soggycookies

As above. To seed system again after removing diadema urchins that cleaned my tank out of most of the coralline algae that used to be there [emoji28] Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Unless you your tank is barebottom + mainly for sps i think a regular ol’ Wavemaker of appropriate size is more ideal than a gyre considering it’s a nano tank. Gyres tend to be better for larger systems where deadspots are more of a concern Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Since you’re keeping corals you might want to invest in a chiller for the long-term. During hotter months temperatures can go well above 30 degrees. Not great for any type of coral. Stability is key Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

That’s what I thought too at first, until I read up more in depth about common parasites like ich and their life cycle. The reason tank transfer works so well is because they’re exploiting the time during which the parasites on the Fish drop off into their free-Swimming phase(which is when copper is able to kill them). Usually this starts to happen after the first 72 hours, during which time if you’re QTing only one Fish at a time, the ectoparasites that may survive the copper dose are unlikely to reinfect the same Fish within such a short period. Before they can potentially repopulate, the week is over and I transfer the fish to the Paraguard bath to get rid of any potential loose ends and I must say the product has not let me down so far. The medicated bath for a few hours really seem to get rid of all the nasties, and the freshwater dip before finally introducing them to the main system serves as some insurance lol Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

For the past year or so I’ve been trying something else as an alternative to a full quarantine: 1 week in QT, then before adding to main system, put fish in Paraguard medicated bath for 1-4hours, followed by a 5min freshwater dip as a secondary safety net. Seems to work really well, haven’t had any parasite or disease issues since. But perhaps I’m just lucky hahaha. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

If you bought it and it looked pale already. Chances are it was already dying to begin with. The whiter it gets, the less likely it’s gonna make it- whether or not you feed it. Since the symbiotic algae within its tissue that it needs for energy is entirely gone Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Better to use a Wavemaker or powerhead and direct it slightly towards the surface to create more water agitation. Air bubbles are fine for saltwater but the rapid salt spray from a bubbler will eventually corrode everything around your tank Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

When you bought it was it already this whitish like this? Or did the colors change Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It looks completely bleached out(symbiotic algae that makes it able to photosynthesize all gone) so it can’t get energy like most anemones always would- through light Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Iwarna aquafarm. Livestock from them tends to fare better, with affordable pricing too. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Yep they do. Bubbletip anemones host most Clownfish species Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

What’s your system’s total volume? If your tank is pretty large, small 20% water changes aren’t gonna do much at all, even if you do multiple. The massive water vol will just nullify the wc. Needs bigger % changes upwards of 50 if you really wanna see a dent. Try carbon dosing Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Cheers. You can definitely put more nassarius snails- they’re typically small and since the sandbar has the most surface area in the tank, getting more of them wouldn’t be a bad idea. I think the ratio is fine, but better to go by the demands of your system than follow a static number. E.g. if your tank doesn’t get fed much/has very few fish, it wouldn’t make sense to stock up too much CUC. Turbo snails usually aren’t as necessary if you have fish that voraciously eat algae like a Tang(but most people don’t keep tangs in a nano anyway) so a handful of them would definitely be worth it for algae control of the rockwork. I tend to stay away from hermit crabs cause they sometimes eat the snails that are also part of your cuc since they don’t grow with their shells so they do this sometimes to acquire a new shell. Shrimp are great as CUC too, I just don’t keep them because I find too many fish eventually consider them prey and enjoy nipping their legs until it eventually dies or gets eaten. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Nassarius snails and members of the conch family(like gong-gong) are good sandbed Cleaners, and turbo snails are great for the rockwork. Neither should be able to shift the scape about to the point it topples over, as they’re fairly light compared to cuc with heavier shells like cowries. For a nano, you might wanna avoid getting starfish and urchins, as most will eventually find a way to mess up the rockwork in a small tank. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Perhaps the water he was storing was used water with some amount of nutrients in it. Either way, unless it’s a very resilient(nice way of calling it stubborn lol) algae, most need a decent light source to thrive Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Using copperband butterflyfishes is a great choice in the short term but if you care about the lives of these animals I’d avoid getting one unless you have the patience to train it to eat frozen food. Once all the aiptasia is gone these guys tend to die slowly from starvation Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Bristletail filefish or copperband butterflyfish for aiptasia(the former is more hardy but may nip on fleshy lps corals too and the latter is safer but is more prone to dying of starvation). Many species of wrasses(like coris, sixline etc)eat parasites like flatworms and isopods that might harm your corals, though they tend to stay away from larger nudis. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

You can try getting rocks from fellow reefers. Some sell em’ cheap due to decomm but be wary sometimes it’s because of other issues you may not know of.. like parasites/contamination etc hahaha Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

It could be due to competition for food in the tank since they eat the same things: algae. Though it may just be down to the individual fish’s temperament. I had smaller Rabbitfish that would chase my Wrasse and each other all over the tank, but my foot-Long Rabbitfish is a gentle giant and model citizen in my tank now who leaves everyone alone and just does his own thing. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

ATS/refugiums with macroalgae will be useful for any system, so Long as you have the space for it. If your sump isn’t that big, an ATS or macroalgae reactor would probably be more ideal. Big refugiums are most effective but to get noticeable results from them they need to be large, preferably 50% the size of your main display or more. For smaller systems with large remote refugiums, some can be so effective at nutrient export that you don’t even need a skimmer, just good lighting and macroalgae to soak in all the nitrates and phosphates. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I’m not too sure about the smaller systems that come together with a sump as a full set but you can try some of the lfs like freshnmarine and deaquatic. As for what should go into your sump, definitely a skimmer, ATO system.. the 2 fundamentals. Algae turf scrubbers or macroalgae reactors are a nice option to conserve space and serve as nutrient export. If you’re planning on keeping lots of corals in there, activated carbon in a reactor would also be a beneficial addition. Personally in a smaller system I would forgo a refugium entirely and focus on small reactors that can fit in your sump. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Unless you’re experienced with DIY or know someone who is, I think it’s better to get a new system that’s already ready-made with both display and sump included, especially if you’re just starting out(for peace of mind) As for plumbing I believe either is fine, as Long as it doesn’t generate too much noise or take up too much space in your display. As for the sump, you’ll definitely want a chamber that can fit the skimmer of your choice, with a suitable water level for said section. That’s perhaps the most important thing to keep in mind when designing a sump. As for a refugium.. I doubt there’s enough space for one that would be effective. Better to plumb it to a remote refugium tank for smaller systems that don’t have much room in their sumps. Auto TOP off shouldn’t be an issue, they come in very small form factors these days. Hope this helps, and all the best Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looked completely bleached out Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

For corals, definitely a sump tank where you can fit in a skimmer. In a tank with corals as the main focus that + an ato system is all you need for low maintenance corals imo Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

I think TS meant its polyps weren’t extending Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app