Harlequinmania

Click through to see the images. Photo by James W. Fatherree, M.Sc. (as published in his December 2010 Advanced Aquarist article: "Crabs in the Marine Aquarium") Here is an uncommon video of a common blue-legged hermit crab in the act of changing shells. Don't blink ... the swap happens a little after the 1:00 mark in about one second. Hermit crabs do not build their own shells, so make sure to provide your hermit crabs additional shells for them to move into as they grow. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhyQT5Jua00 original thread: http://www.3reef.com/forums/show-off-your-fish-tanks/caught-my-crab-video-changing-shells-106823.html View the full article

Click through to see the images. Advanced Aquarist first reported on the new Kessil A150W last week. Atlantis Aquarium has now added two videos of this new compact LED pendant in action: From the looks of it, this new lighting system is very bright (for only 36 watts of power consumption) but has a relatively narrow range of coverage. This makes the A150W a good choice for smaller aquariums or as "spotlights" in larger aquariums. The color rendition (as with most good LED systems I've seen) is very impressive. Coral pigmentation really "pops." There are 2 more spectrum versions coming out for the A150W. View the full article

Click through to see the images. Advanced Aquarist first reported on the new Kessil A150W last week. Atlantis Aquarium has now added a video of this new compact LED pendant in action: From the looks of it, this new lighting system is very bright (for only 36 watts of power consumption) but has a relatively narrow range of coverage. This makes the A150W a good choice for smaller aquariums or as "spotlights" in larger aquariums. View the full article

Click through to see the images. Construction Begins on America’s Largest Coral Reef Research Center at Nova Southeastern University Coral reef ecosystem center only one in the nation HOLLYWOOD, Fla. —- Nova Southeastern University officially kicked off the construction of America’s largest coral reef research center by holding a groundbreaking ceremony on March 9 at its Oceanographic Center. The Center of Excellence for Coral Reef Ecosystems Science Research Facility Known as the Center of Excellence for Coral Reef Ecosystems Science Research Facility, the 86,000-square-foot building will cost $30 million. NSU is using a $15-million federal stimulus grant and its own matching funds to build the facility. NSU was among 12 universities out of 167 applying nationwide to receive the competitive and prestigious grant from the U.S. Department of Commerce’s National Institute of Standards and Technology. NSU was one of two universities that received the full amount of $15 million. Located at NSU’s Oceanographic Center, the coral reef research facility is expected to create 22 new academic jobs and 300 construction jobs, employ 50 graduate students, and preserve 22 existing academic jobs. It’s expected to open in January 2012. “I am thrilled that Nova Southeastern University has this opportunity to continue its leadership role in Florida’s and the nation’s science and research economy,” said NSU Chancellor Ray Ferrero, Jr., J.D. “This type of research infrastructure is urgently needed to support economic growth and environmental sustainability in our region.” Using the largest research grant in NSU’s history, the center will be the only research facility in the nation dedicated to coral reef ecosystem research, which are the reefs and their surrounding environment. It will have space for offices, laboratories that allow for research collaboration, training, and staging for fieldwork. The goal is to expand research by current and new faculty researchers, visiting scientists, post-doctoral fellows, and graduate students. “While much of the South Florida economy is stagnating, I proud that an exciting and unique development project is happening in Hollywood,” said Mayor Peter Bober of Hollywood, Florida. “The $30-million Center of Excellence will not only create jobs and bring a prominent research hub to the city, but it can also be a catalyst for future collaborations between the City and Nova Southeastern. We welcome NSU to Hollywood with open arms.” Media Contact: Ken Ma, NSU Office of Public Affairs 954-262-5408 (office), 954-830-4177 (cell), ken.ma@nova.edu source: http://nsunews.nova.edu/construction-begins-americas-largest-coral-reef-research-center-nova-southeastern-university/ View the full article

Scientists are exploring the molecules and tissues necessary for normal inner ear development in two different species that are model organisms for developmental biological studies: the African clawed frog and the zebrafish. View the full article

Click through to see the images. </h2><h2 style="text-align: center; "> Click here to view the full resolution wallpaper (1920x1200) right-click the photo and save the file on your computer. photo by James Wiseman View the full article

