soggycookies

Couldn’t agree more on point no. 2 I think customer service is what truly sets the various LFS apart, cause like you said, even though we can assume and place our trust in our most patronized LFS, we can’t exactly be sure where and how they were caught either, cause most of the fish probably came a long way and went through a number of middlemen before the LFS, then to the consumer. Then again it’s not so bad here as it is in the states or UK cause Singapore is also part of SEA/tropical Asian regions which is where most of the fishes come from IMO the LFS that are most transparent about where their fish were from and how they were obtained are perhaps the more reliable choice, but who knows how the fish were actually obtained and transported at the source? In that time they may have been bundled with plenty other fish for hours with no food. This is probably why many LFS promote pellet-eating, ‘stable’ fishes. But again, it’s up to the consumer to do their due diligence to Ensure that the fish truly is alright. I’ve seen fish that are feeding well suddenly die 2 Days later due to diseases like velvet. Very common in the aquarium trade due to the way fishes are shipped/transported together en masse. Also I’m pretty sure unethical practice of capture like via cyanide is still common in places like Indonesia and the Philippines. And with more and more bans from other more reputable places like Hawaii and Australia(the latter tends to really jack up the prices too), our bargain hunter of a community is certainly more prone to getting the cheaper options that tend to come from sources like Indonesia and the Philippines. Either way, TLDR; catch your own fish so you know exactly how it was obtained heh [emoji51] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

‘Black ich’ is actually a parasitic worm. If I’m not mistaken, praziquantel works for this. Doesn’t work on regular ich cause regular ich is a protozoan parasite and not a worm. Praziquantel should be Reef-safe unless you have ornamental worms in your system. But as with any other treatment a QT is always the most ideal Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Found. Mods please assist to delete this thread. Thanks SRC Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hahahah. Stuff like this reminds me of the Dettol method of dipping corals. Effective, but can go horribly wrong if you don’t know what you’re doing Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks for the insight! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

In a large system, sure. In a nano tank? Fish, sure. Can’t say the same about the anemones and soft corals Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If you can accommodate a large refugium with ample macroalgae, that’s one of the best ways of nitrate export without water changes imo. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Still searching. Up Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Tried stability and microbacter 7, both do fine. Stability after 4 days using NSW with dry rock, then added a Butterflyfish in. No issues. On the contrary I got too hasty with microbacter 7, ran it for a week, added the entire bottle over that duration in a 300+gal system, thinking it was enough to immediately put in several medium-large fishes. Lost all of them in the process. The longer your cycle, the safer it tends to be. But yes bottled bac does work- just don’t get your expectations too high if you’re adding a lot of livestock in all at once Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looking for large individual pieces of rock. Don’t have a preference except for size- (preferably around vertical 1.5L bottle in length). Not looking for shelf. Aquaroche/Tonga/generic rocks. Budget $100 Pls pm or WhatsApp 9636 zero 7 four 0 if you have any to sell. Thanks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

bump

up

Up Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looking for the above. The bigger the better. Please pm me or msg/whatsapp 9636 zero 7 4 zero if you have any for sale. Thanks

It’s a noble volute Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Helps to oxygenate your water more which might help speed up bacteria cultivation but at the same time if its capacity is well above your total volume, it might remove quite a bit of the nutrients necessary for a cycle to sustain itself, unless you plan to cycle with livestock already in the system Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It’s hard for light to reach the 3rd layer and you’re better off getting a remote tank or a chaeto reactor for your chaeto bro. The stuff needs light to grow and thrive Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Ideally you would only dose cupramine/misc. copper treatments in your hospital tank, because even if your system is a fish-only, if you wanna add corals and other invertebrates in the future, you’re gonna need to clean out your entire tank because things like algae and rocks absorb copper as well and may leach them out in the future Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Finally found. Collected from a nice reefer. Thanks SRC. Mods please assist to delete this thread Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Sorry for your loss, Nasos are among the most endearing of tangs imo. Yeah and it’s not necessarily the retailers’ fault all the time either, cause many times down the chain we may not know how exactly our fish were collected at the source. The middlemen who buy the fish from the divers or villagers who catch them may lie and withhold information to sell their catch. After all who’d wanna buy fish if they knew they were caught with cyanide right? Still a common practice in Indonesia and Philippines. Another reason why fish from Sri Lanka and the Red Sea tend to ship better. Australia is probably the best shipper(but it’s reflected in their typically hefty prices too) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Where did you get your fish from? Sometimes in this hobby purchased fish are collected with cyanide and eventually die in captivity no matter how good the parameters are due to cyanide poisoning. Unless all your other fish are also dying, it might be that. If you buy many different ones from different retailers and they all still die.. then it’s probably an issue with your tank parameters. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Definitely ok to add fish but like@reef tan said, good to do a couple of 30% water changes to get the nitrates down. As Long as your Ammonia and nitrite test 0, you’re good to go. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

True indeed. While far less likely than it coming from infected fish, there is still a chance that the ich parasite cysts are on the rock or structure that the coral comes on, just like any other coral parasite. Some say dips work the same on ich, but from what I’ve read, they are immune in their cyst stage to even 30min freshwater baths. Only drying them out will completely kill them, which is of course impossible in this case without killing your livestock as well. In an ideal world we’d quarantine even corals, but I’m sure only the most extreme of us would go to such lengths hahaha. What you could do at the very least to lower the chances of ich entering your system through new corals/rock is place your coral/rock in a holding tank with water from your main display for a few hours after dipping them in a coral dip, with no fishes. Isn’t foolproof but might help a bit. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

To add on, even if it’s a fish-only, treating your entire Display tank will no doubt also kill any clean-up crew and other misc. invertebrates within the rock which in smaller systems would cause an Ammonia/nitrite spike which could potentially wipe the whole system. A treatment QT is ideal Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just drip-acclimate like you would other fish before putting them in. Cuttlefish are very sensitive to copper as well so make sure if you’re treating your fish don’t share the same water Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app