madmac

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They vary thru' the day... with higher readings at mid-day lighting, and drop during the nites. What time was the reading taken, and wat did you test with?

I'm going more to softies. I've always loved leathers, esp the non-brown types. The sway they do in water is very nice to look at. Most of them are photosynthetic and don't require manual feeding. Aside from the norm water changes, good flow and lighting, they are quite easy to care for.

Hv you toyed with the idea of using bivalves or gastropods.? They are cheap, easy to find, dno't need lighting and always very hungry.

one of the most cheapest and fastest way to remove water-soluble PO4 and NO3 is bacteria and phytoplankton(tiny plants). These tiny animals take up the nutrients as quickly at they are created, they grab it first even before it reaches your chaeto. You just have to find a way to harvest them out. .. to allow new ones to take their place, then harvest them out again. This cycle continues non-stop. Skimming wet allows for this as you remove bacteria flock and phytoplanton in the wet skimmate together with detritus. If your chaeto can grow, you already have more than what is needed. (which is not entirely a bad thing as some systems need more nutrients than others).

Funny, they were jus discussin this over in RC... see here what happened to SPS forum?. My two cents is... jus go where your interest takes you. Don't always follow others, don't feign for affection, don't forget your boundaries... there are lots more impt things in life that sea-life. If situation calls that its time to throw-in, then heaven's sake do so. The oceans and all its life does not owe it upon you for its survival. Jus a thought, over here going a-step-further doesn't mean going with the latest & the greatest... to go forward, it helps alot if you go 'backwards' first..

I like views like this. It draws me further in. Great scaping there. I can imagine, how beautiful it'll look with fuller SPS. ... I'm envious for the depth you have. Is that 2.5' deep? I think you can do with more flow too... JMO tho.

and even some more now.. Yehh, can finally do some acro hunting in next few weeks.

Hey. Thank you everyone! . I've decided to name that coral, jus for the fun of it, as the Manhunter acro, after Justice League superhero. see here : Screen Capture Still from the Justice League Unlimited Television series. Should be fair use Jervis, maybe its not so rare after all, but jus pretty. I'm sure the Thais have quite a couple of it, as do some others here... some don't like to show-off wat they have.

Jus a bump to note some re-rockwork for tomorrow... finally found some time for it.... and a FTS to mark occasion. Ill be raising the back right-side... for more rock space. Currently, I'm suffering from the nudies-attacking monties since my last photo taking session. There were clear marks left after the attacks, was only to slow to recognized them. I haven't added much in the last 3 months... besides, a monti in Jan from TinEng and a 1 for 2 frag exchange with Shar... Thnx bro . Aside from these, I couldn't resists buying a piece at a recent Iwarna shipment, 'bout 2-3 weeks ago. It was a reserved, then rejected, so got it on a rebound. This is wat it looks like. The coral was a little bleech at first, but colouring up nicely now. Still early days, tho.

most definitely not good. You dont' want any visible layer forming on ur water surface as it impedes the vital exchange of gasses... resulting in low pH and a lack of O2 in the nites. Hv u tried experimenting with a surface skimmer, pipe in line to ur skimmer.?

Thnx bro, the fish is doing ok.

go one step further... add a "time" or periodic factor to it... it makes more sense as since you are replacing loss kH, why not find out how much you lose within a certain period of time, that will need replacing.

thats no short cut your doing... by what u say, ur going thru' the whole testing process again... what the programmer/tester have already done for you. Pick the traditional method. The parameters are simple, you just need to supply 3 pieces of info: Enter ur tank volume, choose liters Enter ur tank current, choose dKH, Enter ur desired level you wish to have, and click on calculate.

Umm, it shouldn't be random at all.... not if they're all around the same rock area so it "passes" from one to another next to it. Up there you said, no water changes... it wasn't too long in-between, I hope.

base up is commonly attributed to phosphate wicking from the rock it is attached to. The coral stoney skeleton wicks up the PO4 leech out from the rocks. Sometimes the base shows a green tint, and sometimes not... most of these actually result in STN and not RTN though.

Did it start at the tip or from the bottom or somewhere the middle.? any pics. I lost one that began from purple to brown to STN from base up... gave up trying to find the reason for it. It was an isolated case. I'm guessing whatever it is, its in your water as its spreading fast. Probably toxins... maybe prudent to change out water, run new carbon, lower temps for the time being.

okie very nice piece... I'm not really big on equipment, but that one perk things up a bit. ... who's carrying it?

I lose 2.5 dKH each day. Every morning before dosing commences , tests have shown its at 7, the dosing bumps it to 9nish and it takes the whole day + nite to come down. The timer is set to come on at 5:30am. Jervis, what dosing pump is that you're using? I've been looking for one that is something like thsi : http://www.innovativeaquatics.com/ 2 channel capability with timer built in. Mine is really boring

very nice, iceman. Some questions pls. Who did the light racks for you? They're very nice. Do you know where to buy from? 2*250W? Is your tank in the kitchen? Have you tested for backflow, in the event of a powerout?

You need to know how much you lose to consumption each day... and jus match it. Ca on its own is not a problem. If you lose 30 ppm and you start at 450, then after 2 days, it comes down to 390 and the third day its 360.. nothing (wrong) happens still. Its the alk that you need to keep an eye on. If you lose 2.5 dkh/day, you can't keep doing nothing for very long. Schedule: Ca is drip added every alternate days. Alk is auto-dosed every morning.

Don't know how I cud hv forgotten abt that. Its was documented in many other places, tho.

Good point, Mansiz! Denitrification, is mostly wanted, however the process is more difficult to apply than simply understanding. Yes you most definitely need large rocks... think very large, like bigger than what ur two hands can handle easily and it cannot be too porous. The real difficulty IMO, with using LR for denitirifcation is the balance in keeping it "clean" and yet anerobic at the same time. If its clean, then you have clean water (the hallmark of every good tank) and very good flow around the rocks and there's lots O2, high pH, ; and conversely if its dirty, then very bad flow, low pH, and then things start to rot on the rocks, soon algae comes out, etc.... (things you don't want in a closed system reef tank) Thats why denitrification the process requires specialise equipment, with just the right amt of adjustment for flow, and feeding the bacteria, darkness, and patience... the entire process is quite inefficient. ie. you'll need a very large volumn set of apparatus to convert the quick nitrates produced. Most systems simply cannot cope and test still registers +ve NO3. This is jus my personal opionion, as I find it odd 'cause the entire process before it becomes the gaseous N2, it has to go thru to NO2(nitrite) first. If denitrification happens in your tank, than good for you... it is IMO, better to avoid the entire process... Nitrate(NO3) is very reactive and wanted by a great many 'things'. Even before macro algae, the first things to consume them is bacteria and micro algae(phytoplankton).

There's one 250W BLV 10000k MH in the centre with two T5s infront and 2 behind. No. No fragings for the moment.

some longer than the others. but most less than 2 yrs. Jervis, It wud be a treat.