Click through to see the images. The Seattle Marine Aquarium Expo (SEA-MAX) will debut at the Seattle Center (home of the famous Space Needle) The Seattle Center's Exhibit Hall is at: 305 Harrison Street, Seattle, WA 98109 Strategically placed in the center of the largest city of the Pacific Northwest, SEAMAX is anticipated to reach hobbyists and businesses throughout the entire region. The Seattle area is conveniently surrounded by large metropolitan areas such as Portland OR, Vancouver BC and neighboring states of Idaho and Montana. The Seattle Center is a cultural park that hosts the site of the famous Space Needle, International Fountain, performances by internationally acclaimed theater, ballet, and opera companies. Seattle’s best hotels, shopping and restaurants are located just steps away in the Queen Anne neighborhood or accessed by a two-minute ride downtown on the iconic Seattle Center monorail. Admission Price: $25 for Adults, $20 for Seniors and Military w/I.D. and FREE for kids 12 & under! View the full article

Click through to see the images. There are males, then there are males! PIA is offering a trio of Golden Fairy Wrasses. Normally, C.rhomboidalis availability isn't newsworthy since they have been making their way into the aquarium trade with much more regularity then a decade ago (when they were ultra rare). However, this trio includes one of the most beautiful male Rhomboids I have seen in a few years. I can only imagine what this male does when it decides to perform a full-on courtship of the two females. View the full article

Click through to see the images. There are males, then there are males! PIA is offering a trio of Golden Fairy Wrasses. Normally, C.rhomboidalis availability isn't newsworthy since they have been making their way into the aquarium trade with much more regularity then a decade ago (when they were ultra rare). However, this trio includes one of the most beautiful male Rhomboids I have seen in a few years. I can only imagine what this male does when it decides to perform a full-on courtship of the two females. View the full article

Scientists have created a new tool to monitor coral reef vital signs. By accurately measuring their biological pulse, scientists can better assess how climate change and other ecological threats impact coral reef health worldwide. View the full article

Click through to see the images. photo from Scott Michael's Aquarium Fish: Deepwater Reef Fish Communities: Part 2: A Survey of Deep Reef Fishes Advanced Aquarist article, Sept 2005. The Spanish Flag is a deepwater Caribbean species so rare, only a few hobbyist have ever seen one in person. This species inhabits rocky reefs throughout the Caribbean at depths between 150 and 1200ft but rarely above 300 ft, making it extremely difficult to collect. Available no more than once a year, now is your chance to see one in person if you're in the New York/New Jersey area. The price? I've been informed Absolutely Fish is asking $2,000 for this specimen (about the expected price for G.hispanus). If it's any consolation, The Spanish Flag is reportedly a very hardy fish (like most groupers are). Video of The Spanish Flag at Absolutely Fish: View the full article

