soggycookies

Roughly 5 inches. Feeds on pellets, nori, market prawn. Going for $120. OR Trading for Harlequin Tuskfish(any size). Reason for selling: Getting bored of tangs and looking to try out exotic Rabbitfish species. Pm or whatsapp 9six3six0740 for photos Fcfs. Will trap fish when buyer confirms. Thank you Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Definitely looks like a slender seagrass octopus to me. the reef octopus species you can find locally look stunning but they also grow largest.. colors are often a blend of purple and blue. Awesome pic btw! makes me miss keeping cephalopods hahahah

Is that a slender seagrass, Bighead or Reef octopus? The latter 2 grow pretty large iirc Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Based on your current 2 choices I’d say go for the later setup. In the long run, you’ll find that upgrading to have more space for whatever it is you’re keeping- fish or coral, will be less of a hassle if you’ve already started bigger. A 4x2x2ft display with a sump is plenty enough IMO Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I think for this it depends on the size of your tank. Large angels will eventually pick fights with each other no matter what order you add them in if your system isn’t large enough. Very much like tangs I’d say Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You should probably add Angelfish of the genus holacanthus and Pomacanthus last as these tend to be the more aggressive ones. Especially if you’re adding larger specimens. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Up still looking Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Changi Beach also give away a lot Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

up

Looking for either one. Ideally 2 inches and above. Please pm or whatsapp 9six3six0740 if you have them for sale. Thanks

Looking for specimen preferably 3 inches and above. Please pm me or WhatsApp 9six3six0740 if you have one for sale. Thank you! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

That’s a whole lot of yellow tangs [emoji50] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

For a 4ft I wouldn’t worry with 12mm glass. Anything large than that, I wouldn’t risk it.. 15mm for peace of mind Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Try running a carbon reactor with activated carbon. If you don’t have one, a mesh bag with activated carbon in it in a high flow area works too. Should help with the water clarity Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If by reduce ich you mean by improving/maintaining water quality through frequent water changes to keep fish healthy and immunity from the parasite then yes, it does help. But it won’t get rid of the parasite unless you leave your system without fish for a period. There are many links on the internet that explain ich’s lifecycle and how it needs a host fish to survive and breed. What these formulas that claim to “cure” ich are are mostly fish immunity boosters to help the fish build a resistance and temporary immunity from it. It doesn’t get rid of the parasite. In the same vein, UV sterilisers prevent the ich population in your tank from outbreaks- they kill the Free-floating stages of the parasite but not the cysts(eggs) that attach to surfaces in your tank They do not cure ich either, only control and limit. Only known cure is like what ReeferPeter said, leaving system empty of fish for a period so the parasite has no host and starves to death. It’s usually tough to have a tank with completely no ich but not impossible, just requires a lot more patience and slightly more resources for controlled quarantine for anything wet that enters your tank Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

1. pH levels of 8.5 are, to begin with hard to maintain- most already struggle getting it to 8.3. Aiming for at least 7.8 is more realistic in your case. 7.8-8.4 is the recommended range. trying to speed up the pH increase process might be dangerous for your existing livestock too, as the sudden rapid change can cause them a lot of stress. 2. My guess is the algae on your rock is dying due to the lack of nutrients(i.e Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate & phosphate) and/or sufficient lighting to sustain them 3. Tank Cycling usually takes anywhere from 4-30 days depending on the amount of bacteria available to process a given amount of ammonia and nitrite to nitrate, but with the bacteria added, it speeds up the process- though personally I’d give it 2 weeks. Best bet is to add a small piece of prawn meat to the tank, let it sit while you add bacteria to the tank and measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. When you see 0 ammonia and nitrate and measure some nitrate, your tank should be ready for fish. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Turn off the skimmer and dose again according to the instructions on the bottle. It counts as chemical filtration which will remove the solution you add. P.S. I’m not disqualifying the brand or anything but the only true way of completely eliminating ich from your tank is by removing all the fish in it and treating them in a separate quarantine system, only reintroducing them after your tank goes without fish for 6-8 weeks. Read up about it Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If you are battling an ich issue in your system but aren’t willing to treat to completely get rid of the parasite(I.e remove all fish and treat in copper in QT and leave the tank without fish for 8weeks), not adding any new fish in addition to feeding well and keeping up with good water quality through water changes etc will eventually help your existing fish build up a resistance and eventually an immunity for the ones that do survive. The annoying thing about knowing you still have ich in your tank is that adding new fish or coral will always be a hit or miss and sometimes addition of new livestock will cause another outbreak due to the new or current fish being stressed and their immune systems compromised. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You can try Ah Beng aquarium. They update their stocks on their Facebook page very consistently. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Upss still looking Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

As per title. Juveniles also welcome. Pm or WhatsApp at 9six3six0740 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Egg capsule perhaps hahahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Depends on the rate of photosynthesis within the chaeto. The more nutrients there are and the stronger your Lighting for them is, the faster they grow. Generally speaking Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

By definition anything that has surface area for the cysts of certain parasites to attach onto in a system where they’re present has a possibility of spreading parasites hahahah. Perhaps this notion comes from the nature of chaeto having a lot of surface area in its thick curls of growth Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Pros: - what you mentioned(one of the faster macroalgaes for nitrate and phosphate removal) - doesn’t “go sexual” and reproduce which causes a massive cloud of toxins in the water like many species of caulerpa(the other fast growing macroalgae) - great refuge for microfauna(pods, brittlestars etc) Cons: - easily traps detritus in stagnant/Low flow areas - can get messy at times if not bunched up(which usually doesn’t happen unless they’re dying off) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app