Jump to content

soggycookies

SRC Member
  • Posts

    1,067
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Everything posted by soggycookies

  1. if GHA had to grow anywhere i’d rather it grow there than anywhere else in the tank so i think it’s a win hahahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  2. Thanks for the insight Rob. Doubt it will be anytime soon that the new model of tunze magnet cleaner will be available here considering everything going on lately. Is the piranha magnet cleaner you were referring to by algaefree? heard about one called the great white before.. from what you’re describing about the wood finish they sound very similar. Appreciate the suggestions. And yeah, what I like most about the tunze care magnet is using it for the stubborn calcareous algae before they get even harder to remove. Perhaps i’ll invest in a flipper magnet for easier routine cleaning. Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  3. Greetings reefers, What are some of your thoughts and opinions on these 2 higher end magnet cleaners? I have personally never had a flipper magnet cleaner but am currently using a Tunze Care Magnet strong+ on my 300G. Here are some of the pros & cons after using it on a 300G 3/4” glass tank: PROS - able to clean tougher algae(including coralline) off without needing to manually scrape with a blade - able to manoeuvre tight corners safely with less stress to silicone - magnet is so strong, it navigates from one panel of glass to the next without falling off in the process - small form factor on both wet and dry side means less distracting from viewing display + able to fit more snugly in scenarios where it might be used at the back of the tank CONS - small form factor coupled with very strong magnet means poor external grip on the dry side of the magnet, making it a hassle to use for day-to-day film algae that grows faster and covers a larger surface area of the glass - doesn’t float whatsoever - even the larger, longer blade is pretty small on a 6x3x2.5ft tank and along with the poor handling grip makes cleaning off day-to-day algae on the glass feel like it takes longer than it should Hope others who have the various versions of the Tunze Care magnets can correlate some of these points. More importantly, I’d like to learn from others who have used the flipper exclusively, and especially from those who have used both Tunze and Flipper magnet cleaners(or other brands) which they think is better, as I’m thinking of switching to a Flipper Max. I’ve heard that the flipper max is much easier to use on a daily basis. My main concern though, is that I have Hawaiian Black sand that has some magnetic properties as my substrate and worry using other types of magnet cleaners other than the Tunze Care line would jeopardise my glass when sand is trapped in between the magnet cleaner and the glass(already have a few scratches from an old magfloat that i used for a few months that trapped sand in the velcro and raked some sand across parts of my glass resulting in a couple of pretty awful scratches) Thoughts and experience using these cleaners would by much appreciated. Cheers and happy reefing everyone. Stay safe during the ‘Rona. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  4. those look like filter-feeding sponges/tunicates to me. no harm. they tend to grow in the overflow and initial compartment of the sump cause that’s where more of the debris goes first Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  5. sorry to hear you got velvet.. hyposalinity is ineffective on them too, which sucks. oh another thing that i find works very well in conjunction with polyplab dosing is feeding as generously as you can or rather as much as your fish will eat. i increased feeding from 5 spoonfuls of flakes to 10 a day, along with prawn meat and vitalis grazer daily(i only used to feed them those on alternate days). thankfully i only keep softies now hahahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  6. don’t need to be exact timing, more like around when the lights are off and again before they come on. hahahaha there’s no real “reef-safe cure” for ich/velvet bro. if there were it’d probably be a lot more expensive than polyplab($55-60 for a small bottle) and out of stock. medic kills them in their free-swimming stage but the problem is their cyst stage is they’re pretty damn tough. the reason why copper has to be run for a period of 2 weeks or more to be effective is cause of how hardy their cysts are that even cupramine can only get them when they’re free-swimming in the water column Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  7. usually before adding new fish or when I see a few spots on any of the existing fish. their instructions are to dose an amount relative to your tank volume twice daily for 10-20 days. their bottle is small so for bigger tanks you could probably only use it for 1 cycle of treatment. it’s essentially peroxide so while they say it’s reef safe i wouldn’t dose it directly into the DT because it will definitely irritate certain corals. won’t kill them but they might not open up for a day or 2 if they’re hit by a dissolving particle from what it looks like i don’t think there’s an expiry as long as humidity over time doesn’t affect it Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  8. typically can get them at ah beng with some frequency but with everything going on now we’ll probably have to wait a while. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  9. yeah wrasses are supposedly less tolerant of copper. recently i’ve given up on treating with cupramine as a reactive measure(trying to catch fish in a big system is a pain and moving also adds additional stress to a visibly infected fish)and switched to dosing polyplab medic into my main system instead. Thinking of installing a proper UV steriliser too, to reduce and control parasite populations(apparently polyplab is still relatively iffy as a measure depending on the parasite population in your tank. some even call it snake oil. it doesn’t get rid of ich but it manages their numbers) And adding anything whether fish, coral or even a snail or 2 or small frags in without quarantine will definitely put your tank at risk of another outbreak especially when many things are added within a short period of time. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  10. most likely ich. they have more of a mucus layer and are one of the types of fish you probably won’t spot visible signs of ich on the body, but still carry it. generally fish scratching against surfaces is a sign of a host of parasites but could also be gill irritation due to water quality/other factors. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  11. up. revised price $90 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  12. Back on sale. Previous buyer withdrew due to inadequate mount extension length. *Correction: Ideal for specifically 4ft tanks Light fixture length: 100cm Max length with mount extension: 144cm Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  13. found. thanks SRC Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  14. Anyone have some to let go? The common flowery type that pulses. The bigger the better. Saw a post a while back selling a huge colony on a rock but didn’t catch it in time. please pm or whatsapp nine6threesix07four0 if you have any. thanks! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  15. up. still looking for varieties like the one below too Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  16. no idea. probably not considering pet supplies/services can be considered an essential service.. but im guessing most if not all shipment will stop Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  17. yeah, new shipment for most of the stuff in the hobby probably isn’t possible at this time i’m guessing.. unless existing stock or from fellow reefers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  18. Welcome back! Personally I can relate hahaha, I used to keep marine fish as a kid and didn’t touch the hobby for years until after I’d graduated. The pull is always there. For fish info, you should only really rely completely on fishbase for the more scientific info. Unfortunately there are many sites that give decent info on the fish but nothing in-depth with regards to their behavior in captive, home-aquarium environments. Wetwebmedia is what I like to refer to for fish info with regards to aquariums, because the people running it are actually marine biologists/ichthyologists. Animal-world is also decent but a lot of their stuff is copypasta from other sources. IMO sites like reefapp and misc online saltwater fish retail should be taken with a grain of salt cause they are often generic and sometimes anecdotal observations don’t paint the clearest picture about specific fish behavior. You might even stumble upon fishing websites which give brief details(apparent observations rather) about various fish species, but personally I feel the best way to be the most sure is to amass knowledge from not just one or two sources but from as many as you can: anecdotal experiences from others in the hobby, scientific research online, forums, and the many available articles on the internet- and come to a conclusion yourself. Youtube is also a really good place to see what reefers keep in their tanks and marine biology documentaries/scuba videos to observe fish behaviour as well. Hope this helps Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  19. tentatively reserved Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  20. pmed you Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  21. most affordable: Coral farm most premium: reefing reality most variety: iwarna Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  22. If you have any to let go please pm or whatsapp me @ nine6three60seven40 cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  23. 48” Marine model. Good for FOWLR setups. Rudimentary in-built timer but good workhorse light, able to grow low light softies like gsp, xenia, zoas, mushrooms. Condition 7/10. $95 low budget fixture for those just starting out in saltwater aquaria. All LED chips still working fine. Collection in Pasir Ris. Feel free to come by to test. Pm or whatsapp 9six36zero7four0 if interested. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
  24. Personally I think it’s best to ask. From what I’ve heard/read on some older forums, some got their 6ft rejected by hdb while I’ve seen many folks keeping huge arowana tanks in their hdb units. No harm enquiring. More importantly imo is to make sure the tank/fittings can fit through the doors of the hdb unit in question. I got my 6x3x2.5ft tank cheap from a tank maker cause their original client realized it couldn’t fit through his door only after they’d made it.
×
×
  • Create New...