Click through to see the images. Dinoflagellates, aka Brown Slime "Algae" (they're really protists): the nasty, bubbly, brown snot ... and the bane of many aquarists. A year ago, my neighborhood transformer blew, leaving several blocks of homes - including mine - without power for the greater part of a day. At the time, I didn't have any form of backup power other than the 2 battery-powered air pumps I relied on to keep my corals and fish alive. The air pumps served this purpose well, but they couldn't generate enough flow and oxygenation to keep my sandbed healthy. Soon after, nutrient levels climbed alarmingly fast from the die-off in my substrate, and the first dinoflagellates began cropping up. Thus began my year-long struggle with the brown menace. Lesson #1: Install an automatic backup power system for your aquarium. Reefs are no small investments. They're also exceedingly delicate, so backup power systems are a no brainer (I obviously had no brains prior to learning from this mistake). I am confident if I had power for proper circulation during the power outage, I would not be writing about how I beat dinoflagellates. The Brown Slime Algae quickly grew to plague proportions. Literally EVERY inch of rock and my entire back glass was covered in thick, gooey slime. My snails were the first to die en masse. Dinoflagellates release several toxins, some of which snails are particularly susceptible to. Lesson #2: If you have a bad case of dinoflagellates, remove your snails. As snails die off, they release incredible amounts of nutrients, fueling more dinoflagellate growth. Lesson #2a: Deal with dinoflagellates as soon as they appear. Dinoflagellates kill. And as they kill, they "feed" on what they kill. It's a vicious, self-fueling cycle that progressively worsens if you don't deal with it. For the next year, I would blast my rock with powerheads to dislodge the Brown Slime Algae (catching them with nets and/or filter socks), only for them to return a few days later. I tried raising pH (8.4+) with kalkwasser. I increased my magnesium levels above 1500mg/l. I performed huge water changes. I tried going months without water changes in hopes of starving the dinoflagellates. I reduced my lighting schedule, going so far as to run only actinics (no halides) for 6 hours per day for 2 weeks straight. I ran GAC. I ran ferric oxide. None of this worked. I was at wit's end. So in early 2011, I planned a last ditch, multi-prong attack before giving up on my tank. Here is how I finally beat dinoflagellates: I maintained my pH above 8.4 with kalkwasser. Before I began my final assault, I knew dinoflagellates would release a lot of toxins into the water column if I was successful. Therefore, the first step was to run lots of high quality granular activated carbon (GAC) to remove as much of these toxins as possible My GAC of choice was Two Little Fishies' Hydrocarbon. After my GAC was in place, I tried manually removing as much dinoflagellates as I could. Next, I decided to do a 72 hour black-out. I left every light off for a full 3 days and covered the entire tank/canopy under a black tarp so no light could creep in. Make sure to aggressively run your protein skimmer (or use air pumps) during this time as oxygen levels can get dangerously low. I prepared 50 gallons of new saltwater (using RO/DI water, of course). After the 72 hour period, I removed the tarp and turned on my actinic lights. Most of the dinoflagellates was gone! I brushed off what remaining Brown Slime was clinging on to life and quickly began my water change, siphoning off any dinoflagellates I could find, in addition to siphoning my sand bed. I attempted to remove as much decaying matter I could. A 100 micron filter sock was installed in my sump to catch fine particulates. I prepared another 50 gallon saltwater mix and performed another water change. At this point, there was no visible dinoflagellates left to extract, and I did a second siphoning of my sandbed. For a week after the water change, I ran only actinics (full 12+ hour day). Halides were left off. After the dinoflagellates were gone, my fish perked up with increased appetite. However, I resisted their pleas for food and fed them conservatively to keep nutrient levels low. For two weeks after the second water change, I added hydrogen peroxide (3% h202 solution) at a rate of 1ml per 10 gallon per day. I can't say for sure this step helped keep dinoflagellates from coming back, but dinoflagellates have yet to return. The intent is to sterilize the water column. I suspect ozone or UV sterilizers would serve the same purpose. In light of this month's Bacterial Counts article by Dr. Feldman, I also plan to begin dosing vodka. Lesson #3: You can't beat dinoflagellates half-heartedly. Reduced lights did not work. Only total black-out for 3 full days did the trick. Individual steps did not suffice as a stand-alone solution; There is no magic bullet. Plan a multi-prong attack, performed simultaneously or consecutively to keep the dinoflagellates weakened and unable to mount a comeback. It looks like I won't have to tear down my reef after all! I hope my experience can help some aquarists beat dinoflagellates as well. View the full article

An international team of researchers reports the first data on how beaked whales respond to naval sonar exercises. Their results suggest that sonar indeed affects the behavior and movement of whales. View the full article

Bursts of intense global warming that have lasted tens of thousands of years have taken place more frequently throughout Earth's history than previously believe, according to new evidence. View the full article

A video of a modern shellfish by paleontologists suggests a way to test theories about the behavior of fossilized specimens. View the full article

Shipped to Ireland as a slave, it must have been a cold, hungry journey for Patrick. But through her researches, an Irish food expert has been able to recreate the diet available in 5th century Ireland to a young saint-in-the-making. View the full article

