nakazoru

It should not be trip, but fickle.... Most of the time it is the ballast.... Off the MH and monitor... See for one day and see if it happens again.... No light will not kill the coral.

Hi Bro; You should have taken leave from work... No need to rinse anything. Run additional canister with more Carbon. Perform 20% water change twice a day. Rinse carbon and sponge after every change. Test Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite... If still high, repeat for the 2rd day. Discard carbon after it becomes normal. I survive a near crash the last time, I did this and I suffered no casualty. If you dun have additional canister, buy one. It will be cheaper than to kill LS or water change... good luck.

Bro Bohejm; Firstly those are additive, not medicine. These additives are to replemish the depleted ions in tanks. Important additive are: 1. Part A & B to for Calcium and KH together with some trace elements which you are using. This is a definite for hard corals / clams where they need calcium for growth 2. Magnesium to aid the percipitation of calcium. 3. Color booster is actually iodine if I'm not wrong and I will say it is optional as coral's color dun seems to depends on that. More for fishes and inverts. You got the necessary additive, but do look at kalkwasser to maintain the Calcium and KH.

Blue tang is a quite a ich magnet. Like bro xersion, infant blue tang has weaker immune system so do take note. While blue tang is prone to ich, do note that regardless of size, they do not do well/eat well if they find the enviroment is not suitable. While your water parameters are above average, they will still perish. My general guideline is that I dun buy tangs if I experience death of fish. Introduce tangs only when say you have no death for 1 month or so. Cheers

GSP...

I place it at the return compartment. It indicates the temperature of flow of my tank which is also the last place where the chiller will chill the tank.

You need to have some kinda of rotary wheel like dremel. Cut at an angle downward the skeleton of the polyps. Add a little SW once a while to prevent heating. Repeat all round until the whole polyps comes off with the skeleton. Take another LR preferable flat. Grind a shallow hole that the polyps can sit in. Glue then together. After a while it will spread.

Yes your clam is gaping. But does not look bad enuf to kill it. Most clam gap when first introduce to new tank, which is a sign of stress. Given one or two weeks, it will shut up...

You can always take it out and use a cutter and cut the tube worm out. If it is so deeply encrust, which I doubt, you may use a dremel like cutter to reach it. Or use a pointed screw driver and poke at it. Anyway, with the tube worm, it is not hurting the prata but just look out of symetric...

I'm a long time student some 8 years ago. So I dun qualify. But love to have your jerry can x 2. If you dun mind, can consider selling me?

Hehe Bro Reddevil; Bo pianz, triangle corner cannot have too many pattern of scaping also only 30G main tank... Cannot be fanciful. Waiting.... Saving... 5 footer...

Wah... So nice... Got nice LFS street at Mongkok...

The Eagle eyes? You got an eye for nice zoo. That is one of the most after zoo...

Hi all, Last pix for the month or the last job I done for my tank for this month. Go beijing liao. See can take picture of beijing LFS or not... Cheers New entry... Full Moon light... Using Sim Lim square blue LED connect to 12V DC transformer. Looks errie? My wife love it. Say... very calming..

Bro WaNer; It is prefered to use Calcium and Carbonate hardness of the same brand to avoid the problem of ions imbalance. Now that u have solve the problem, you still need to monitor a pattern of not causing the imbalance. I ran into this problem bcos of different brand and I stupidly follow the different set of dosing instruction as per the bottle not knowing that concentration may be different.

Browning only meant that algae is growing. Dose kalkwaser will bring coralline algae back.

Yo Bro Jervis; Dun do that too often otherwise you probably make all wine lovers hate you... Respect the wine glass okay.

Why dun you ask a tank maker to see if it is possible to repair. Anyway they are the pros. If done by them, the will clean the old silicon, prime it with acetone or alcohol or something. All the brace are last to silicon to the tank, so I abit confused with pressure to 4 side of tank? Good thing u remove part of the water.

Yo Shawn; Looks a hybrid between zoo and blasto... Neber see b4. Where u buy har?

Common Algae: 1. Diatom - Common to new tank - wait it out loh, snail, algae bleenie etc... 2. Green Algae - No choice, credit swap... 3. Hair Algae - go look for tang 4. Cyano - Not algae but bacteria, buy red slime removal - it works 5. Dino - God help you.... All algae can be control by rowaphos etc. Control your feeding... Good skimmer helps.... DI Water Change helps...Discipline helps. Photoperiod... Good luck

Anyway, 1 pax 5 piece coral he can bring in without permit for those that is not listed in CITES. Zoa is okay. If he bring in more, then need papers. Risk a fine. Then I will say 5-10 bucks is not worth the risk. In that case, better wait for shipment loh. Everytime I want good zoa, difficult to find leh...

If you did a rescape, move its position. Especially change of lights and current, and slight change in position. It may bleach slowly. Stress... If you leave it alone, it may come back in 1 to 2 mth time, if it get use to it. I suggest juz leave it alone...

You guys must also cater in trafficking fees also rite...

Faint liao.... Because of price and the color.... I buy if some reefers pool share zoo... Like 1 rock frag to 4 then share the cost... Then we have many many different quality zoo...