Ranz

hi - i don't own a redsea series so i cannot advise whether if the system is good. the online review is good, but u should know you are buying a proven tank of a certain branding, so you will pay a bit of premium for it. normally most of us just go for customize tank with lfs which cost less. but i see your receipt it is written redsea max c series 250? i think c series is the older one, new design without hood is on the E series. pricing wise you can check out this post from a lfs.

hi - short answer: any light for your refugium will do. (6500k white light) having said that - some light are more effective than other. brstv did an investigation on refugium light some months back and you can check it below. which light suits you depends on your main purpose of having a refugium (nutrient export, pods population, ph control etc). if u want it to control no3/po4, then you need a very big refugium of at least 10% of your display tank. if you run a method that depends on the refugium (example Triton) then its best to invest in a good light. light is however only one factor in growing chaeto. the other is flow and supplement (iron). i suggest to go for a normal 6500k white light to start off, then monitor and understand how your chaeto is growing in the refugium before spending on the 200+ kessil h80 light.

the app is aquarimate. you test the parameter and then input the value into the app.

this is very informative! thanks for sharing so by right you should have to pay 60 dollars (minimum) for the CITE permits in order to bring in the lps and clams.

hi - for cycling tank there is no need to add cheato. purpose of cycling is to build up your beneficial bacteria colony to convert ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate. you will know you have the bacteria colony ready when you read ammonia and nitrite 0. adding chaeto doesn't help in this process, and might even die off since if ammonia still exists. or if there is not enough nitrate and po4 to sustain them. if you want your cycle process to be faster you can dose bacteria. else just be patient and wait. please don't do water change when cycling and then assume cycling is completed because you read ammonia is 0 after water change. patience is key.

id the clam? - yours should be a derasa clam. if you keeping clam it's good to read about the disease it could get, like clam gaping and pinched mantle. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/3/aafeature1

the pic looks not that clear but you can try to google yellowtail blenny and see if it fits your fish?

hahah no problem. i'm just guessing btw - madagascar is in africa, it is not near the US. so don't think he imported it from the US

i remember seeing it being sold by iwarna some months ago. here's the link. maybe he got it from here?

for PO4 - you should look for the ultra low range phosphorus hanna checker instead http://hannainst.com/hi736-phosphorus-ulr.html

you can continue with maintenance dose which is i think once every 2 weeks. also - you should investigate the reason behind having hair algae.

2x mp40wQD both reserved. pending collection thanks for the overwhelming response. sorry to those i couldn't reply in time.

hi - want to clear some equipments which have been kept in the storeroom for some time. interested please leave a pm. collect near Stadium MRT. ==== 1. 2x mp40wQD - just tested still in great working condition. @ sgd 280 each. 2. 3x AI Hydra HMS Mounting Arm Single (brand new) - initially bought for my hydras but in the end not used. retail at sgd139. selling @ sgd100 each. 3. Enductor FR45 biopellets reactor @ sgd 45 4. slim LED light. korean brand. 1.5ft extendable. i used it in my refugium to grow cheato. @ sgd 40

you can use a net to slowly fish it out.

yups Xenia.

ya cannot really see from the video but from your description look like aiptasia. aiptasia is an anemone and a pest so should be controlled.

you don't look new at all. nice tank! how old is your current tank now?

your params looks ok, lps can tolerate higher no3 and po4. another probability is to google brown jelly disease.

hmmm i don't think you can save it in your tank. maybe pass to another reefer with stable tank could recover. what are your tanks parameters?

hi - it depends on your aquascape and also what coral you are planning to keep. no 2 tanks are the same. so you need to observe if your coral is getting blown too much or are ok.

3rd is a majano anemone. better to remove the 3rd one.

hmmm ok. you can still use the rock if you want - just need to kill the aiptasia. you can try with Aiptasia-X and inject to the anemone for it to eat.

it is an aiptasia anemone. a pest. should kill/control it when you still can.

if you have an egg crate between the water and the light then it will block much of the light. not recommended