nakazoru

Not yet Bro; Waited like an idiot for 3 days after light off... Only have their eyes looking at me laughing. Hopefully tonight... Errr, you have experience raising nemo?? I will be travelling next week, siao liao, though I prepared rotifer, but doubt my wife will able to maintain the water quality... Also I be on holiday end of the month for 2 weeks, another issue, can help?

Hi all; The story: While I was cleaning my tank yesterday, I found eggs on the stalk of the frogspawn which is already black rather than orange, thus I cannot predict when it is going to hatch. i also cannot tell which batch is it now since I away most of the time. So I may need help: 1. Live rotifier (Near Toa Payoh, hopefully can pick up after 11pm tonight, as I have a wedding dinner to attend), sooorry how long can I keep the live rotifier... 2. I cannot see eyes but eggs are blackish rather than orange. 3. I will need to house in a beta, but will they escape from there? Other wise I house in QT but temperature is 30deg... Thanks all.

It is probably because of evaporation, as one may topup or drip too little...

Rain water.. Not impossible but also high risk. If our sky has CO2 still not too bad as we only get carbonic aicd which is in ways simliar to our soda drinks... Our dear country has stringent laws for industrial polution. But our neighbours does not do similar regulation. I know because I was there in their industrial plants. We do get SO3, odour gas into the atmosphere not too far away maybe 300km away or even nearer. Ever think it is CO2 that deplete our ozone? Think again.

Feel Cheated? Why should you? 285 is really not that expensive to warrant it cheating. I was at Aquarama 2007 too, and I bet those chinese national sales person did not mention anything about compressor or titanium coil. On the duration where the chiller to chill from 31 to 26 for your 80l tank, it is estimated on a graph in the manual. My guess will be 45mins to 1 hrs.

Haha; Most people connect in series. If one LED burn out, whole series will be out. With the star MCPCB you can solder it back on. The electrical on LED is really quite simple. Also the star MCPCB are all screw on to the heatsink. Unlike PFO, you need to change their whole LED stripe... 5LED stripe, costly...

While I do not really understand the UV effect on SPS as I do not keep any. I follow the PFO thread/review on RC closely. Reports on better coral growth is obvious. My choice on LEDs is that it is greener on power consumption, without harming corals.

wow Acriche is new is interesting to see that it take AC and generate some 320lm with the 8W LED. Sorry first time look at seoul's LED. I did also look at CREE, Osram. AND found constraint with these higher lux LED as below: (I believe PFO also consider these when choose to use luxeon) 1. No compatible Lens to converge the 120 deg radiated lights for aquarium application. Thus unable to penetrate thru water. 2. These non-luxeon does not have blue or green LEDs to support the needs of our marine aquarium. If fresh planters, I think can use. 3. For the AC LED, it will not be controllable. Sorry, maybe I start my DIY thread soon, rather than loh soh again. Cheers

Wah Bro gny; Seems u did some good investigation with the LEDs. To tell you, Seoul Semiconductor LEDs are cheaper but with some limitation as 1. Lower Lumux/watt and less than what luxeon offer with the K2. Lower power is still ok but lacks penetration. 2. Choice of colors are limited for higher power 5W leds, same happens for osram. Also for LED, PAR is higher using blue LEDs. PFO unit cost 800++USD 1 ft unit and sell at reefdepot, my guess is it works out to 1200-1300SGD I not selling a unit but just 25 pcs K2 star and Lens. By the way, LEDs runs 100,000hrs lifespan, at 0 UV radiation and no heat at light source. Spectral drift minimal compared only by some 25% after 10 years. So if we use 12 hours a day, LED last us 22 years... Haha, theorically speaking. Svaing on chilling too...

Hi boss. There is a DIYer LED in the sgreef in the tank thread, great thread which I follow. I also diying but caught up by work so I delay it a while. The problem with DIY is that parts I order comes by batch, thus time pass slowly. My plan is LED: 1. K2 LED fixture 2. Hardware/wiring for LED 3. Programming with a micro-Processor with sunrise/set Will start a thread when time allow, maybe while I'm away oversea. Spent some 2-3K just on parts alone... Price to pay juz for prototyping my design. Cheers

Hehe.. I did go to Aquarama, but did not meet the boss... If you wana meet me, will be my honor.

