can hold their own and stand up to your clarkii hahaha. Or perhaps you can try taking him out of your tank for a week or 2 if you have a QT tank and place the other fishes in there before putting him back in. That might help some Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Those look like residual reef cement to me. Diatoms will start to grow on more obvious surfaces at the beginning. All the best with your new setup! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Definitely not. Anemones aren’t sedentary like corals. Doing something like glueing them to a spot might damage their ‘Feet’ which they need to plant themselves firmly to what they choose to settle on. They can and will move around but generally remain in the same spot unless they’re not comfortable with it or if you’re constantly adjusting the flow and lighting, etc. Try getting a small rock with a sizeable crevice and leave the anemone and the rock in the confines of a separate acclimation box and eventually the anemone will attach to the rock. Then the rock to an area of your choosing, with suitable flow and lighting such that it doesn’t feel the need to change spots frequently. Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You can get these at fishing tackle shops too. But generally they’re pretty useless if you leave them out in the open. Exposing them to room temp is not gonna be useful, they’re for keeping things cold for 24 hours when placed in a cooler. My Guess is a couple of hours or so if out in the open Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Happy to share some insight bro Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I’ve tried the cheap sunsun 2000Lph ones but I find if you’re keeping chaeto that tends to get stuck in the impeller it’s probably better to use a Long horizontal bubbler and place it at the bottom. Either that or just regularly trim the chaeto once it starts to get too bushy hahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Been using the same light for a small external fuge too, on max intensity it grows chaeto and ulva like crazy but once the growth gets dense I’ve found the par isn’t strong enough compared to the much more pricey h380. Can remedy that with slightly increased flow though Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Simple, tidy and easy to maintain setup. Kudos! Also like how you make do without a chiller. What corals do you have in your display? I’m assuming they’re of the hardier variety cause yeah with the sort of climate here, going without a chiller is risky if you have corals. But from the photo it doesn’t look like it’s even remotely an issue for you hahah Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Their coloration becomes more drab with age, much like a lot of predatory fishes Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Sorry to burst your bubble and I know it’s fun starting off ambitious but that tank size of yours isn’t going to be breeding blue tangs anytime soon bro Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

That’s because it’s exactly that bro haha panther groupers are the same thing as mouse groupers just given a different name. The ones we always see at LFS are tiny. But they grow up to 70ish cm Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Yes that’s right. They grow up to 72cm. Groupers generally grow too big for anything smaller than 240gallon setups but small ones are always sold anyway lol Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Careful about that panther Grouper, he grows fast and might start to see your other fishes as food hahaha. Also your setup is too small to house any kind of Grouper. Other than that, impressive first setup! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It’s in the process of cycling. Plenty of organics are being broken down by bacteria which is why you see those readings. Once your ammonia and nitrite are 0, your cycle is complete. It’s good that you’re seeing higher nitrates than ammonia and nitrites, the process is probably about to end soon. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Anyone with any pre-existing used/unused copper test kits(preferably Salifert or Seachem) to sell or give away? Please pm me if you have any leftover Thanks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If something in the aquarium threatens them they will probably release toxins in small amounts. All corals do, but they’re generally harmless to us unless it’s the more potent ones like palytoxin from zoas/palys. That said, if you’re worried about the toxins from corals, just wear gloves and if you’re really paranoid, a face mask [emoji23] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Try get some clams.. from what I know octopus aren’t all that interested in hermits. And perhaps its natural diet doesn’t consist of that species of crab either. Try swimmer crabs like small flower crabs. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app