soggycookies

sorry about your achilles tang. did you happen to add more cupramine/copper since the last post? i really suspect it’s a faulty test kit. stop adding the copper treatment and do a full water change. start the qt process with your remaining fish again but don’t dose copper until you can guarantee that your test kit is working. all the best Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

depends on the fish. if they have a high metabolism like anthias or chromis, more frequent but smaller feedings are the way to go. if bigger fish that don’t move around as much generally you can feed them heavier but less often. for clownfish i’d say twice a day medium feeding is fine Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

yeah you could do that if you notice visible stress from the parasite. otherwise i would just leave them be and feed well to keep their immunity high. just removing them from where they’re in and transferring back and forth causes some amount of stress which might lower their immunity Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

yeah you could do that if you notice visible stress from the parasite. otherwise i would just leave them be and feed well to keep their immunity high. just removing them from where they’re in and transferring back and forth causes some amount of stress which might lower their immunity Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

if they look like they’re getting better, continue as per normal. fishes are generally resilient if they’re feeding well and can build an immunity to ich over time as long as the stress levels are kept low. cheers! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

First thing to be aware of is ich will stay in the main tank as long as you have fish in it. treating them separately in a hospital/qt tank will eliminate the localized ich on the fish in the stage of their life cycle where they attach to a fish host and then detach and are killed by hyposalinity/copper treatment, but the main tank will still have ich unless you go fishless for the duration of the pathogenic parasite’s life cycle. that is why people keep saying “6-8 weeks”- they’re referring to the parasite’s life cycle. that said, i wouldn’t go out of my way to completely eradicate ich from my system now by going fishless etc. if it means i’m just gonna reintroduce it by adding fish without quarantining/treating them before adding in the future. one thing you could do to minimize the spread of ich(assuming you don’t qt) is dip your fish before adding them to the main display in a medicated bath or freshwater. i used to only freshwater dip for 5mins, but now I use seachem paraguard and give new fish a 2-hour bath in it according to the dose instructions after acclimating them to the water from the tank i want to place them in. IME this is less stressful on the fish while giving them a buffer before going in, effectively killing 2 birds with one stone as far as parasite management goes. hope this helps Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looking for a 3-4inch specimen. pls pm if you have any to let go. cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Added some clean-up crew. I know it probably looks more like I’m introducing food than cuc in the form of a hermit crab in a tank with a porcupine puffer, but the latter doesn’t seem at all interested in the hermit crab- likely because it is a behemoth species: Dardanus megistos(the largest hermit crabs are of this genus). A good thing for me cause the white-spotted hermit itself is such a beauty in the display tank itself. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

could be a faulty test kit. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Finally added my first fish today: Meet Puffcake the locally collected longspine Porcupine Puffer! happy camper. he really loves the cave network in the aquascape Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Some finishing touches to the aquascape: a couple of structures I put together with some small rocks I attached together with DD’s epoxy/putty(in coralline algae colours, which I purchased way back in 2018 but forgot about completely). Pretty satisfied with my aquascape for the 180G fowlr considering all this was done with balance rocks from older systems that weren’t the best pieces as the bulk of my best-looking rocks are already in the 300G. Main viewing side(upon entering from the house gate): Front: View from the living room(indoor side): Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Water took about 2 days to clear after I added sand. Had I added the rock and sand before the water it’d probably have taken half the time. some pics of the process: Once the water had looked relatively clear, I added some additional media into the sump as well as 3 clumps of chaetomorpha. Still contemplating whether to run the sump lights 24/7 or on a 12-hour cycle via a timer. Nearly done!

Finally got around to adding sand. For this setup, I went with Caribsea’s 1-2mm grain special grade, as I prefer my sand staying put or at the very least not get blown about by the flow in my tank. The still relatively small grain size will mean while it’s not the finest substrate it’s also still a viable habitat for sand-dwellers such as gobies and halichoeres wrasses. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Planned for the aquascape with the balance of live rocks I had from a previous commission. the final result in the display tank: Initially I’d planned for a taller rockscape cause the tall DT(2.5ft high) afforded that, but realized I didn’t have enough large rocks for the middle column of support after the base rock. The end result could have been better but at least I managed to create a network of several caves for this aquascape, ideal for fish-only setups like the one I have in mind. Even managed to create a top structure with a couple of volcano-like orifices at the peak: Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

yes. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Got myself a 30x15x15cm acrylic fish acclimation box that can function as a fishtrap as well from rms recently to replace my very rudimentary one I got from Nanyang Trading/Seaview Aquarium that used to be at Jalan Kayu(now at Chencharu Link). Admittedly I wasn’t been the biggest fan of acclimation boxes in the main display but plans to add more tangs to my system in the near future convinced me I need something like this. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

do you use an autofeeder? that could help with species with high metabolism that need to eat smaller amounts more frequently like anthias and butterflies Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

was it aggression that was the issue? recently been going back and forth with the idea of adding a couple more tangs to my main display.. but adding new fish when there’s already equilibrium in the tank is always a scary prospect hahahahah Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Looking for a fat and healthy specimen, please send photos to 9six3six0sevenfour0 cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

looks like you have a pathogenic parasite outbreak in your tank. looks like either brook or velvet from this pic to me Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Lights malfunctioning thus no longer available for sale Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Aquascaping planning.. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

All taken. Cheers Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

it could be lack of oxygenation in the water. if their bodies look fine and not patchy/covered in a whitish film or spots, it’s probably just the oxygen level in your tank- assuming you’ve tested ammonia and that isn’t the issue either Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just mixed all 25kg of the Fauna Marin Sea-salt bucket into my 180G system filled with RO-DI overnight for around 10-12hours. An entire bucket yielded saltwater with a salinity of 1.024 specific gravity(32.5 ppt), perfect for my fowlr setup. Gonna wait half a full day for the water to settle cause I mixed everything directly in my tank with a much larger water volume than a mixing barrel. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app