nakazoru

Already completed cycle for a while. Rockscape a little, maybe some 70-80%, not fully satisfied. Add a PBT sometimes back but got killed by the WM... Did a DIY LED halfway. Did a DIT controller halfway and the controller chip died. Ordering a new one. In the mean time I'm at a island in pacific ocean for two months. So you tell me how to finish my tank...

Jealous that you can always chiong LFS to get nice stuff. My tank hardly even complete yet since setup.

Bro. Where u buy the snail, like a mantle ray in a shell... Simon

No if the pods is not visible, unless they eats pellets

Upz

Upz

Hi all; Selling above. Total 4 of them. 2 set has been used for only 1 week, I say 99.9% like new and I threw away the box. 2 set are still in box, and never touch water. Take all for SGD120. A wooping ~SGD40 off. Details here My preference is to sell to reefer that can take all 4. Otherwise will be as: 1. Used for 1 week x 2 - SGD32 2. NIB x 2 - SGD35 Any bros/sis can share and will get the better saving. But I will only deal with one person. Cheers

Hi William; Sorry did not see your post, I have since upgrade from a 30G to 180G recently. Did only once on the new tank, I have stop measuring PO4 since the last kit expired. My indication to treat the water is looking at the sunp take for indication of excessive nurtients. Remembering FeSO4 remove more than PO4 so I do it regularly then. Since now I have a bigger, 5 times bigger, so I have only 6 fishes and corals, so it is very small bioload, so no outburst of algae yet. Any bad infuence on the LS/coral using FeSO4, none is my answer, if dose gradually. Cheers Sorry, late again, did not know I have a fan from Bangkok, haha. I suggest that you use 4-6 teaspoon rather than 25... As your PO4 will only need 4 times of the FeSO4 to remove, theoritcally. Finish the treatment then measure, dose again if require. Update on the PO4 reading if you can. Cheers

Remembered loooong time ago that this happens to my gonio, happens a once in a while. It normally happens when there is a sudden change of environment like lights on/off but mostly lights off. I hope this assumption is correct, for I can't specks for the corals. Read it some where that it is also a way to absorb water and flushes its bodily junk. detox... but if it is always detox-ing then it may not be too good on a long run.

Didn't I saw some eagle eyes... in your tank? Sorry I did not see the swop thread, otherwise i can pass to you. Simon

Sorry guys. Reserved again.

Relist 1. Red sea pro skimmer - SGD68; Did not even get to meet the fighter pilot...

I have one that is Tom Aquatics Aquatic Gardener, the holder is smaller. But bear in mind tong like this cannot take heavy load. No metal parts except the stainless steel cutter. Cheers

Hi Zappy Kiwi; It is not going to be cheaper and easier if we buy a NC for the upper float switch and NO for the lower switch. All connected to the AC mains. If electrical leak is a concern, buy a earth probe and ELCB of our house will provide safety...

Is it the HC1000?? Was thinking of upgrade to this 1 HP, How loud har?

Clean the intake filter which is easy on our part. Even the whole chiller is easy to take apart and put back without much confusion. I flush with water at the radiator (sound like a car...) and still work like a breeze. Chemical wash, I guess get the chiller guy to do better as they will have the right chemical. My temp sensor is faulty after 2 years. Buy a external controller if budget allows, even a good used ones is good.

Dun tink it will get a extremely high volume for the price to drop significantly since LED not common and ex now. Also not many ppl will know how to DIY.

PM You

Hmmm; Your multimeter can measure temp... Wonder why mine cannot. Hope to see your tank shot if possible. Cheers

Is it not all "buy low, sell high" thing been around for centuries, something we call "Trading"? That is also a legitimate business as far as I'm concern. It is the lies and deception behind each sales that causes uproar....

Bro Barra; I afraid that the LED w/o lens may not be penetrative for a 3ft depth. I use a 45deg lens to converge the LED with efficiency of 89% efficiency as per specs. Without lens, I remembered it to be >120deg or more, cannot remember. But then it hard to say, until corals are complaining, it still just might work since SPS are near the top. Update me on the health of the corals. The Alum heatsink plate you using, are they finned? The temperature you obtain of 45deg is very good, but it is the air temp near heatsink or the surface temp of Alum? Did you use fan to force convention the heatsink? Sorry to ask so much, as I will be putting my prototype to real life this weekend... Lots of drilling and soldering..

Anemone and tube worm is open, so it should not be extremely unhealthy, pics too small. Brown algae call diatom...

B4

I understood that the buckpuck driver doesn't come cheap, but of a cheapest range available. Good choice none the less. However, I'm surprise that you not using lens for the blue, as blue LED provide the main spectrum for the corals' health. But then I do not know the depth of your tank you are illuminating, so may I ask how deep is your tank? For me I more corcern with the heat dissipation on the heatsink for now. Hope it will work out.

Wah; cut throat price again. Add in the lens that comes abt 13-14SGD. Still must counter in the Heatsink and drivers. Are you buying the standard bucks drivers or using just normal regulated NPN transistor to drives these guys?