soggycookies

I would recommend Iwarna. They also openly place many of their fishes in a copper treated system which could help to minimise the risk of you bringing lethal diseases like marine velvet and uronema home. For variety, I used to go to Pacific Reef(Ah Beng). Some folks have said fish from there aren’t healthy and rumors are that many are caught with cyanide but hey, if it’s true, then it’s probably also true for other LFS as long as the source supplier was from parts of Indonesia/Philippines. Personally, I’ve not had many issues from Pacific Reef’s livestock that differ much from other LFS I’ve gotten my fish from. In the past I’ve bought from places like Aquamarin Aquatic Pets, Coral Farm, Pinnacle Aquatics, the Fish Channel, and Jireh Marine. Bought enough to ultimately realize that it’s really more up to your care of the fish and careful selection/acclimation and quarantine procedures than it is which LFS you get it from. After all, we as the end buyer can’t determine exactly how the fish were caught, handled and shipped. It’s up to us to trust whichever LFS we want and do our own part to make sure the fish gets into our system as healthy as possible and stays that way. Personally I QT all my fish for a minimum of 2 weeks before placing them in my main system. I’d say if you lack a quarantine tank, go for iwarna or an LFS you know you can place a deposit for and let your fish sit in quarantine and get if after a week or 2 to see for yourself if it’s healthy. Fishes from SAS are much pricier from what I’ve seen, but their establishment does seem a lot more reliable in terms of fish health(they probably quarantine a lot and accept nothing but the most premium shipment(just my assumption). They also seem to cater to the more upper-class crowd.(Just my observation) For variety I’d still say Pacific Reef and Iwarna. Coral Farm has fishes in very poor condition from what I’ve seen many times. I’ve bought Clownfish from them that never survived more than a week despite quarantine. But that said, I also got a marine betta from them that survived marine velvet. So yeah hope you get the point. With no clear idea of where individual fish are specifically sourced, you can never be 100% sure. Lengthy post but I hope this helped. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks for the heads up bro [emoji1360] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Anyone selling theirs/seen any at LFS recently? Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I think it’s a better idea to wait for your AI Prime to arrive. Reason being that if you get cheap lighting, while only temporary- may allow algae to get a head start and potentially by the time you want to start growing your zoas, pest algaes may have gained a foothold in your tank because lights will no doubt grow algae sooner or later. Especially if it’s not a suitable spectrum for reeftanks. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Eventually you’ll get algae growth, the difference between going bare-bottom vs sand is algae is more likely to grow all over the base of the tank that isn’t covered by live rock or sand. In the long-term some people like that cause you can practically get a bottom that is purple with coralline algae, but in the short-term it may look like the worst thing ever when there’s undesirable algaes or diatoms taking up real estate on the bottom of your tank. (Though imo diatoms on white sand look worse) As Long as you’re not overstocked with fish and have some manner of a clean-up crew a sandbed isn’t much maintenance at all, dare I say vacuuming isn’t even necessary in those cases. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

7.8-8 pH is just fine. Definitely safer than a ph of 9 which is too high. The highest end of the spectrum is 8.5 and he lowest is 7.8 for a stable range. Generally the ideal value is 8.3 only if you’re going for fastest possible coral growth. Otherwise, as long as your pH doesn’t dip below 7.8, it should be alright. What substrate are you using, if any? High quality sand(aragonite, sand from a reef/coral skeletons) will help to maintain a higher pH range in both small and large systems. Having a refugium with macroalgae that operates on an inverse light cycle(i.e refugium lights come on display lights go off) and using the bubbling method can also help prevent pH swings(especially at night). You can read up more about the latter two if you’re interested, but they tend to work only if applied consistently. Hope this helps in some way Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I got mine from ah Beng back when they were still in Pasir Ris. And yes can confirm, seaview sells it too. Prazigold by EIHO. Just got a new bottle last weekend. They’ve moved to 8 Chencharu Link Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Are you adding bacteria to seed your rock? It drastically shortens the length of the cycle(less than a week in some cases). Getting live rock from an LFS will also help to speed up the process. Be sure to have test kits on hand too. Once you test for 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite, you’re good to put fish in. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

While very unlikely, there is a chance that their cysts settle on any hard surface like the shells of inverts. The same can be said for velvet. It all comes down to how lucky(or unlucky) you are I guess , though I’m certain the chances of it coming from LFS water or a healthy-looking fish that can still carry these parasites are much, much higher. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

More specifically it would signify stability. You can have good water at any one time like after a big water change but if it isn’t consistently decent at least, you probably won’t see much coralline growth in the long term Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looks like coralline algae to me Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Couldn’t agree more on point no. 2 I think customer service is what truly sets the various LFS apart, cause like you said, even though we can assume and place our trust in our most patronized LFS, we can’t exactly be sure where and how they were caught either, cause most of the fish probably came a long way and went through a number of middlemen before the LFS, then to the consumer. Then again it’s not so bad here as it is in the states or UK cause Singapore is also part of SEA/tropical Asian regions which is where most of the fishes come from IMO the LFS that are most transparent about where their fish were from and how they were obtained are perhaps the more reliable choice, but who knows how the fish were actually obtained and transported at the source? In that time they may have been bundled with plenty other fish for hours with no food. This is probably why many LFS promote pellet-eating, ‘stable’ fishes. But again, it’s up to the consumer to do their due diligence to Ensure that the fish truly is alright. I’ve seen fish that are feeding well suddenly die 2 Days later due to diseases like velvet. Very common in the aquarium trade due to the way fishes are shipped/transported together en masse. Also I’m pretty sure unethical practice of capture like via cyanide is still common in places like Indonesia and the Philippines. And with more and more bans from other more reputable places like Hawaii and Australia(the latter tends to really jack up the prices too), our bargain hunter of a community is certainly more prone to getting the cheaper options that tend to come from sources like Indonesia and the Philippines. Either way, TLDR; catch your own fish so you know exactly how it was obtained heh [emoji51] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

‘Black ich’ is actually a parasitic worm. If I’m not mistaken, praziquantel works for this. Doesn’t work on regular ich cause regular ich is a protozoan parasite and not a worm. Praziquantel should be Reef-safe unless you have ornamental worms in your system. But as with any other treatment a QT is always the most ideal Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Found. Mods please assist to delete this thread. Thanks SRC Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hahahah. Stuff like this reminds me of the Dettol method of dipping corals. Effective, but can go horribly wrong if you don’t know what you’re doing Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thanks for the insight! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

In a large system, sure. In a nano tank? Fish, sure. Can’t say the same about the anemones and soft corals Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If you can accommodate a large refugium with ample macroalgae, that’s one of the best ways of nitrate export without water changes imo. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Still searching. Up Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Tried stability and microbacter 7, both do fine. Stability after 4 days using NSW with dry rock, then added a Butterflyfish in. No issues. On the contrary I got too hasty with microbacter 7, ran it for a week, added the entire bottle over that duration in a 300+gal system, thinking it was enough to immediately put in several medium-large fishes. Lost all of them in the process. The longer your cycle, the safer it tends to be. But yes bottled bac does work- just don’t get your expectations too high if you’re adding a lot of livestock in all at once Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looking for large individual pieces of rock. Don’t have a preference except for size- (preferably around vertical 1.5L bottle in length). Not looking for shelf. Aquaroche/Tonga/generic rocks. Budget $100 Pls pm or WhatsApp 9636 zero 7 four 0 if you have any to sell. Thanks Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

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Looking for the above. The bigger the better. Please pm me or msg/whatsapp 9636 zero 7 4 zero if you have any for sale. Thanks