JMW

Not sure if your cycle is complete so it is indeed a gamble, especially for the sun coral. They fall under the classification of non-synthetic coral, meaning to say they derive most of their nutrition from feeding. And so comes the questions of balancing water quality & heavier feeding to sustain the coral. One might therefore find them in more established systems. why not stick to photosynthetic corals at the start, once you stabilize your system & get more reefing experience, progress to livestock with more specialized care needs? some starter livestock include GSP, regular zoas, photosynthetic gorgonians, leathers

If the sponge has turned white, the white tissue is where it has died off. Best to remove rather than risk toxins being released into the tank. Was it exposed to air? They can be rather sensitive to air as suggested from Google

Sherman, any thoughts around having two return pumps, considering you have two outlets? Drives stronger flow thru the spin streams & perhaps more importantly introduce contingency

Unused, totally forgot about it. It’s been sitting in my storeroom for months. Expiry is soon, in July letting go for $4. Collection at Buona vista

Considering your corals are LPS, no SPS or clams, which are the typical Calcium sinks, I’d have thought that your regular water changes are able to keep up with the intake. I’m not sure if the Calcium in milk is biologically available to corals & considering the unknown compounds in commercial milk, I’d just do regular water changes

That only works for bryopsis. For regular hair algae, hydrogen peroxide is more effective. So best to ID the algae first before applying any of those solutions. bryopsis has the characteristic fern/frond structure & its branches are thicker than hair algae. Plenty of pics on the net for visualization personal take is I would use snails instead of such chemicals.. biological approach is sometimes the best!

When I was running my IM 10, I used the stock caddy in the inflow chamber, used the ghost skimmer for awhile in the middle chamber. Eventually I filled all the chambers with bacteria king media space is a premium I must say

If you are in it for the long term, invest in refractometer in order to know what your salinity is. I would consider reliable test kits staple equipment too. & pls stop buying more livestock to throw in “to see if your water is ok”. We learn hard lessons as we go in our way in the hobby but one of the most important lesson is that we as hobbyists have a responsibility to the livestock once we buy them from the LFS or other reefers. Damsel or not, it is still a life. Sometimes the gravity of this tends to get away. Staying tuned to when you have some water parameters to share so that all of us here can help you out. lastly, this hobby needs patience......... so cliche but so true

Wow wow wow! That platter of colors!

As above, looking for frags. Pls PM if available thanks

Hi, looking for Pavona frags, pls PM if available

Looks like snails eggs, nothing to worry about if you ask me

Have never dipped clams, just do drip acclimatization & inspect their bases for pest pyramid snails.. after which they can be introduced to your tank!

Komerider is right: if your tank’s parameters are conducive for algae, they will grow as time goes by. however, I do not see any downside in using a soft brush to lightly remove the algae if that gives you peace of mind certainly no need to get rid of the frag.....

I guess a good mechanical filter upstream of the coral chips prevents detritus from building up in the media & creating what might be termed as a ‘nitrate factory’ Anyway nice vol of biomedia there, I’m trying to max out my biofiltration media too for natural nutrient control

Thanks for sharing the grow-out pics! Wow I must say that you are getting some very impressive growth in less than 6mths! Care to share your parameters?

That looks like a 312, so that volume weighs about 170kg. That’s a lot of weight on a smaller cabinet which may not be designed to take such loads.. would recommend to chg to one which is at least the same footprint as your tank & able to take the load, this way the even supports will prevent unbalanced stresses on the tank seams which may develop into leaks long-term. Meanwhile, have to ensure no one places uneven weight on your current setup. JMO & all the best

Looking for this, about 1”-2” mini colony, pls PM if available, thanks!

Acro no longer for sale.. it doesn't look too good after I had to change from chiller to fan on Mon. Will dispose of it instead thanks all for viewing anyway

Interesting, algae will grow too no doubt. Was the flow rate into your IOS drastically affected?

Hey guys, letting go of this mini colony, about 3". Green acro encrusted on rock. There's some GSP on the side of the rock TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW letting go at $15. Deal at buona vista area. Pls PM if interested

Nope I'm dosing CaNO3 too

Hi, I'm plumbing my 28a in a similar fashion too. We will use your photo so it's easier to explain - disconnect the green tubing from the elbow. Connect the green tubing such that it goes into the chiller inlet. The chiller outlet is then connected to the elbow which take returns back to the DT as for size, 12mm fits for me.

Amazing tank man, even with the downsize, your 4g tank still looks good, does not look messy or crowded! Fantastic job man btw can share how you maintain your parameters for such a small volume, especially with them acros in there

Ups