Click through to see the images. In 2009, the Haereticus Enviromental Lab and Zoological Society of London, began plans for a cyrogenic genetic "seed" bank for corals. Termed the "Coral Ark" at the London Zoo, researchers began work on a freezing Caribbean corals - deemed the most imminently threatened habitat. In 2010, Smithsonian researcher Mary Hagedorn began similar cryogenesis work in Hawaii, this time focused on Pacific corals such as Montipora capitata and Fungia scutaria. Now in 2011, the Taronga Conservation Society of Australia plans its own cryogenic coral bank. Frozen embryos (collected during spawning events around the Pacific) will be stored at the Taronga Zoo in Sydney, Australia. Advertisement: Story continues below Rebecca Spindler (Taronga Zoo's Manager of Research and Conservation): ''This is really an insurance program to take the coral out of an uncertain situation and put it in a place that is 100 per cent safe for a very long time. 'When you store organic material at minus 296 degrees [Fahrenheit] it can stay at that point forever because matter simply cannot break down.'' She continues: "What we need to be able to do is be in a position to bring back those ecosystems that die immediately - this is about getting the tools and the training now so we don't have to do it in haste late." As is usually the case with new and ambitious research ideas, we wait (and hope) to see if this effort can secure sufficient funding and sponsors. source: http://www.smh.com.au/environment/earth-hour/coral-reef-cryogenic-plan-gets-under-way-20110314-1buky.html View the full article

A new emergency increase to the butterfish fishing limit will enable squid fishermen off the northeast, who often catch butterfish unintentionally while fishing for squid, to continue working, while still protecting the butterfish stock. View the full article

My RBTA is splitting again and infesting my tank, have to sell some away to make space. Below is the approx size of it when it fully open with pics . RBTA A - Size 8 cm - $ 40.00 No photo available for B but is almost the same size as A. RTBA B - Size : 7 Cm - $ 40.00 RBTA C - Size : 4 cm - $ 30.00 RBTA D - Size 3 cm - $ 20.00 Priority and Discount will be given to those who can take more and one . Viewing and collection in CCK ave 3. thanks for viewing.