Items as listed below: 1. 12 pcs LXK2-PW14-V00 - White Luxeon K2 Star 2. 13 pcs LXK2-PB14-Q00 - Blue Luxeon K2 Star 3. 25 pcs FHS-HWB1-LLK2-H - 45deg Fraen Wide Beam Lens With Holder Selling S$550. Cheers PS. After 6 June. I on business until then from tomorrow.

Hi Guys; Didn't expect to revisit the review after some 8 mths of using this chiller. While the chiller is still running fine, I finally did a maintenance of the air filter and clean up the dust within the chiller. What I discovered was that the compressor was not Mitshibushi made but a HuaYi compressor from China. Also I did not really see titanium coil but copper like coil at compressor and radiator fin. Cannot be certain if the titanium coil is in the evaporator... I re-read the instruction manual but found no mention of Mitshibushi compressor or titanium coil. Look up Hailea web also did not mention. While I'm still please with the chiller, potential buyer/owner should take note of the two mis-information. Cheers

Buffer is to raise KH or PH more gently than the booster as claim by the product. It is like a off the shelve idiot proof addition to your tank. In actual fact, it will probably never get it to the right KH/PH if you ever do as per the instruction be it KH or PH, unless you measure it and devise a routine of your own.

Away? Still around, but notting happening since my tank is overcrowded... Counting down to a bigger tank... 8 months...

Hmmm; Looks better compare to previous lights. yo, coffee in near future?

Bro Drato11; Yep, u did warn me at ur place, vividly I remember. And no, I'm lucky enough not being victimised, since I'm quite money concious when I enquire abt US zoa early this year, didn't bother even with viewing. Anything more than 50 bucks, you need to ask question. You can see money-minded cronies poping up every now and then, but seriously speaking it is really limited to that few. Be warned and nothing to be alarmed about. Warning newbies of potiential thread is important, we also need to highlight that most reefers here are more than willing to share knowledge.

Just be ready for some good damages... It is better to list the equipment and tank configuration before heading down for the LFS, be it AM or Jireh. I meant things like: 1. 4 ft tank with sump? 2. Calcium reactor? 3. Fluidize reactor? 4. Skimmer? 5. Lightings - what type, depending if keeping corals? 6. Chiller if keeping corals? With that in mind, work out a budget for each item, different brand has different price. Welcome.

Hey Bro; How is life? It should be 2 buy & sell businessman, 1 buy & sell conman.

Neber tried but it is just there as hitchhiker. They need lots of long green algae to munch on and appears very green with the color of the algae. They eats so much of my turtle weeds that it goes botak... after the slug goes skinny and will perish...

1. Your tank size should add 1 full spoon for 48 hrs. If trace of cyano@#$@#@ is there do another spoon for another 48 hrs to kill them all. 2. Skimmer must be off for those period, otherwise it will spill the skimmer. 3. Canister no need to off but must remove carbon media. 4. Water change 30% and add carbon media for 1-2 weeks. On the skimmer. Source of cyanobacteria is that they are always in the ocean. But excess nutrients accelerate their growth. Control your feeding/maintenence is a good start. Good Luck

I use a table lamp with 24W phillip cool day light tornado for my nano cube. The color is only 6500K. That is the best I managed. Cheers. If you need the table lamp contacts, I will send u via PM upon request.

Oh well; It is raining and typhoon and moonsoon season. I at surabaya now and the LFS also like this. They say high wave and low visibility thus no shipment. So no gems and price is slightly higher here. Since Spore high demand, thus higher price...

Now I see how your acrylic block comes in, as a water channel. Then I must say it is gona work like a beauty, even better than the solaris fan cooling. I guess you will have a mini radiator hanging somewhere. The liquid gasket is the same as those high thermal for engine block right, water tight cooling. Can even use CPU coolant. Cool stuff. Salute you

Hi Alex; Thanks for the explanation. 1. You are right, you can easily trim down even with a simple trim pot. Even better a controllable driver. 2. For the cooling, I can see the LED sits on the cooper plate, which is great as copper is best material for heat transfer. If the acrylic holds the water, would the acrylic not becomes a insulation between the copper plate and the water? This is my concern in this case since acrylic has a low thermal coefficient. 3. Wow, if u are looking at a PLC, my guess is that it will be a dimmable configuration. I only hope you are not thinking of multiple dimmable configuration, which might make the lights very bullky and costly. I considering may be to buy a K2, lens and holder as reference. You think is okay with u? Can PM me the price if u are willing.