soggycookies

thanks for sharing your light settings. I’m also keen to learn more about the nitty-gritty of specific effects/purposes of different channels as far as wavelengths go. here’s a link on nano-reef.com about it. it’s from 2014 but i believe it still provides a basic understanding of color channels on a controllable led fixture: https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/352618-led-colors-and-what-they-are-used-for/ Personally I would go for a higher violet setting and lower the deep red channel in favor of a bit more cool white Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It’s likely that fish are more susceptible to ich not because of the salinity but because of inconsistent/unstable parameters or tankmate aggression. I’ve read similar things about a lower salinity reducing the likelihood of ich but it certainly does not resolve ich, like[mention=23740]SubZeroLT[/mention] mentioned. As for the salinity for coral, it’s as he mentioned too. 1.023 is below the recommended 1.024~1.028 range for a reeftank. most would run 1.026 but you can get away with it being slightly lower or higher, but 1.020~1.023 is too low Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks for sharing again. a well-deserved bump. simple to use Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Lately been attempting to save a BTA that expelled a whole lot of zooxanthellae(after i made the mistake of dosing polyplab medic directly into my main display) and it was close to bleaching out completely(only had colour at the edge of its tips.) 2 months in and it looks a whole lot better. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

i think just keep doing what you’re doing as per the bio s/ammonia instructions until you can add your first livestock. in this scenario most of the time your tank is close to or already cycled so just maintaining a decent bacteria population is good enough Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

by water conditioner i’m assuming you mean a biostarter(i.e bacteria)? If your tank is new cycling it first is a must if you want to avoid problems with adding new livestock. also, 1.020~1.022 is generally too low a salinitt for corals, so i’m also guessing you’re looking at a fish-only tank? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I doubt the high nitrate reading will stall the cycle, if anything it just means the population of bacteria processing ammonia and nitrite into nitrate is rapidly growing. if there’s no livestock in your system yet i would just continue as per normal until you read 0 ammonia and nitrites Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks for sharing your meticulous maintenance schedule with us Leon. Always a great reference point for others in the hobby. Cheers! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

sorry to hear about the AEFW. feels like marine velvet but for sps dominant keepers.. instances like these where and when an upheaval of our main system is necessary really tests our mettle in this hobby i think. both a good and a bad thing. hope you weather through this one! (i guess this is one of the bright sides of it being CB now hahahah) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks. Currently there’s a 9” Batfish, desjardini tang, green pastel wrasse and several other small fish in it with mangroves. But planning to do away with the latter eventually cause getting too squeezy in there(it’s a 4x2.5x2.5ft display) for my batfish. thinking of just going back to a peaceful fowlr and getting a cowfish and some tropical butterflies or a nice blueface angel Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

My favorite Pink Pulsing Sinularia leather comparison shots from: 17th Mar ‘20 to 9th May ‘20

great explanation of the importance of RO/DI water Rob! keep the detailed overviews coming! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks! The only staple with more leathers in the tank imo(besides the fundamentals like a skimmer, chiller etc) is the need to run activated carbon, so that every coral stays open/extended more often. Here’s a Skimz FM-150 fluidized reactor running AC that reliably processes my tank volume(approx. 1,200L) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

What I use as my ATO reservoir: a FILUR model laundry bin from Ikea. This one in particular can store up to about 28L of water. Running my system at 27.7 degrees celsius, I replenish the ATO reservoir once every 8-10 days. Personally, I find it compact, and it doesn’t take up much surface area at the base due to its small width footprint. Isn’t an eyesore to look at(if you need to place your ato anywhere other than within the sump cabinet)too. Definitely not as bulky and unsightly as a regular mixing bin/barrel. It can also easily store more than 20L of water, and comes conveniently with a flippable lid. Great for large systems. I also have the larger model that can contain up to 40L, which I use for my semi-outdoor system that runs without a chiller and has a higher average temperature. Depending on the day-to-day temperature, it can take anywhere between 10 and 15 days to completely empty. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

ime when hair algae starts to turn white and fine like this it’s gradually dying off. keep at it bro! with additional manual removal the spread should eventually stop Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Leathers: Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Cloves/Xeniidae: Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Mushrooms: Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

GSP: Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Some weekend evening shots of a few softies. Planning to fill up my 300G with more mushrooms after the CB ends! Toadstools: Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Custom flow settings on my maxspect gyre via the icv6 controller: - 1hr of alternating gyre @ 20~60% speed - 30mins of random flow @ ~50% speed - 10mins of gradual pulsing @ ~70% speed Didn’t opt for a higher speed on the flow settings on this one cause I’m also running a Jebao RW-20 from my older system that’s still going strong after 3 years. The downside of course is being an older budget options, it isn’t wi-fi compatible unlike the Maxspect gyres. The main pros of this is I’m running it at near 100% flow and it moves a whole lot of water, more than any other wavemaker I’ve used, perfect for a 6x3x2.5ft system like mine. Fewer deadspots in the tank and the flow from it isn’t overwhelming due to the horizontal depth of the display. I used it in my older 5x2x2ft system and it was far too powerful back then. Would certainly cause sandstorms when used at a speed setting any higher than 20%. Currently though, I can have it at near max speed settings in wave mode on my 300G and thankfully the sand stays put for the most part. The flow patterns in my tank are far more turbulent with the variation offered by the maxspect gyre’s controllability and generally laminar flow, while the old RW-20 is there in conjunction mostly as the workhorse and wider cone of flow that’s peddling a lot of oomph throughout the system as far as simulating a natural current is concerned. With only these 2 wavemakers and a constant stream from the return line, I arranged my rockwork in a manner that would create plenty of cavernous structures to allow flow to pass through and around them well enough that I wouldn’t need to worry about deadspots in a larger system. An added benefit is that I can view the tank from multiple angles(tank is in my living room just below a mezzanine, so I can view it from 4 angles. This eases maintenance and helps me to spot frags that might have gotten knocked over or fish that may be hiding due aggression, or observe where certain burrowing species like wrasses hide at night(if I need to remove them for whatever reason) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Custom flow settings on my maxspect gyre via the icv6 controller: - 1hr of alternating gyre @ 20~60% speed - 30mins of random flow @ ~50% speed - 10mins of gradual pulsing @ ~70% speed Didn’t opt for a higher speed on the flow settings on this one cause I’m also running a Jebao RW-20 from my older system that’s still going strong after 3 years. The downside of course is being an older budget options, it isn’t wi-fi compatible unlike the Maxspect gyres. The main pros of this is I’m running it at near 100% flow and it moves a whole lot of water, more than any other wavemaker I’ve used, perfect for a 6x3x2.5ft system like mine. Fewer deadspots in the tank and the flow from it isn’t overwhelming due to the horizontal depth of the display. I used it in my older 5x2x2ft system and it was far too powerful back then. Would certainly cause sandstorms when used at a speed setting any higher than 20%. Currently though, I can have it at near max speed settings in wave mode on my 300G and thankfully the sand stays put for the most part. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Spectrum settings of my maxspect RSX. (running 16,000k) decided to go with their lights cause I can use them in sync with my icv6 running my gyres. 4 channel settings what are your custom settings on your light fixtures? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

i think if you’re keeping mostly softies AF seasalt should be fine. the main thing i would want reef salt over it is for a generally higher pH Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Anyone else with a black sand bottom? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app