Click through to see the images. As best as I can tell, for as long as tridacnids have been put in aquariums there has been much debate about how much light is needed to keep them healthy. I've heard all sorts of ideas here and there, and have even seen specific PAR values recommended for each species. However, most of what I've heard is bad advice, which is a result of the general lack of understanding of tridacnid biology. So, I'll try to straighten things out this month, and save the lives of some clams. A beautiful batch of T. derasa, the least demanding of the tridacnid clams available to hobbyists. Tridacnids are complicated To start, one of the biggest problems is the false notion that if various corals can be kept healthy under a given lighting system that tridacnids can be kept healthy under it, too. It's easy enough to see why many people would think this, but tridacnids are not corals. Corals are very simple animals, and they don't really do too much when you think about it. They just sit there and soak up the sun, they don't move around, and they use very few calories from day to day to stay alive. Tridacnids, on the other hand, are actually very complicated animals with mouths, stomachs, intestines, kidneys, gonads, a beating heart, big gills, etc. They also use millions of tiny cilia to draw water into their bodies non-stop. Yes, they just sit around most of the time, but there's a heck of a lot more going on inside that shell than you might think. So, it takes a lot more calories to keep one alive. Both can get some of their calories by eating plankton and such, but the vast majority of their needs are covered via the photosynthesis carried out by their complements of zooxanthellae. So, they both require light, and tridacnids generally need a lot more than corals. Therefore, you should never assume that good coral growth would equate to good clam growth under the same lighting. More on this in a minute, though. Tridacnid species aren't all the same Next, I'll point out that some tridacnid species can live at greater depths than others, and can survive with less light than others. Tridacna crocea, Hippopus hippopus, and H. porcellanus aren't found at depths greater than about 20 feet, and I don't think I've ever seen a single T. crocea living deeper than about ten. However, T. maxima and T. squamosa can be found at more than twice this depth, living down to around 50 feet, and T. gigas can be found even deeper, at around 65 feet. Then there's T. derasa, which can be found all the way down to around 80 feet, and the deepest-living species, T. tevoroa, which can be found down to a about 110 feet (but isn't offered in the hobby). This could be due to some structural differences between the various species, differences in their metabolism, or they may preferentially carry different strains of zooxanthellae, or all of the above, or something entirely different. Here's a graph showing each species' maximum reported depth of occurrence in meters. Regardless, intensity at the surface on a bright day in the tropics is around 2,500 µE/m2/s, but at 3 feet below the surface, depending on water clarity, light intensity is already reduced by about 15%, and by 110 feet it has dropped by about 94%. This means intensity drops to about 2,125 at just 3 feet and all the way down to about 150 by 110 feet, and that's in clear oceanic waters on a clear day. So, the deepest living tridacnid has never been found where intensity is lower than about 150 µE/m2/s, and all the rest live in waters where the intensity is higher. By comparison, I've taken light readings in a couple of relatively dim reef aquariums lit with fluorescent bulbs and found that there are many stony corals that can live and grow under less light than this. Some examples are (in µE/m2/s): Coral and Light Measurements Coral Species µE/m2/s Pachyseris rugosa110Montipora capitata110Montipora spongodes110Pocillopora sp.107Montipora sp.100Monitpora digitata95Acropora cervicornis80Montastrea sp.80Acropora millepora79Scolymia sp.70Turbinaria peltata64Turbinaria reniformis58Fungia sp.54Euphyllia cristata52Trachyphyllia geoffroyi40Caulastrea furcata32Again, all of these were healthy and growing, so it should be clear that you could have a reef aquarium where the light intensity is less than 150 µE/m2/s and still have lots of growing corals, while not having enough light to keep any species of tridacnid healthy. Anyway, I can tell you for sure that trying to get a T. crocea to live on the sparse light a T. derasa might receive at 80 feet just isn't going to work. Likewise, T. derasa can't live side by side with T. tevoroa at 110 feet. So, how much light is needed depends a lot on which species of tridacnid is being considered. Individual tridacnids of each species aren't all the same, either In addition to these species-level differences, there's also variability between individuals. There are countless subtle genetic differences that can make one clam more fit than another under the same conditions, even if they are the same species. Individuals may be carrying different strains of zooxanthellae, too. So, all of the members of a given species can't necessarily adapt to the same minimum light intensity, either. Sibling clams can grow at different rates and grow to different sizes, etc. under the same environmental conditions due to genetic differences, and I'm certain that some clams have varying abilities to deal with more or less light, too. Here's a good example of how genetically diverse clams of the same species can be. These three T. croceaclams came from the same parents at the same time and have lived right next to each other since being placed in this outdoor tank. Notice the big one is about twice the size of the small one. For example, I've seen areas where there are hundreds of T. maxima within a few feet of the surface in an area of sloping reef, but their numbers dropped off drastically within the next 20 feet depth, and almost none were living within the last 20 feet of their maximum reported depth. Actually, I'm pretty sure I've never come across one any deeper than about 35 feet. The same pattern of distribution is generally seen with the other species, too. Many individuals in shallower, brighter waters, with abundance dropping steeply as the depth approaches their reported maximum depth of occurrence. Still, the salinity and temperature are essentially the same across these depths, and larval clams are at the mercy of waves and currents for several days, which can scatter them all over the place. This means that while the larvae are spread across a reef and nearby waters, the ones that settle in shallow waters are apparently more likely to survive while those that settle into deeper waters are not. So, it would seem that some individuals, for some reason(s), are better able to tolerate lower illumination than others, and go on to survive where others can't. They're the tough ones. Further discussion and my recommendations With this in mind, you should be able to see that there's no way to come up with a single number that would be the exact minimum amount of light that a species of clam can live under, because one clam's need for light is not necessarily the same as another clam's, even if they're the same species. Basically, the idea of asking for a specific lighting number would be like asking how many calories a day a Cocker Spaniel