soggycookies

Changi Beach also give away a lot Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

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Looking for either one. Ideally 2 inches and above. Please pm or whatsapp 9six3six0740 if you have them for sale. Thanks

Looking for specimen preferably 3 inches and above. Please pm me or WhatsApp 9six3six0740 if you have one for sale. Thank you! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

That’s a whole lot of yellow tangs [emoji50] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

For a 4ft I wouldn’t worry with 12mm glass. Anything large than that, I wouldn’t risk it.. 15mm for peace of mind Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Try running a carbon reactor with activated carbon. If you don’t have one, a mesh bag with activated carbon in it in a high flow area works too. Should help with the water clarity Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If by reduce ich you mean by improving/maintaining water quality through frequent water changes to keep fish healthy and immunity from the parasite then yes, it does help. But it won’t get rid of the parasite unless you leave your system without fish for a period. There are many links on the internet that explain ich’s lifecycle and how it needs a host fish to survive and breed. What these formulas that claim to “cure” ich are are mostly fish immunity boosters to help the fish build a resistance and temporary immunity from it. It doesn’t get rid of the parasite. In the same vein, UV sterilisers prevent the ich population in your tank from outbreaks- they kill the Free-floating stages of the parasite but not the cysts(eggs) that attach to surfaces in your tank They do not cure ich either, only control and limit. Only known cure is like what ReeferPeter said, leaving system empty of fish for a period so the parasite has no host and starves to death. It’s usually tough to have a tank with completely no ich but not impossible, just requires a lot more patience and slightly more resources for controlled quarantine for anything wet that enters your tank Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

1. pH levels of 8.5 are, to begin with hard to maintain- most already struggle getting it to 8.3. Aiming for at least 7.8 is more realistic in your case. 7.8-8.4 is the recommended range. trying to speed up the pH increase process might be dangerous for your existing livestock too, as the sudden rapid change can cause them a lot of stress. 2. My guess is the algae on your rock is dying due to the lack of nutrients(i.e Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate & phosphate) and/or sufficient lighting to sustain them 3. Tank Cycling usually takes anywhere from 4-30 days depending on the amount of bacteria available to process a given amount of ammonia and nitrite to nitrate, but with the bacteria added, it speeds up the process- though personally I’d give it 2 weeks. Best bet is to add a small piece of prawn meat to the tank, let it sit while you add bacteria to the tank and measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. When you see 0 ammonia and nitrate and measure some nitrate, your tank should be ready for fish. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Turn off the skimmer and dose again according to the instructions on the bottle. It counts as chemical filtration which will remove the solution you add. P.S. I’m not disqualifying the brand or anything but the only true way of completely eliminating ich from your tank is by removing all the fish in it and treating them in a separate quarantine system, only reintroducing them after your tank goes without fish for 6-8 weeks. Read up about it Hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If you are battling an ich issue in your system but aren’t willing to treat to completely get rid of the parasite(I.e remove all fish and treat in copper in QT and leave the tank without fish for 8weeks), not adding any new fish in addition to feeding well and keeping up with good water quality through water changes etc will eventually help your existing fish build up a resistance and eventually an immunity for the ones that do survive. The annoying thing about knowing you still have ich in your tank is that adding new fish or coral will always be a hit or miss and sometimes addition of new livestock will cause another outbreak due to the new or current fish being stressed and their immune systems compromised. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You can try Ah Beng aquarium. They update their stocks on their Facebook page very consistently. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Upss still looking Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

As per title. Juveniles also welcome. Pm or WhatsApp at 9six3six0740 Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Egg capsule perhaps hahahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Depends on the rate of photosynthesis within the chaeto. The more nutrients there are and the stronger your Lighting for them is, the faster they grow. Generally speaking Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

By definition anything that has surface area for the cysts of certain parasites to attach onto in a system where they’re present has a possibility of spreading parasites hahahah. Perhaps this notion comes from the nature of chaeto having a lot of surface area in its thick curls of growth Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Pros: - what you mentioned(one of the faster macroalgaes for nitrate and phosphate removal) - doesn’t “go sexual” and reproduce which causes a massive cloud of toxins in the water like many species of caulerpa(the other fast growing macroalgae) - great refuge for microfauna(pods, brittlestars etc) Cons: - easily traps detritus in stagnant/Low flow areas - can get messy at times if not bunched up(which usually doesn’t happen unless they’re dying off) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You could drop by Iwarna in Pasir Ris. Friendly and helpful staff. If you’re in the West/central part of Singapore I’d recommend Aquamarin Aquatic Pets or Reefing Reality. The latter tends to stock up mostly on premium grade corals. Hope you find what you’re looking for. Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Nope. Perhaps you could share some photos of your sump setup Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Try placing your ATO in your return chamber section away from where the sock is(assuming your drain line is into the sock in its own chamber) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

What are you missing? Either way it should be fine as long as it isn’t overflowing and since you’re getting skimmate in the collection cup all should be fine. If you’re afraid it might overflow again just monitor the water level in the skimmer neck/column and adjust the white tube accordingly Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

There should be a cap above the thick white tube like@Solo77 mentioned. It’s the valve adjuster to alter the water level in the skimmer. Incorrect water height is probably what is causing your skimmer to overflow all the time, IME using BM skimmers having it on a low setting(between 0 & 1) is what will set the water height in the skimmer lower. Also you might want to tweak the air intake but from your video it looks as though some parts of the skimmer are missing(air intake adjustment cap) Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Pmed you bro Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

IMO if it wasn’t previously a saltwater system, bleaching is unnecessary. Perhaps just rinse the whole system with tap water with dechlorinator and then drain it before starting your system up proper starting the cycle Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app