needs to survive without knowing its age, size, metabolic rate, etc. This is very important to remember, as you will always want to provide at least enough light to keep any clam of a given species alive, not the minimum that you think an individual of the species could possibly live under. Of course, there are literally hundreds of bulbs and possible combinations of bulbs that can be used over reef aquariums, and they can get dimmer with age, as well. So, I obviously won't be covering every possibility below, but will give some conservative recommendations based on personal experiences and the advice of numerous other experienced aquarists. To start, I'll say that all available species of tridacnids can and have been successfully kept under fluorescent lighting systems using high-output bulbs with good reflectors and/or metal halide bulbs. So, it is certainly possible to provide what they need through the use of commonly-offered lighting systems. What about LEDs? Well, I've seen a lot of new LED fixtures over the last few years, and some of them are bright enough to put your eyes out, while many others aren't very bright at all. So, I can't say much about how well they may work with tridacnids. If you want to try, I suggest using an LED fixture with an intensity that's comparable to a metal halide fixture, and then look for shell growth. Still, in the case of T. crocea, which is apparently the most light-hungry species of the bunch, fluorescent lighting will only suffice in very shallow tanks, or if a specimen is placed very near the water's surface in a deeper tank. I would highly recommend squeezing as many bulbs into the canopy/fixture as possible at that, and then mount the bulbs so that they are as close to the water as possible, and then place the specimen within a foot of the surface, preferably less. Again, some individuals (the "tough" ones) may be able to get by at times with less light, or further down in deeper tanks, but I implore you to not take chances. So, I have to say that metal halide lighting is really the way to go for this species. By the way, you can't have too much light, as long as a specimen is given plenty of time to adapt to a possible increase over what it's used to. All species available can be found in very shallow waters around reefs and have been raised on farms in very shallow outdoor tanks (like these T. crocea) without being over-illuminated, and our lights don't come close to the brightness of the tropic sun in three feet of water. Moving along, H. hippopus and H. porcellanus are the other shallowest-living species, and I say give them as much light as you would give a T. crocea. Again, several high-output fluorescents will probably suffice over small tanks, but metal halide lighting is still preferred, and is required for deeper tanks. T. maxima can live at over twice the depth that these other three can, and should be able to get by with much less light. So, many individuals can be kept under fluorescent systems, even if they're on the bottom of shallow to medium size tanks, as long as there are plenty of bulbs in use. But, they're far more abundant in shallow waters, and much less so at the deeper end of their range, so I still say you should play it safe and go with metal halides, or at least place specimens closer to the bulbs in medium to large size tanks. T. squamosa can live at about the same depth as T. maxima, but from what I've seen, they don't drop of in numbers with depth to the degree that the other species do. Thus, they seem to be generally better at living under reduced light than T. maxima is, despite the fact that both of these species have the same reported maximum depth of occurrence. This observation has been backed up by my experiences with them in aquariums too, as they've categorically been more tolerant of lower light/greater depth in tanks. Thus, I think it's safe to say that T. squamosa can typically be kept under fluorescent lighting at the bottom of both small and medium size tanks without worry (again, as long as there are several bulbs with reflectors). But, I still say get metal halides for deeper tanks. T. gigas, on the other hand, is very uncommon near its maximum reported depth, so I'd treat them the same as T. squamosa, even though they have been found many feet deeper. Fluorescents will do in small to medium size tanks, but metal halides should be used for deeper ones. Note that these are giants though, and it's probably best that you don't bother trying to keep a T. gigas in a relatively small tank anyway. So, I say keep a T. gigas in a big tank with metal halides, unless you're absolutely sure that you'll be getting a bigger tank in the (near) future, or can find your oversized clam a new home somewhere else. Lastly, there's T. derasa, the deepest living species we can get. T. derasa tends to be especially hardy and while using several fluorescent bulbs and reflectors over small to medium tanks is all that is needed, this is the one species that I say can often be kept under fluorescent lights even if they are on the bottom of deeper aquariums. Not always though, as I had one in my 125 gallon tank for a few years that immediately stopped growing after I switched from three 175w metal halides and two 165 V.H.O. fluorescents to 14 three-foot T-5 bulbs with reflectors (seven bulbs over each half of the tank). Even after a few weeks it still didn't resume its growth, and I had to remove it. So, I still say use metal halides if at all possible, just to be sure. Hard to believe that despite the continued coral growth, this 14-bulb T-5 fixture wasn't bright enough to keep my T. derasa healthy after it had been fine under metal halides for about three years. Speaking of growth, watching for it is the key to figuring out if you really have enough lights. If your water quality is up to par, and a clam is free of disease, it should add on new shell material if it's getting enough light. So look for new, white material at the rim of the shell. If there's no growth, then the lights are probably too dim. This is important to remember because tridacnids can take months to slowly starve to death, and everything can look fine right up to that point. If they're slowly starving, they won't be doing any growing, though. Shell growth is a good indicator of health. If water quality and disease aren't issues, there should be some growth if the lights are bright enough. It's seen as the band, thick or thin, of light material at the shell's rim. To summarize, it is impossible to give a single number recommendation when it comes to tridacnids' lighting requirements, even for a particular species. Each clam is genetically different, and some members of a given species will need more light than others. There is no way to determine this by looking at them though, so to be safe you need to provide enough light to keep any member of the species alive, and the best way to do this is to use intense metal halide lighting, or a fluorescent lighting system that includes quality reflectors and as many bulbs as will fit over the tank. If you're not sure if your lights are bright enough, always look for shell growth, and take action if there isn't any. And don't forget, this and many other subjects are covered in great detail in Giant Clams in the Sea and the Aquarium, so grab a copy if you want to do some further reading on the topic. View the full article

Click through to see the images. The research is very preliminary and up to this point is based on only three whales, but researchers Luke Rendell, Jonathan Gordon, Hal Whitehead, Shane Gero, and others who have been working with whale auditory research believe that the data is "very suggestive" that this type of communication is taking place during whale click sequence (or "coda") communications. In recent work with these sperm whales, the group found a unique 5R coda identifier (series of 5 clicks) that all sperm whales broadcast world-wide -- normally at the beginning of a click sequence. When analyzed with a particular sound analysis technique, however, a statistically significant variance in click timing was observed for each individual whale for this 5R coda. According to the Wired article: "Rendell stressed that much more research is needed to be sure of 5R’s function.'We could have just observed a freak occurrence,' he said. Future research will involve more recordings. 'This is just the first glimpse of what might be going on.'" (via Wired and Animal Behavior) View the full article

Click through to see the images. Kessil's official press release: Richmond, CA—Continually finding new ways to apply Dense Matrix LEDâ„¢ technology, Kessil is proud to present the new A150W LED aquarium light. With its innovative design and high quality, radiant light, it uses an advanced LED platform to offer light for aquariums, expanding Kessil’s market reach to beyond the horticulture industry. Using the same reliable, high power core technology of other Kessil products, A150W emulates a point source that is intensely bright and able to reach to the bottom of the tank. It also provides the highly sought after shimmer effects of a metal halide without the excess power consumption and heat. The three specially created spectrums of A150W bring out the beauty of blue water and vivid colors of coral. The SKY BLUE model spectrum emits light similar to a 10000 K light, allowing water to sparkle while providing coral with optimized wavelengths. The OCEAN BLUE model’s unique mix of wavelengths closely resembles a 15000 K light, producing a natural looking light for a brighter tank. Finally, the DEEP OCEAN BLUE model's special blend of wavelengths simulates a 20000 K light for a deep blue color. The OCEAN BLUE is available now in online and retail stores. The SKY BLUE and DEEP OCEAN BLUE models will be available in May. For more information on A150W, please visit http://www.kessil.com/products/a150_led_aquarium_light.php. About Kessil® Kessil Lighting designs and manufactures innovative LED lighting products for the horticulture and aquarium industries. Kessil is a business division of DiCon Fiberoptics, Inc., a leading 25-year-old technology company in the photonics industry. Using DiCon’s patented high power Dense Matrix LEDâ„¢ platform, Kessil’s products produce a powerful, penetrating stream of light. Each LED chip emits only one wavelength, allowing various spectrums to be created by grouping different types of LED chips together. As a result, Kessil can populate chips with specific wavelengths onto DiCon’s array. For this purpose, Kessil’s research team continues to rigorously search for different spectrum recipes to enhance plant and coral growth. With this constant quest for the best spectrums, Kessil is leading The Spectral Revolution.® For more information on Kessil, please visit www.kessil.com. Advanced Aquarist has also learned additional information not specified in Kessil's press release: The LED outputs approximately 30 watts of light (draws only 36 watts of energy), with a light output equivalent to a 150W metal halide. Dimensions are 4" x 2.48" (length x diameter) ... a very compact housing compared to other LED pendants currently on the market. Coverage is stated as 24" diameter at 12-18" installed height. Suggested retail price is between $257. If Kessil's growlights are any indication, these new aquarium lights should have a street price just north of $200. View the full article

Natural stream flow suits native trout populations best, according to a new study that is the first to examine the impacts of dam operations on threatened freshwater trout. View the full article

The rapid spread of lionfishes along the U.S. eastern seaboard, Gulf of Mexico, and Caribbean is the first documented case of a non-native marine fish establishing a self-sustaining population in the region, according to recent studies. View the full article

The rapid spread of lionfishes along the U.S. eastern seaboard, Gulf of Mexico, and Caribbean is the first documented case of a non-native marine fish establishing a self-sustaining population in the region, according to recent studies. View the full article